Lateralog

First off let me say this is my first post here. Decade long lurker, but never really had to urge to post, until now. Typically I'm a road course guy, but the 'Mexico racing league' is just getting too big to ignore around my neck of the woods. I'm not a tech genius, in fact you could classify me unfortunately as more of an arm chair qb when it comes to advanced ls tech, but I guess you simply could say I have just enough money, knowledge, and desire to play ball.

SO, my questions is, what LS/blower combo would you go with if you wanted something ideal for roll racing, good to great for cruising, virtually bulletproof at all levels, and would work for occasional long distance cruise trips. This motor is going into a car for which the goal is mostly insane street cruiser. It currently has a stock ls2 with an a&a at 10psi and a blower cam and some minor supporting stuff, and makes 600whp now, but the main thing I LOVE AND WANT TO DUPLICATE as closely as possible: the drivability and docile nature of it. Whatever I seek out in replacement, I want it to be a close to that kind of street manners as possible. No surging, no hickups. Oh and btw, im willing to pay to get what I want. Not OVERPAY, but pay.

So what would you do? What blower? What block? What heads? Would anyone consider Anything other than a centrifugal? If so which? What companies would you go to for a longblock? Shortblock? Erl? I would like to stick with an aluminum block. Might hit the autox course at some point just for fun (1000hp is obviously not going to win any cone carving competitions), so something super efficient in the cooling dept would also be really great. This doesn't have to be a super deep technically involved Conversation, I'm just trying to get a feel for the companies to get in touch with and how to get the ball rolling. And for those who are thinking it, I'm not against a turbo or two in the end, but that's a whole other conversation. Frankly turbos aren't really my thing.

You're welcome to tell me I'm stupid and that this topic has been beat to death, but if you are a junky here and I'm irritating you by not combing through every thread before I ask, at least do the politeness of leaving a link to any similar threads. Lol. And please, for the love of pie, save the hate speeches about roll racing, etc...I have a few automotive hobbies, but just recently I've been hanging out with some gtr guys that I SOOOO want to be faster than between around 50-150mph.

Thanks in advance guys! Looking forward to being an active member here and getting into the more technical aspects of the incredible ls engine!!

DavidBoren

Blower combination for 1000+ horsepower?

Whipple 4.0L is about it. And the one guy that I have heard about with that, went twin turbo.

If you want over 1k horses, just pull the trigger on some exhaust powered blowers, and be done.

Best of luck with your endeavors, but I honestly think that a turbo or two is the real answer for 1000+ horsepower.

I am discrediting centrifugal blowers, though... I consider them the same as turbos, not too mounted superchargers.

I know I'm not much help, sorry.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

Probably a dart block deal with the 1" thick all pro heads to make it reliable with a blower at those power levels. Big Big money for sure.

Do you have a budget?

Lateralog

Tough question. Yes and no. I mean I want to save where I can, but that probably sounds contradictory to this post. Lol. Darts new stuff is sure not cheap, I know that. Is that really the level it has to get to? What kind of drivability do you think I could expect from that dart setup and like a procharger and the mildest cam possible but still making big boost? How badly would heat be an issue if I were cruising late With multiple 'passes' at wot?

Lateralog

Dammit man, You're right. I've been told. I know. The thing that kills me about the turbo(s) is that any REAL track style driving would overheat things fast right? Plus that SURE won't be cheap. Another conversation for another car another day I think.

ajrothm

LSX blocked 427, F1X, 10 rib drive. Ofcourse GOOD thick deck heads, custom cam, 2" headers. I don't know about safely running this combo on a road coarse but it would definitely be streetable and mild enough to make an easy 1k rwhp (more like 1300 capable) and would live a long time if you have everything right and the best systems in place..


As for budget, throw that **** out the window.

Fast, cheap, reliable..... Pick 2.


