Cobra elbows
#1
Cobra elbows
Who's used them? My turbos are sitting right behind my radiator fans and I'm tired of sucking in hot air. These Cobras elbows are probably my my easiest/cheapest solution right now.
Which will cause more of a power loss, Hot air or a tight CLR bend at the inlet of the turbos?
Which will cause more of a power loss, Hot air or a tight CLR bend at the inlet of the turbos?
Last edited by oscs; 07-05-2015 at 03:00 PM.
#3
Cobra elbows
Originally Posted by asubennett
What are your iats?
A/W IC and it won't matter much how hot of air your breathing in.
A/W IC and it won't matter much how hot of air your breathing in.
Nothing crazy. I think they were around 120/130 after a pass in the spring time (75* ambient)
Hey can you PM me your PP info. Ill take one of the MAP sensors from you.
#5
Cobra elbows
Originally Posted by JAX04
Well i gotta think the very small filter in combination with the hot air is going to be far more detrimental then the cobra head elbows with an enormous air filter (given you have the space for a much larger one with the elbow in use)
This is what I've been thinking. With the elbow I should be able to get a filter twice the size of what I got now. Didn't you use to run these cobra elbows?
Also anyone have any concern with them collapsing? I've never held one so I don't now if they are strong or not.
#6
9 Second Club
Hot air is never good. Small filters probably cant be good either, although some do seem to have made great dyno numbers with very small filters on the low mount twins.
You could try and fab a top hat style elbow so it isnt just a complete 90deg turn on its own.
eg this style of thing. It would still allow the compressor to draw from a full 360deg area, even if there is still only a single inlet path. But it would be more compact and easier to fit than a large elbow
Obviously it would need to a clamp on same as the filters
http://www.spaturbousa.com/3-00-x-4-...sition-elbow/p
http://truckwurx.com/1773-6523-thick...owerstroke.jpg
On the other hand, presumably you've been monitoring your intake temps, and dumping a load of meth in ?
So any hot air should largely be taken care of by that whether it seems like the ideal solution or not.
If you look at some of the weedy 3" twisty turny 3" inlet pipes the GTR's use then tiny shrouded filters after that, they still make great numbers.
Your turbos have a 4" fitment, but the wheel itself is only around 64-65mm inlet, so even dropping down to a 3" pipe should pose no real restriction at all if you needed a sharper turn.
You could try and fab a top hat style elbow so it isnt just a complete 90deg turn on its own.
eg this style of thing. It would still allow the compressor to draw from a full 360deg area, even if there is still only a single inlet path. But it would be more compact and easier to fit than a large elbow
Obviously it would need to a clamp on same as the filters
http://www.spaturbousa.com/3-00-x-4-...sition-elbow/p
http://truckwurx.com/1773-6523-thick...owerstroke.jpg
On the other hand, presumably you've been monitoring your intake temps, and dumping a load of meth in ?
So any hot air should largely be taken care of by that whether it seems like the ideal solution or not.
If you look at some of the weedy 3" twisty turny 3" inlet pipes the GTR's use then tiny shrouded filters after that, they still make great numbers.
Your turbos have a 4" fitment, but the wheel itself is only around 64-65mm inlet, so even dropping down to a 3" pipe should pose no real restriction at all if you needed a sharper turn.
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
I always tried to get fresh air into the comp. if possible
I kind of felt being on the suction side bends were not as critical as the boost side
I know if you use something that isn't thick walled it can suck shut if it has a rest., like to small of a filter-used a camera once, crazy stuff in there
I took an old Procharger hat once and welded a nipple on it to use for a tight 90 deg intake-Procharger also makes a variety of ridged 90 deg intake tubings, like for a truck or Camaro
I did gain 2-3 psi by rem. the intake/filter at the track, and it was a pretty decent size filter, so there is some restriction in some cases
I have one of those cobra tubes laying around I never used, forgot what size it was
I kind of felt being on the suction side bends were not as critical as the boost side
I know if you use something that isn't thick walled it can suck shut if it has a rest., like to small of a filter-used a camera once, crazy stuff in there
I took an old Procharger hat once and welded a nipple on it to use for a tight 90 deg intake-Procharger also makes a variety of ridged 90 deg intake tubings, like for a truck or Camaro
I did gain 2-3 psi by rem. the intake/filter at the track, and it was a pretty decent size filter, so there is some restriction in some cases
I have one of those cobra tubes laying around I never used, forgot what size it was
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#8
9 Second Club
bends on the boosted side are less of a concern than the inlet side. The boosted side is being forced round, you only have atmospheric pressure on the inlet side.
But a 4" inlet path for a 64mm compressor, a bend or two really wont make any difference worth worrying about
But where possible, I'd like the biggest filter I could fit.
But a 4" inlet path for a 64mm compressor, a bend or two really wont make any difference worth worrying about
But where possible, I'd like the biggest filter I could fit.
#9
In this instance it sounds like IAT's are not a concern. I would focus on getting the most surface area of filter possible and not so much about if hte air is cool or hot. My .02.
#12
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Are those 5" inlets? If so, jointed dryer duct works really well. I've used it on the last few turbo builds. I glass it afterwards. Very light weight and strong.
You can pull the segments apart and add to them for one longer seamless piece. This also let me eliminate the “crinkled” end pieces. There’s even a rolled bead on the end for your couplers. Made 4 of these so far and they are all holding up great.
This one is hidden in the fender so I didn’t spend any time sanding it or trying to make it look pretty.
If you want it to look more professional you could try just enforcing the ends with glass/resin. Then dipping the whole assy in polyurethane. I think that would turn out slick.
You can pull the segments apart and add to them for one longer seamless piece. This also let me eliminate the “crinkled” end pieces. There’s even a rolled bead on the end for your couplers. Made 4 of these so far and they are all holding up great.
This one is hidden in the fender so I didn’t spend any time sanding it or trying to make it look pretty.
If you want it to look more professional you could try just enforcing the ends with glass/resin. Then dipping the whole assy in polyurethane. I think that would turn out slick.