25 to Blow
#1
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25 to Blow
OK, I have $25,000 to blow.
I want a SICK street car. Looking at
383 Blown D1
402 Blown D1 or Turbo
408 BlownD1 or Turbo
And 427 Blown F1 or Turbo.
I would prefer the Turbo route. Does anyone have any experience with the 427 route?? Is it a good idea. Is a resleeve worth it.
I need opinions, experiences. Who built it.
The 25 is also to include Rear end, tranny beef up, clutch. All the nessessary things for the amount of power I am looking for to the ground. Which is to exceed 600rwhp. Thanks in advance.
I want a SICK street car. Looking at
383 Blown D1
402 Blown D1 or Turbo
408 BlownD1 or Turbo
And 427 Blown F1 or Turbo.
I would prefer the Turbo route. Does anyone have any experience with the 427 route?? Is it a good idea. Is a resleeve worth it.
I need opinions, experiences. Who built it.
The 25 is also to include Rear end, tranny beef up, clutch. All the nessessary things for the amount of power I am looking for to the ground. Which is to exceed 600rwhp. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Beasst8; 06-01-2006 at 02:46 PM.
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That's probably right. Personnally, I like turbo's...so I'd go with a 346 with a proven kit (read: TTi Race Kit, unless you want A/C).
You wont spend all 25k but the rest you could save for broken parts, fuel, and tires...or just give the balance to me.
EDIT: the other posts got me thinking...lets add.
-348" shortblock - ~$3k? (I've seen stock crank shorts for 2.5k on special, and a W2W one for 3k...although some are closer to 5k)
-Fuel system - 1.5k+
-Turbo kit - ~8k (speed inc. elim is 7.2k, straight from TTi the race kit is probably close to that, others are closer to 5 or 6k, but you may add extras like gauges, a boost controller, etc.)
-HP Tuners - .7k + .5k for a tune - need a laptop too
-12b/9" - 2.2k
-Clutch - 1k
-Susp. (shocks, LCA's, etc.) - 1k
That's $17.9k and I'm sure I'm forgetting alllll kinds of stuff, not to mention tires, broken stuff, actual fuel costs, tuning time, broken parts, little extras, dress up parts, broken parts, etc.
I mean, you can do it cheaper. Taking your motor and putting forged pistons in it will cost you less than 2k, building a turbo kit will cost you probably 4-4.5k if you get some deals (Nine Ball is selling 99% of what you need for 4k), fuel is easily at 1000 at the 600+rwhp level, but you can cut back on extras like an electronic boost controller and stuff like that. And if you are always on street tires, your 10-bolt may hold. Clutchs can be had for 700-800, and you can probably get away with buying a scan tool used for like 250 (Autotap or something) and just getting a lifetime tune from a GOOD tuner for 500 or maybe more depending on dyno-time.
A) I wouldnt **** around on fuel or tuning. Do it right ONCE.
B) go ahead and build your shortblock now (stock crank is fine)
You wont spend all 25k but the rest you could save for broken parts, fuel, and tires...or just give the balance to me.
EDIT: the other posts got me thinking...lets add.
-348" shortblock - ~$3k? (I've seen stock crank shorts for 2.5k on special, and a W2W one for 3k...although some are closer to 5k)
-Fuel system - 1.5k+
-Turbo kit - ~8k (speed inc. elim is 7.2k, straight from TTi the race kit is probably close to that, others are closer to 5 or 6k, but you may add extras like gauges, a boost controller, etc.)
-HP Tuners - .7k + .5k for a tune - need a laptop too
-12b/9" - 2.2k
-Clutch - 1k
-Susp. (shocks, LCA's, etc.) - 1k
That's $17.9k and I'm sure I'm forgetting alllll kinds of stuff, not to mention tires, broken stuff, actual fuel costs, tuning time, broken parts, little extras, dress up parts, broken parts, etc.