***EDIT***
I just read you want to stay aluminum block. In that case go with the ERL Super Deck 6 bolt, 427. I'd have ERL build the entire engine for you, one stop shop. Make damn sure to get a Dragonslayer crank and Ultra H Beam rods.. None of this Compstar **** at 1k rwhp with a blower.--Trust me on this. You're looking at a $20k engine here, not counting the blower stuff.

You could probably do twins cheaper and make the same or more power easier.

chuntington101

The C6 guys are pushing well over 1300rwhp with the F1-X and the new ProCharger race intercooler (4.5 inch thick). So the F1-x should be up to the task.

For block, ERL setup has to be on the list. People have pushed much higher HP out of them and they have held together.

Are you looking to get a shop to build it or will you be putting it together yourself?

Also what platform is it? Guessing corvette? C5/6?

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

ERL + F1X

..but I would say twin turbos(T4 housings) would be better suited. You're NOT going to do that many autocrosses in the car(extractor hoods also pull out lots of heat)...and it's primary use is to go straight(rolling...)I would look into a good engine management system with boost/traction control(holley-proefi-motec-etc) to help lay the power down against the AWD vehicles you're going after. Be prepared to spend some loot. Lots of it.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Here is a list I just received from ERL this morning of blocks/short blocks that are available at this time. The short blocks are listed in the top section and the available sleeved blocks ready for assembly are listed in the bottom section. Bob


Short Blocks:

M1 TURBO 427ci Street/Strip Short block (~900HP)– Dry Sleeve System -

9.7:1 CR – Wiseco Pistons, Callies Compstar Rods, Compstar 4.000”Crank. Total Seal Ring Pack

- 1pc LS2 core 24X - ARP Mains



M2 N/A 427ci Street/Strip Short block (~800HP)– Dry Sleeve System –

11.5:1 CR – Wiseco Pistons, Callies Compstar Rods, Compstar 4.000”Crank. Total Seal Ring Pack

- 1pc LS2 core 58Xwith coated bearings Upgrade, ARP Mains

- 1pc LS2 core 24X – ARP Mains

- 1pc LS3 core 58X - ARP Mains



M7 N/A 454ci Street/Strip Short block (~800HP)– Dry Sleeve System –

9.7:1 CR – Wiseco Pistons, Callies Compstar Rods, Compstar 4.000”Crank. Total Seal Ring Pack

- 1pc LSA core 58X - ARP Mains - LS7 Long Snout Crankshaft



V4 N/A 416ci Street (~650HP) – Stock Sleeve Short Block

11.5:1 CR – Wiseco Pistons, Callies Compstar Rods, Compstar 4.000” Crank. ARP Main Studs*

- 2 pcs LS3 core 58X



V2 N/A 408ci Street (~650HP) – Stock Sleeve Short Block

11.5:1 CR – Wiseco Pistons, Callies Compstar Rods, Compstar 4.000” Crank. ARP Main Studs*

- 2 pcs LS2 core 58X



V1 TURBO Street 408ci (~650HP) – Stock Sleeve Short Block

9.7:1 CR – Wiseco Pistons, Callies Compstar Rods, Compstar 4.000” Crank. ARP Main Studs*

- 1 pcs LS2 core 58X

- 1 pcs LS2 core 24X



Sleeved Blocks: – READY FOR ASSEMBLY

Dry-Sleeved (up to 900HP) – Includes Sleeving, Decking, ARP mains, Align hone and Finished Cylinder hone (need pistons here)

- 1pc 4.155” Rough bore only - LS2 core **Hydraulic Bronze Lifter Bushings Upgrade

- 1pc 4.155” Rough bore only - LS2 core

Superdeck 4 Bolt (1,150HP +) - Includes Sleeving, Decking, ARP mains, Align hone, ERL Solid Doweled Billet Main Caps and Finished Cylinder hone (need pistons here)

- 1pc 4.125” Rough Bore ½” HSK Upgrade, includes ARP Hardware LS5.3 core

- 1pc 4.125” Rough bore – LS3 core

Naptime4198

OP, where are you located?

