Dennis5374

looking to "toughen" up my ls1. I wanna run stock size everything except possibly a dished piston to drop compression so I can throw some boost at it. I plan to use the stock crank. What main and rod bearings, rods,Pistons, rings, will give me the most durability under high boost and what scr should I shoot for? The heads are gonna be stock aside from valve springs , hardened pushrods, lifters, arp head studs , new gaskets, and a turbo cam. I'm currently running a turbonetics 78/68 Benita and plan on upgrading to twins in the spring. I have a 6.0 on stand by but I'd like to see what I can accomplish with the aluminum block first. I've got 4000.00 to spend here and wanna make it count! This is the budget for my motor. I intend on ordering the max effort tick performance tr6060 (good for 900 rwtq and up) and a nice twin disc setup as well. I already have all suspension mods and I've got a nice 9 inch lined up as well. What parts should I run to have a solid foundation for boost, is it possible to make 1000 rwhp on the stock ls1 block and crank, and what are the best parts I can put in it for 3000.00 in the short block and 1000.00 in the cam-lifters-pushrods-studs-springs and gaskets?

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

I think the problem is gonna be your thin sleeves not your rods

Dennis5374

Plenty of guys making close to 1000 rwhp on these blocks, from what I've read. I've debated on going with a darton sleeve setup , as I wanna keep the aluminum ls1 block in the car that it was meant for but right now I'm sticking with stock displacement . I'm just trying to address the weak points of the motor is all. My friend was making 640 for the entire summer with an on3 78mm turbo setup In his ls1 z28 , then sold the ls1 to buy a 9 inch, which was in immaculate condition after a year of abuse , and is now running a junkyard 5.3 in his with a turbo cam, and new rings along with arp head bolts . Cars making 650 once again and taking it no problem . Regardless , I just want a boost friendly compression ratio, and be able to throw enough boost to make 750-800 on the single turbo and have it hold together. Then I'll sell the forged ls1 to fund my 6.0 build and twin turbo setup.

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

Do some more research. The ls1 block is the worst when it comes to boost. If you plan to sell it in a year why not just leave it sbe then sell it

Dennis5374

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369121#/topics/369121?_k=indlqj

ive done research . If it's the worst block out there isn't the point here, the point is what combo will hold together at 1009 hp and when there's cars exceeding that , I tend to think it can't be all that bad . I'm looking for 800 with forged rods and Pistons

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Destroke it with a 4.8 crank/rods with 3.9" aftermarket piston...

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you've got it all figured out.

SteenH

Lmao no kidding

"Help me"
*proceeds to try and help the guy*
Basically tells you to fly a kite

When you trash the ls1 don't come back saying people didn't tell you that it's not a great foundation. 1000 rwhp is the exception, not the rule with that block.

6669camaro

iTrader: (1)

Here's a pic of one of the 3 split cylinders in my ls1 block with forged internals that was making 900whp. And, oh ya, my block was also 3/4 filled with hard bock.

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

But yellowbullet said he could

Dennis5374

where exactly was there any help given? Aside from telling me the sleeves were too thin and the block was garbage? I asked about internals, compression ratios and how to make it work, and what was the max hp a ls1 aluminum block could handle . How bout corvette forum or ... Wait for it ... Ls1tech 😱😱😱 anyways thanks for the info that my platform is **** , and won't take boost 👍🏻 I guess I'll find out for myself huh and see what it's capable of first hand .

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-forced-induction-nitrous/1923961-how-much-power-and-boost-stock-ls1.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1802108-stock-ls1-block-max-hp.html

harlan made over 1000 rwhp on the stock block 🤔

Dennis5374

any idea what caused it? Over boost ? Obviously very high cylinder pressure . Just makes me wonder how Harlan made 1000 at the tires . I'm looking for a lowly 800 on a stock block with forged internals. No matter what , I'm gonna go for it . Was just curious which parts would best suit what I intend too do. I won't be revving past 6000 rpms as my turbo will run out of steam on the big end .

6669camaro

iTrader: (1)

Wide band took a dump on that pass so I think it leaned the motor out real bad. The pass it did that on was 20psi of boost. Now I'm running a 5.3 block bored to 3.904 and having way less issues.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

According to Steve at RED, the designer of the Darton Sleeve.....the LS1 (1997-1998) block is the strongest block of ALL the LSx blocks up until today.....except maybe the LS2 block.

The sleeves however are not going to take 1,000 RWHP very long.

.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Get an LQ9 iron block, bore it to 4.030", get some rods and pistons, keep the stock crank.

Make a beast of a 370ci that will handle 1,000 RWHP easily. I have the same, except a forged 3.825 Callies crank to make a 390ci. I'm gonna make over 1,000 RWHP.

UNDER BUDGET.

.

JoeNova

Which internals?

Short answer: If its forged, it'll outlast the block. Period.

It doesn't have to be a 3 week long discussion.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

ebay. Just call and get the proper rods and pistons made for a 370ci set up. CHEAP.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Calli...5WkUeE&vxp=mtr

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

But Harlan did, harlan did lmao

camarols1

iTrader: (17)

^^^^/THREAD.....


I personally would not even bore to 4.030 unless you had to, at which point I would fill the block.
I ran a new block on mine to keep the cyl walls as thick as possible.
A proper tune is a major consideration in making it live.
DON'T RATTLE IT !!!!

Good luck!

tblentrprz

If 1000rwhp is the goal with no concern for reliability, pick a rod and forged 9:1 piston for your ls1 and go for it. If you want a reliable 1000rwhp, you might consider starting with a block with some sleeve strength. Guys pushing 6.0s sonic check the walls to select a block with the thickest walls knowing that's the weak link. Amazing to know guys are pushing 30-40psi into a SBE 5.3 and sleeves are not splitting. Thicker sleeve iron blocks appear to be the more stable setup. Top it with a 3/4" thick deck head and studs and now you've got a solid setup to rely on with a good tune. Not sure which is the thickest factory head, 317? It with LS9 gaskets are likely a reasonable cheaper alternative.

Maybe folks will share their recipe if you ask the question, "What would you build for the cheapest most reliable 1000rwhp?"