I mean, you can do it cheaper. Taking your motor and putting forged pistons in it will cost you less than 2k, building a turbo kit will cost you probably 4-4.5k if you get some deals (Nine Ball is selling 99% of what you need for 4k), fuel is easily at 1000 at the 600+rwhp level, but you can cut back on extras like an electronic boost controller and stuff like that. And if you are always on street tires, your 10-bolt may hold. Clutchs can be had for 700-800, and you can probably get away with buying a scan tool used for like 250 (Autotap or something) and just getting a lifetime tune from a GOOD tuner for 500 or maybe more depending on dyno-time.
A) I wouldnt **** around on fuel or tuning. Do it right ONCE.
B) go ahead and build your shortblock now (stock crank is fine)
Last edited by RyanJ; 06-01-2006 at 03:17 PM.
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Here is a list of things I would consider
HPE 408 Longblock - 7500
XXX Turbo Kit (single) - 5500 w A2A
BigStuff3 - 2200
Fuel System - 1500
Gauges - 700
500 Misc
----------------------
That leaves about 7k left
Moster 12 bolt - 2200
Twin Disc clutch setup with new hydrolics - 1200
Built trans ?? 1200 ??
You will also want some good tires like MT ET Streets and a few other misc things. I hope you can do the labor on this yourself because it leaves you a ton more as far as mods.
HPE 408 Longblock - 7500
XXX Turbo Kit (single) - 5500 w A2A
BigStuff3 - 2200
Fuel System - 1500
Gauges - 700
500 Misc
----------------------
That leaves about 7k left
Moster 12 bolt - 2200
Twin Disc clutch setup with new hydrolics - 1200
Built trans ?? 1200 ??
You will also want some good tires like MT ET Streets and a few other misc things. I hope you can do the labor on this yourself because it leaves you a ton more as far as mods.
#5
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Believe it or not, $25k probly won't be enough for a sick setup if you are including all the drivetrain.
I'm pretty sure the 408 Turbo setup added up to around $25-$30k in parts for the engine,Turbo,fuel system,clutch. That was without labor
I would think a 346 or 360 built to 700hp for that much.
I'm pretty sure the 408 Turbo setup added up to around $25-$30k in parts for the engine,Turbo,fuel system,clutch. That was without labor
I would think a 346 or 360 built to 700hp for that much.
#6
Originally Posted by Beasst8
OK, I have $25,000 to blow.
I want a SICK street car. Looking at
383 Blown D1
402 Blown D1 or Turbo
408 BlownD1 or Turbo
And 427 Blown F1 or Turbo.
I would prefer the Turbo route. Does anyone have any experience with the 427 route?? Is it a good idea. Is a resleeve worth it.
I need opinions, experiences. Who built it.
The 25 is also to include Rear end, tranny beef up, clutch. All the nessessary things for the amount of power I am looking for to the ground. Which is to exceed 600rwhp. Thanks in advance.
I want a SICK street car. Looking at
383 Blown D1
402 Blown D1 or Turbo
408 BlownD1 or Turbo
And 427 Blown F1 or Turbo.
I would prefer the Turbo route. Does anyone have any experience with the 427 route?? Is it a good idea. Is a resleeve worth it.
I need opinions, experiences. Who built it.
The 25 is also to include Rear end, tranny beef up, clutch. All the nessessary things for the amount of power I am looking for to the ground. Which is to exceed 600rwhp. Thanks in advance.
Iron 370 6L PP heads (LQ4) relatively mild cam (iron block will handle way more boost than alum if you decide to go nuts down the road)
D1SC Procharger kit with SDCE setup and FMIC
Dual walbro internal pumps hotwired or sumped tank with dual externals in parallel
BIG **** injectors, boost referenced AFPR
12 bolt with 33 spline and posi, HD driveshaft
Spec 5i clutch or twin disc and ripper shifter
1 3/4 headers/catback etc
great tuning
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#8
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OK, sounds good so far, keep them coming. I am not too much worried about the 25K. I can get more. Just need some proven combos. With big cubes and turbo preferably (not against blowers though). But I did just see a 408 with the D1 that kicked out 632RWHP. How about the F series Prochargers. Worth it?? Oh and trying to stay on Pump Gas. HEHE Thanks
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The problem with any big cube build is the shear volume of air that it puts out. It necessitates larger head units (blowers), larger headers and exhaust, WAY more fuel, etc. Same with a turbo combo, a 408 means you're looking at a 76GTS as the smallest you can go before getting CRAZY backpressure issues and even then, that's not recommended...really it should be a PT88 at least. But for a big cube motor, I'd choose a T6-based turbo which means custom kit either home-made or done by a shop ($$$$$$$). You can make 1000rwhp with a 346 and the right turbo. BUT, on pump gas your best bet is to use big cubes....for you, I think you should do a 402/408 with a D1SC with a SDCE 8-rib set up. Easy-Peasy.