DavidBoren

At 1000hp there is going to be heat, lots of it, too. It doesn't matter if you are using a top mount blower, centrifugal, one turbo, or a set of turbos... Lots of heat at 1k ponies.

If heat is that big of a concern for you, then the centri is probably your best bet. It's not sitting on top of your hot *** engine soaking up all that extra heat. And it's not powered by the hot *** exhaust.

You are going to need an ERL block and thick deck 6-bolt heads, for sure. If you can, I would definitely just have ERL build it for you. Having one shop do it all is the way to go.

Maybe use the LS9 crank and accessories? Or are you after more than a 3.6" stroke?

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

For 1000rwhp reliably you could run a stock 4 bolt block, stock crank, compstar/k1 rods, forged pistons, thick deck heads (LSA/TFS/AFR/MAST etc), baby cam and a turbo(s).

My LS9 car drove very well.... and spooled relatively quickly for an 88mm turbo. It is at 11:1 compression on e85, LS9 block, stock crank, MAST LS3 heads, LS3 stock intake, baby cam. At the 1060rwhp (14psi) level it would've lasted a long time... With racing we turned it up to 20-22psi in 4th/5th gear which I'm guessing is 1400rwhp or so. It snapped the stock crank after probably 100+ hard pulls well above 1000rwhp.

Twin turbos would spool faster, have less backpressure, complicate the plumbing of everything, add more weight/complexity. IMO I love turbos as there is no belt slip, heat soak isn't as big of an issue, boost by gear is awesome, and the car is quiet until I open the cutout.

Design your forced induction system around a large radiator/heat exchanger layout otherwise you are setting yourself up for issues. I run a radiator in the front... and a small unit out back at the rear of the bumper. I can make 0-195mph passes in 80-90* temps and coolant goes to 195-200*.... then on the return road goes back to low 180's. Works perfectly.

IronBlocked

IMO If the main thing you like about the car is how docile it is, you should go turbo, boost adjust on the fly, more power to be made, less stress on the crank, less parasitic loss

Realcanuk

Making 1000 on a well built LS2 block, YSI, good internals and heads, (stay away from compstar cranks with big boost), and the proper, well thought out support systems.

Car has no heat issues, and drives as docile as stock if you control your foot.

This is a daily driver in the summer. If you are planning to race the car often and really beat on it, I would go with a better aftermarket block.

elephantrider

iTrader: (2)

i'd mos def stay away from a centri blower for a build like this and go
twin snails. othewise, call a reputable builder and pull out your wallet,
credit cards and checks.

good luck !

Realcanuk

Not sure what you base this silliness on, but carry on.

DavidBoren

Care to elaborate on this, elephant rider?

Why avoid a centrifugal blower? Boost comes in very similar to a turbo. Just as predictable and controllable. Belt slip can be fixed.

What is it about a centri that you want the OP to avoid

Just idle curiosity, I'm not calling you out, or anything.

elephantrider

iTrader: (2)

ah no worries at all. i've experienced two separate builds with centri blowers,
both on seperate cars, but at that power levels, and they both had belt issues.
one would slip bad, and one would continue to eat the belt due to the main
bracket flexing under heavy pulls. so, out of the 2 builds i've been involved
with both were not reliable, so thats 100% fail rate. i totally understand that
alot of folks DO run that set up with success, but not any that i've been close to,
hence my reservation on centri blowers. i've been around quite a few big hp
twin snail builds and they were ALL effective and reliable, so thats why i sway
away from centris.

not trying to offend anyone, just my very small experiences in a huge sea of
hot rods

Realcanuk

No offence taken and we can understand if you had bad experiences. I know of tons of centri cars that are very reliable. They just have to be done right, like any other build.
As far as it costing more than twin turbos... I dunno. If I can do twins for what my centri setup cost......... I am in !!!

elephantrider

iTrader: (2)

yeah, when your building 1kwhp cars, not sure a few hundred here or there between
the cost of a centri vs snails is really a deal breaker