operating water temp
08-10-2015, 03:28 PM
#1
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operating water temp I have been testing my 6.0 with bw s475, which is non intercooled e85, 10 psi. Just concerned with water temperature. When air temps in 90's my water temp climbed to 210+ when sitting still.
I shut it down and let it cool. I know this is still a safe temp but fan was not
cooling well sitting still. I build a shroud for my 15" fan to help draw the air completely. During next test, temp stayed at 200 or below. I have a 160 thermostat, fan cut on at 180, off at 170. My concern is that I may need more fan. With high air temp, fan never gets temp down to 180. Only have room to add a smaller pusher if needed. My other concern is in temp varying from 170 to 200 would cause fuel afr to change possibly leaning out too much in high boost. I use microsquirt for my ecu. What water temp do you guys like to run your turbo motors at? Should I be concerned with current set up to add a small 8" pusher fan?
I shut it down and let it cool. I know this is still a safe temp but fan was not
cooling well sitting still. I build a shroud for my 15" fan to help draw the air completely. During next test, temp stayed at 200 or below. I have a 160 thermostat, fan cut on at 180, off at 170. My concern is that I may need more fan. With high air temp, fan never gets temp down to 180. Only have room to add a smaller pusher if needed. My other concern is in temp varying from 170 to 200 would cause fuel afr to change possibly leaning out too much in high boost. I use microsquirt for my ecu. What water temp do you guys like to run your turbo motors at? Should I be concerned with current set up to add a small 8" pusher fan?
08-10-2015, 03:34 PM
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megasquirt takes into account that the coolant temp and intake air temp changes. The computer will adjust fuel, you will not lean out because of that. The higher temps will make you more prone to knock though.
My similar setup in my rx7 cools good at an idle with a taurus fan.
Looked at my settings and a datalog: fan comes on at 205, off at 194. Typically runs 188 when cruising according to my logs.
My similar setup in my rx7 cools good at an idle with a taurus fan.
Looked at my settings and a datalog: fan comes on at 205, off at 194. Typically runs 188 when cruising according to my logs.
Last edited by mobythevan; 08-10-2015 at 03:42 PM.
08-10-2015, 04:46 PM
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megasquirt takes into account that the coolant temp and intake air temp changes. The computer will adjust fuel, you will not lean out because of that. The higher temps will make you more prone to knock though.
My similar setup in my rx7 cools good at an idle with a taurus fan.
Looked at my settings and a datalog: fan comes on at 205, off at 194. Typically runs 188 when cruising according to my logs.
My similar setup in my rx7 cools good at an idle with a taurus fan.
Looked at my settings and a datalog: fan comes on at 205, off at 194. Typically runs 188 when cruising according to my logs.
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08-10-2015, 07:09 PM
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I prefer the 187 thermostat, you will have to research and make your own choice. My car cools good mainly because I have a good HOWE radiator, taurus fan and swirl pot to remove steam. I have run with 4 steam ports and 2 steam ports on the same setup and both work well for me. I don't believe switching to a 160 t-stat would cause any problems with my setup so I don't believe it is your root cause.
08-11-2015, 01:24 PM
#10
08-12-2015, 12:01 PM
#11
Sounds like you’re not doing too bad temp wise IMO. If you’re not road racing, a good fan should take care of most LS setups. What fan are you running? Do you know the CFM it flows?
As mentioned above the Taurus fan is pretty kick ***. For a single fan it flows more CFM wise for the money than any other fan I’m aware of. I’d try one first. I’ve yet to find a car I couldn’t keep in check with that fan and a good shroud alone. Use the proper relay with it… when it’s on high it can pull 60+ amps initially. I usually use 2 cheap 35A relays in parallel.
08-13-2015, 04:15 PM
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Fan is 15", rated at 2250 cfm. Space is limited, Taurus won't fit. I know 200 is safe, just don't like that fan cannot reach lower temp to shut off usually. Hopefully 10" pusher will add enough cfm to control.
08-14-2015, 09:05 AM
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I was hoping to try to squeeze 10" pusher and offset it where the two blades won't overlap much. I will have to move my trans cooler and use a smaller one. You can see from pics, I made a shroud but does not perform well enough. I could only have a space of .300 between shroud and radiator. I believe the gap is two small to be effective and restricts flow at higher speed. I noticed an improvement sitting still with shroud, but not enough to cool and turn fan off.
08-14-2015, 05:53 PM
#16
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That sheet of aluminium blocking the core certainly wont be helping anything.
You may call it a shroud...and I guess it does....but it's blocking airflow, not helping it.
You may call it a shroud...and I guess it does....but it's blocking airflow, not helping it.
08-15-2015, 09:58 AM
#17
The fan doesn't need to be centered with a shroud setup. Seems like you could off set the fan to the bottom driverside as much as you need to. Then make the shroud cover the entire core. Cut the taurus fan out of it's shroud, it's not that deep. Many don't plan the rad/fan setup around the turbo kit and it always bites them in the ****.
While a shallow shroud isn't optimal, it is better than nothing when the car is static. As long as it's not overheating as you cruise down the highway it's not hurting a thing IMO. You want that fan to pull across as much of the core as possible when sitting in traffic. Thats where most overheat. Put a couple flaps on it if it has issues at cruise. (most don't)
While a shallow shroud isn't optimal, it is better than nothing when the car is static. As long as it's not overheating as you cruise down the highway it's not hurting a thing IMO. You want that fan to pull across as much of the core as possible when sitting in traffic. Thats where most overheat. Put a couple flaps on it if it has issues at cruise. (most don't)
08-15-2015, 10:27 AM
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I thought of removing the shroud and adding the 10 inch pusher fan offset to the 15 inch fan which would create minimal overlap . 10 inch fan is rated at 1730 CFM . Would this be effective ?
08-15-2015, 11:09 AM
#19
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Having tried a shallow shroud...and not even as shallow as that, I can confirm 100% it hurts cooling ability quite a bit.
Mine was terrible with the shroud about 3/4" from the core. That photo looks barely 1/4"
I would say the puller/pusher covering more of the core sounds like a much better option.
Mine was terrible with the shroud about 3/4" from the core. That photo looks barely 1/4"
I would say the puller/pusher covering more of the core sounds like a much better option.
08-15-2015, 11:45 AM
#20
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My shroud gap is only .300. Wasn't confident that it would work well, but gave it a shot. Hoping to mount extra fan soon. Going to add Howe surge tank as well. I'll update the results.
Thanks
Thanks