What are you guys doing to trigger your a2w pump on the street
07-10-2015, 12:17 AM
#1
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What are you guys doing to trigger your a2w pump on the street At the track ill use an overide switch but what are you guys using for street driving? A hobbs switch to activate maybe but shouldnt it run for a couple minutes, what keeps it on? Im using the dominator efi so im sure that opens up the door for whatever. Thanks in advance
07-10-2015, 07:39 AM
#3
I use a 3 position switch for mine that is hooked up to the auxillary output on my eboost2 and set to come on at 4lbs of boost, or I can set it to run all the time.
You wouldn't want it running all the time because if you have ice in the tank the waterflow will eat up the ice. You are only creating heat when you are in boost, so no need to run it all the time either.
You wouldn't want it running all the time because if you have ice in the tank the waterflow will eat up the ice. You are only creating heat when you are in boost, so no need to run it all the time either.
07-10-2015, 07:43 AM
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Im guessing you've never owned an a2w setup before haha
You dont run the pump all of the time because it just heats the water up and boils it. Whats the point of cold water flowing into the intercooler while sitting in traffic or cruising down the highway? There is no point. Many a2w cars dont have the room and simply dont run heat exchangers to aid in cooling.
To answer your question... Lots of guys run the pump off a hobbs switch(set at 1-4psi), on/off switch or a combination of both... 3 position, off/on/hobbs. if you are running dual fuel pumps but only cruise on 1, you can also tie into the circuit for the 2nd pump so when it comes on so does the water circulation pump.
You dont run the pump all of the time because it just heats the water up and boils it. Whats the point of cold water flowing into the intercooler while sitting in traffic or cruising down the highway? There is no point. Many a2w cars dont have the room and simply dont run heat exchangers to aid in cooling.
To answer your question... Lots of guys run the pump off a hobbs switch(set at 1-4psi), on/off switch or a combination of both... 3 position, off/on/hobbs. if you are running dual fuel pumps but only cruise on 1, you can also tie into the circuit for the 2nd pump so when it comes on so does the water circulation pump.
07-10-2015, 08:03 AM
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I have run mine all the time and also occassionally cycled it. See little difference in temps. On warm day water temps will eventually get to 100-110 deg after long driving. I just keep it on all the time. Iats still seem to stay below 100 tho
Turbos get hot even off boost. Touch your compressor housing lol that will heat up the water in the cooler abit.
So i have been just leaving it on while street driving. No ice needed. It will rarely go over 100 deg iat while moving, as turbos take in ambient air and only get heated slightly by the compressor housing.
The pump will NOT heat up the water and boil it. Atleast the Rule series pumps dont. It does nothing to heat the water from what i can tell. If any its miniscule
I got like a 6 gallon system and rule 2000 pump just wired on a switch.
Turbos get hot even off boost. Touch your compressor housing lol that will heat up the water in the cooler abit.
So i have been just leaving it on while street driving. No ice needed. It will rarely go over 100 deg iat while moving, as turbos take in ambient air and only get heated slightly by the compressor housing.
The pump will NOT heat up the water and boil it. Atleast the Rule series pumps dont. It does nothing to heat the water from what i can tell. If any its miniscule
I got like a 6 gallon system and rule 2000 pump just wired on a switch.
07-10-2015, 08:06 AM
#6
If the pump does run all the time, and you're not running a heat exchanger, your intercooler will just pull any extra heat out of the water at idle/cruise speed. So that little bit of heat energy the intercooler pump is putting in should be really insignificant. However when you're using ice/water, I completely understand not wanting to run it all the time.
I have mine come on via trigger wire in the boost controller (or manual pushbutton), and it runs an extra 30 sec or so via a 12v Wolsten Tech time delay off relay.
I have mine come on via trigger wire in the boost controller (or manual pushbutton), and it runs an extra 30 sec or so via a 12v Wolsten Tech time delay off relay.
