pushrods
#1
pushrods
I was wondering what pushrods I should go with... 5.3 I got a tick performance turbo cam they recommend hardened push rods how do I find out what pushrods I need way too many choices to guess Lol thanks
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Jack
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#9
FormerVendor
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Push rod weight is something that has never concerned me and if you ask any of the top engine builders that I'm certain Bullseye associates with, they'd tell you the same thing.
Most customers at this level do not wish to spend the added cost on larger diameter push rods so I offer the thicker wall 5/16" at a slightly higher cost and as a better alternative to .080" wall 5/16" push rods.
Jack,
Again, cost is a factor and a straight tube 3/8" will not clear in most factory casting or even aftermarket casting LS cylinder heads. I've even had some customers have issues with dual tapered 5/16-3/8 diameter push rods.
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Most customers at this level do not wish to spend the added cost on larger diameter push rods so I offer the thicker wall 5/16" at a slightly higher cost and as a better alternative to .080" wall 5/16" push rods.
Again, cost. If the customer is willing to spend the added money for the 11/32" or larger it is always a plus.
Jack,
Again, cost is a factor and a straight tube 3/8" will not clear in most factory casting or even aftermarket casting LS cylinder heads. I've even had some customers have issues with dual tapered 5/16-3/8 diameter push rods.
Again, cost. If the customer is willing to spend the added money for the 11/32" or larger it is always a plus.
Jack,
Again, cost is a factor and a straight tube 3/8" will not clear in most factory casting or even aftermarket casting LS cylinder heads. I've even had some customers have issues with dual tapered 5/16-3/8 diameter push rods.
Thanks for the info Martin
Jack
#11
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I agree. I was just curious. Weight is always second to stiffness, but it's not totally unimportant. I worked for Visner Engine Development for years (that's how I met Bill and started at Bullseye) so I'm rather familiar with valvetrain theory.
Perhaps my time at VED makes the thought of epoxying PR tubes into the intake ports a lot less scary to me than to others because I'm so used to pushing the limits of cast heads. I'm the kind of idiot who just spent a few months hacking up a pos pro comp and building my own short runner large plenum intake manifold out of the base of it (just used the flanges and TB snout basically) because I didn't want to buy a FAST (I recommend just buying a FAST).
Thanks for the info Martin
Jack
Perhaps my time at VED makes the thought of epoxying PR tubes into the intake ports a lot less scary to me than to others because I'm so used to pushing the limits of cast heads. I'm the kind of idiot who just spent a few months hacking up a pos pro comp and building my own short runner large plenum intake manifold out of the base of it (just used the flanges and TB snout basically) because I didn't want to buy a FAST (I recommend just buying a FAST).
Thanks for the info Martin
Jack
I agree that weight is second to stiffness especially on the lifter side of the valve train. I'd add weight on that side of the valve train any day of the week to gain stiffness. Journal diameter, lifter diameter, push rod diameter(which I always would rather have a larger diameter push rod than a thicker wall) and push rod stiffness are critical to keeping things from flexing in the valve train. The more power the engine makes, the more this becomes a concern. As you most certainly know from working at Visner!
I agree about push rod tubes! There is an Edelbrock casting that a cylinder head shop we use offers. He will add bronze push rod tubes so that up to a 3/4" diameter push rod can be used. I always use the biggest diameter push rod the head can fit and a customer is willing to purchase cost wise.
I would LOVE to see some pictures of that intake manifold you fabricated as it sounds like something right up my alley! LOL
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Jack,
I agree that weight is second to stiffness especially on the lifter side of the valve train. I'd add weight on that side of the valve train any day of the week to gain stiffness. Journal diameter, lifter diameter, push rod diameter(which I always would rather have a larger diameter push rod than a thicker wall) and push rod stiffness are critical to keeping things from flexing in the valve train. The more power the engine makes, the more this becomes a concern. As you most certainly know from working at Visner!
I agree about push rod tubes! There is an Edelbrock casting that a cylinder head shop we use offers. He will add bronze push rod tubes so that up to a 3/4" diameter push rod can be used. I always use the biggest diameter push rod the head can fit and a customer is willing to purchase cost wise.
I would LOVE to see some pictures of that intake manifold you fabricated as it sounds like something right up my alley! LOL
I agree that weight is second to stiffness especially on the lifter side of the valve train. I'd add weight on that side of the valve train any day of the week to gain stiffness. Journal diameter, lifter diameter, push rod diameter(which I always would rather have a larger diameter push rod than a thicker wall) and push rod stiffness are critical to keeping things from flexing in the valve train. The more power the engine makes, the more this becomes a concern. As you most certainly know from working at Visner!
I agree about push rod tubes! There is an Edelbrock casting that a cylinder head shop we use offers. He will add bronze push rod tubes so that up to a 3/4" diameter push rod can be used. I always use the biggest diameter push rod the head can fit and a customer is willing to purchase cost wise.
I would LOVE to see some pictures of that intake manifold you fabricated as it sounds like something right up my alley! LOL
I'm a bad welder. Don't judge me.
There are some in-process pics here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...6255259&type=3
Jack
Last edited by cptinjak; 10-30-2014 at 01:23 PM.
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