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A fellow vette guy is running the STS twin turbos on a 402 and is making a sick 809.2rwhp and 797rwtq on 93 pump gas. The basics for the engine are:
LS2 402 9.5:1 Cr
MTI G1 cam customized to 115 LSA
MTI 2R heads
STS twin turbos at 12psi...
LS2 402 9.5:1 Cr
MTI G1 cam customized to 115 LSA
MTI 2R heads
STS twin turbos at 12psi...
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how much power could a D1 make on a 408, wouldnt it be able to make more power on less cubes? Seems all teh fastest blower cars are smaller cubes like 346??Im still deciding on a shortblock myself and my procharger should already be in the mail!
So with a D1 and good heads and all supporting mods, what would dominate on the track, 346 or 408? I still havnt gotten a clear answer on that Q. Seems to not be a simple answer.
So with a D1 and good heads and all supporting mods, what would dominate on the track, 346 or 408? I still havnt gotten a clear answer on that Q. Seems to not be a simple answer.
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I have heard that the D1 does make awesome power on the smaller cubes. If thats the case I guess I can go with an F1 Series Procharger. Anybody have this or heard of this on a 408?? There is a 408 D1 TA with 5LBS Dynoing 632 RWHP and 565 RWTQ not too bad. I would rather under work a 408 than over work the stock motor. Does that make sense??
Last edited by Beasst8; 06-01-2006 at 06:28 PM.
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Maybe this will help you...
I spent about 12k for: Turbo Kit, Fuel, Tuning, 12-bolt, Spec 3, ALL suspension (LCA's, Torque arm, PH rod, Subframes, etc.), valve springs/pushrods, install/labor/tuning...
I'm planning to spend 10k more this Chirstmas on: T76 Turbo, Turbo cam, 8.5 CR set-up (stock crank, 6.0 heads, good boost pistons, rods, head studs), meth-injection, vent/catch can set-up, rear end gears swap (something lower), probably a better clutch, installs labor, and tuning. etc Basically a built up 346... (93 octane high 600's low 700's goal).
If I had 25k or more in one shot, though, I'd DEFINITELY buy a better block/stroker with more cubes...
I spent about 12k for: Turbo Kit, Fuel, Tuning, 12-bolt, Spec 3, ALL suspension (LCA's, Torque arm, PH rod, Subframes, etc.), valve springs/pushrods, install/labor/tuning...
I'm planning to spend 10k more this Chirstmas on: T76 Turbo, Turbo cam, 8.5 CR set-up (stock crank, 6.0 heads, good boost pistons, rods, head studs), meth-injection, vent/catch can set-up, rear end gears swap (something lower), probably a better clutch, installs labor, and tuning. etc Basically a built up 346... (93 octane high 600's low 700's goal).
If I had 25k or more in one shot, though, I'd DEFINITELY buy a better block/stroker with more cubes...
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I was wondering about GMR Speeds Twin Turbo Kit. I got numbers and stuff, but does anyone have ET's with the kit. I figured that their 6.0L Twin kit for 16,000. That has the fuel system included I believe, with 732rwhp and 740 rwtq not too shabby. I dont figure the drivetrain will be more than 9K.
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Originally Posted by Beasst8
I did just see a 408 with the D1 that kicked out 632RWHP. How about the F series Prochargers. Worth it?? Oh and trying to stay on Pump Gas. HEHE Thanks
Anything over 370 cubes I would go with turbo all the way. I like the built 402 with a sick cam and high flow heads set on a T-66 to a T-88. Put 900+rwhp down with something along those lines with supporting cast of fuel mods and such.