07-10-2015, 08:11 AM
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The whole purpose of ice in the tank is to prechill the intercooler. You want to keep dumping in ice and running the pump to cycle the water to prechill the entire system before you get to the staging beams. Chiseled recommended 10-15 min of prechilling i think.
I am not to concerned with getting ice temp iats. As long as my iat is between 75-100 i am happy which is pretty good in warm weather. I will put ice in once i get to the track to bring my water temps down to 55-60 deg. Cycle enough the system is cold while i approach the beams after burnout. Been working well.
I have no exchanger on my system. No issues, it just will go alittle over ambient after long drives. Like said mid 80's ambient tank temps approach 100-110 after alittle driving. If leave car in sun parked for awhile it will heat the tank up more but will eventually cool down
I am not to concerned with getting ice temp iats. As long as my iat is between 75-100 i am happy which is pretty good in warm weather. I will put ice in once i get to the track to bring my water temps down to 55-60 deg. Cycle enough the system is cold while i approach the beams after burnout. Been working well.
I have no exchanger on my system. No issues, it just will go alittle over ambient after long drives. Like said mid 80's ambient tank temps approach 100-110 after alittle driving. If leave car in sun parked for awhile it will heat the tank up more but will eventually cool down
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07-10-2015, 10:52 AM
#9
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WOT switch and time delay relay.
Biggest problem with a hobbs is that you have already hit full boost before the cold water has even had time to cool the aluminum back down to ambient temps.
With a WOT switch, it is already cooling as you are still building boost. Not much of a difference, but it can add couple of seconds of cooling in some situations. Also keeps the pump from kicking on if you had part throttle boost issues on the street.
Biggest problem with a hobbs is that you have already hit full boost before the cold water has even had time to cool the aluminum back down to ambient temps.
With a WOT switch, it is already cooling as you are still building boost. Not much of a difference, but it can add couple of seconds of cooling in some situations. Also keeps the pump from kicking on if you had part throttle boost issues on the street.
07-10-2015, 08:45 PM
#10
WOT switch and time delay relay.
Biggest problem with a hobbs is that you have already hit full boost before the cold water has even had time to cool the aluminum back down to ambient temps.
With a WOT switch, it is already cooling as you are still building boost. Not much of a difference, but it can add couple of seconds of cooling in some situations. Also keeps the pump from kicking on if you had part throttle boost issues on the street.
Biggest problem with a hobbs is that you have already hit full boost before the cold water has even had time to cool the aluminum back down to ambient temps.
With a WOT switch, it is already cooling as you are still building boost. Not much of a difference, but it can add couple of seconds of cooling in some situations. Also keeps the pump from kicking on if you had part throttle boost issues on the street.
07-13-2015, 11:27 AM
#12
Assuming your not icing the water down then run it all the time. That way you are effectively getting another HE with a constant supply of cold air.
People seem to forget that at idle / low throttle openings you turbo setup will still be in decent vacum. This means loads of nice cold air (yes it will be cooler than ambient, PV=nRT and all) going across the chargecooler and bring a water temps down.
In fact most OEM setup actually reject more heat into the chargecooler at closed throttle than out the HE!
Obviously if you ice the system down this is a daft idea. Here you want to ONLY run the pump when you have to. At least until your water temps are upto ambient temps.
People seem to forget that at idle / low throttle openings you turbo setup will still be in decent vacum. This means loads of nice cold air (yes it will be cooler than ambient, PV=nRT and all) going across the chargecooler and bring a water temps down.
In fact most OEM setup actually reject more heat into the chargecooler at closed throttle than out the HE!
Obviously if you ice the system down this is a daft idea. Here you want to ONLY run the pump when you have to. At least until your water temps are upto ambient temps.
07-14-2015, 07:14 AM
#13
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People seem to forget that at idle / low throttle openings you turbo setup will still be in decent vacum. This means loads of nice cold air (yes it will be cooler than ambient, PV=nRT and all) going across the chargecooler and bring a water temps down.
