Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hey, i've been reading up and researching more and more still lately and think i've finally come up with a stout combo for myself and made a list of all the stuff i'll need to get going in the right direction. Please critique, add, take off stuff and add some input. Still have a few questions about some of the products. thanks

1.) STS kit w/ (t-70 or t-76 turbo, still unsure on this ATM, TRT FMIC (3" or 4"?), 60lb injectors, walbro, Fuel Pressure guage, Boost a pump, t-bolt clamps, BOV)

2.) Wideband O2 guage, eboost2 (Will i also need a reg boost guage or will this double as both?), Trans Temp guage, 3 pillar pod

3.) 2 Bar map sensor, ditch MAF

4.) (Still up in the air whether to do this ATM or not) Custom cam, chromoly pushrods, springs

With this im shooting for a dyno pull to hit 500 rwhp, then turn it down a bit for 450 ish on the street all day with a Fat tune from W2W (looking to go to them for the tune) The bigger turbo should give me room to grow when i upgrade the block, which i will also upgrade the fuel system at the time as well. Im in MI so weather isnt too intense so what are your thoughts o nthe 3" or 4" intercooler. Thanks fellas!

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Boost referenced FPR
Eboost2 will work as a gauge also
And it looks like your getting into a expensive build so I would consider a ebay intercooler, they run about $200 shipped.

And do you already have hptuners or other software that allows your PCM to run in 2 bar speed desnity mode?

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

well i'll be getting all of this from TRT in a combo stage so the intercooler is included and you can't beat their prices. So i dont need a boost guage and whats a boost referenced FPR, fuel pressure regulator im assuming, what does it do and what do they run for price? Thanks!

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

They run about $130, and they increase your rail pressure 1 pound for each pound of boost.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

will this be okay on stock rails? I dont plan on upgrading rails or lines until i forge the motor later. What do you guys think about size of FMIC and should i do the valvetrain or wait until motor for that as well?

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

I think you should focus on fuel instead of valvetrain. And I don't know how they work with stock rails but I bet a sponsor like thunder or ls1speed could tell you what it takes.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

ok, exactly how necessary is this regulator, would i be okay until i up the boost without one or should i really look into it?

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

bump for the guys getting home from work! Please give your input! Thanks

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Well if you have enough pump it will be fine without, the regulator just makes it easier to tune.

At your boost level its probably not a required piece. When you start getting into bigger 15+psi range it is more crucial.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

ok ah, i think even on forged motor i'll be shoot for 13-15 ish max. Thanks for all your help so far, really appreciate it, your the only one that likes me obviously, lol.

navymitch12

iTrader: (1)

if i am correct the trt stage 3 kit comes with the msd boost a pump....which is what he is talking about

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

oh that is a fuel pressure regulator? I have that on my list up top as its included in the kit, just unsure what it was, lol thanks!

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

anyone else want to critique my set up plan? 3 or 4" FMIC, 70 or 76 turbo? input on doing valvetrain?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

No, entirely different.

FMFPR is a regulator, the MSD BAP boost voltage to the fuel pump. They both will raise fuel pressure with boost, but they not the same at all.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Sounds about good Jonny but I'd look into a stall and tranny cooler as well so your car doesn't feel dead off the line. Hopefully your trans and rear hold up under all that power but everything else looks pretty good.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

You should hit 400 rwhp and 500 rwhp with even the smallest sts turbo at say 5 and 8psi think according to their website. Of course with a bigger t70 or t76 it should be easier more power at same boost level with smaller turbo. Nothing wrong with going bigger turbo just realize you will likely have more lag and it will spool up later than the smaller turbo. This can be a good thing as traction is a problem when turbo cars spool up!!
Most guys say to get at least new valve springs right away.918 seem to be popular choice.
Eboost sounds like nice unit..at these low boost levels a manual or even just gate spring can do the job .At higher levels might be nice to have electronic controller.
Wideband are good idea of course. And of course you need something like hp tuners for no maft tuning but thought sts comes with predator and you can go pretty far on maf tunes.Seen over 700 rwhp.
Your 60 or 65 injectors would give you room to grow and racetronix pump and boost a pump are supposedly good for over 600hp. More I would think with rails and ajustable reg. I am personally going twin pump,big lines and rails and afpr but want to make sure fuel is never an issue. Go 65 to start with and bigger later if needed.
Going bigger injector requires conversion kit.

You should like that sts know two local guys with it. Only thing that I really dont like on it is how loud the oil pump is! They should find a quieter oil return pump!
One thing I like about my system ,gravity return no pump.

Course ground clearance is also not good..stay stock height on the sts.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Well from a lot ive been seeing, you can tuck the sts kit up enough so it isnt the lowest part on the car. Also the roads i drive on arent too bad and i never bottom out anywhere so i think i'll be okay for clearance. I really want the larger turbo for growing applications and understand the lag may be a little more noticeable but a stall will help that out. Now im a little unsure about needing the eboost2. It would be nice to have for later i guess but if its a waste of money at this time then i guess i'll wait on it. If i tear into valvetrain at all to do just springs i mise well do cam and pushrods while i'm there. 3 or 4" FMIC?

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

also forgot to mention... if i do decide to ditch the MAF from the start, i will keep it on so i can drive to the tuner and there i'll ditch the MAF, add the 2 bar map and have them tune for it

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

I still think the 70 will be enough turbo.
If at the end, you are wanting to be in the mid to high 600 hp range, the 3" intercooler will do fine. There is such thing as overkill.
You may get by with the stock spings at 5psi, but it is always a good idea to do better springs. And, its easy to transfer over with both motors out when you get ready to do the motor.

RyanJ

I'd do a 70 and a 4" intercooler, because I dont think there will be a big pressure drop difference between the 3 and 4" cores, and cooler is better.

The boost-a-pump just increases voltage. I'd get a full fuel system (no ******* around). Look in the fueling system and Nasty has a nice package for like $1000 or so. Rails, reg, lines, etc. Its a return-style. A single in-tank w/ a boost-a-pump will be prefect with this setup.

I'd do springs (915's or LS6's should be enough). Its seems you like gauges, but I'd stay away from the wide band personally and just tune it well and log a lot. W/ HPT you should be able to log against a real wideband input (you need to buy the sensor). Also, you have 4 guages and 3 pods...again, I'd ditch the WB02. Log that and watch your FP guage for any drop.

I'd rebuild your trans if its a 4L60E. Also get a big cooler. What about a converter? There are plenty under 5 or 600 that are good.

Also, at your level you probably dont even need the eboost and that will save some cash. it does haev some nice control features and overboost protection, but...well, nevermind..with a 2bar setup I'd constantly be changing boost to suit my particular mood, so a boost controller would be easiest. a **** in the cab would work too though.