JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Anyone tried these The boys from Dallas tell me the TR6'S are junk and this is the plug to run.

R5671A-8 = step 8 heat rating

Just wondering what you guys think about these.

R5671A-8


tr6

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Ttt

stevieturbo

I think you would need to using some serious boost to warrant the use of an 8 heat range plug, regardless of plug type.

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

its not boost..its power level.

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

Sure his car aint as fast or make as much power...Its about being safe.

Anytime you can pull heat from a combustion chamber, its ALWAYS a good thing.

Willem @ Fuel Injection Concepts

iTrader: (2)

The R5671A's use a gasket seal thoguh,, the TR6 a flare.. i dont think they'll seal in an ls1 head, will they?

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Im not sure. Thats the first thing I noticed. But that pic could be wrong and just a reference. Im interested to order some and just test the fitment out on some stock heads I have laying around.

stevieturbo

I wouldnt run the same heat range plug in a 4 cyl 2.0 car making 700bhp, as I would in a 427 V8 making 700bhp.

Boost is a big factor.


I tried fitting a gasketed plug into an LS1 head a while back... pics taken from a previous post I made.

I was in the garage today, and had a look at my old 853 castings. Thought this might be useful.
Stock LS1 plug recess is basically flat, with a very slight taper.


Here is a TR6 plug, tightened into that plug hole, as viewed from combustion chamber.


And I was quite surprised when I tried the PFR7B "gasketed" plug ( OE Subaru fitment ) into that same hole. I didnt actually think it would have fitted as well as it did, otherwise I would have just used these plugs in my own engine ( well new ones )


There's actually very little difference in depth. The gasketed plug doesnt protrude just quite as far, but very little in it TBH.
I couldnt say if thats a good thing or a bad thing.

I'm going racing this weekend, after that I will be fitting PFR7B plugs into my engine.

You can go too cool. Running too cold a plug will result in plug fouling.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Dam I thought 650 was stout Oh well. I agree and I would really like to try them out. I just ordered a set. So we will see if they will even seat in a stock LS based head first

Well I see the pics now. Hmm Im going to link the Dallas boy crowd to this and see there replies!

Willem @ Fuel Injection Concepts

iTrader: (2)

its not just a reference picture, i haev a set at teh shop.. i just tried screwing them into a head though and it looks like there is very little difference in depth

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

SUre they will...Ive been running them with the gasket style to pull the tip out of hte head the thickness of the gasket even more...You could run the taper seat style as well but I like to run the gasket style.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

This is very little difference. I just called a NGK contact we get our plugs from.

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

Plug fouling is a given...But thats also something that can be tuned as well...Which is what he was told on LS2...install the colder plugs and adjust some tuning of them.

what you guys dont understand is that even though the procelain gets recessed, sure its a cooler plug. BUt when you check the gap when it comes out of the box, it brings some of the heat back with such a tight gap. When i say heat, its more of an INTENSE and DENSER spark. I wouldnt use your Subby plugs in the LS1. Id use exactly what part number is mentioned. When you tighten the gap on any plug you get a more intense spark so its not as easy to blow out as you would with a wider gap on FI or NOS applications.

Some people really need to stick to reading and observing the boards while the rest are out on the tracks going fast.

If the gasket makes you feel uncomfortable then try the NGK R5724-8's or 9's or whatever. They are a tapered seat non-projected tip. Projected tip plugs are for economy. IE TR6's etc. In a racing application we arent after economy. We are after power.

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

Im one of the Dallas boys.

650 isnt much honestly. I made that with a stock longblock with a cam and some juice.

DarkblueTA

Never had any trouble with my TR6's

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

A few thousandths mean alot when setting up tolerances and clearances on alot of things. It can be the deciding factor in catastrophic failures. But thats something I thought you should know already.

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

sure they will run and work...but the point is there are safer alternatives. I dont like hot spots on my pistons. Cooler pistons last longer and less change of catastrophic detonation.

stevieturbo

Just because a part number is specified for a particular engine, doesnt mean it wont work on other engines. The PFR7B whish is basically just a double platinum 7 heat range, is a pretty good plug, and Ive used it on several different engines ( Non LS1 of course ).

Ive also run 8 heat ranges on some engines ( non LS1 ), and no matter how much tuning, during normal driving etc ( yes, they are all road cars ) you get plug fouling.
That said, an MSD DIS/CDI system usually sorts that.

As for a gasketed plug making anyone feel uncomfortable.... The LS1 is the first engine Ive ever used, that DIDNT run a gasketed plug.
Tapered seat plugs are virtually non-existent here in the UK.

I'd really like to see some results, back to back on a decent motor, with simply a plug change, to see what effects it might have.

I honestly believe power difference would be negligable on my own engine between a TR6, and a similar 7, or indeed 8 heat range plug. Unfortunatley its not an experiment I can easily manage. I'd have to take a ferry and drive at least 200 miles to get to a decent dyno.

The cooler plug may make things a little safer, and less chance of a plug melting, but thats about it..

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

Bottom line is...run non-projected style tips to make more power.

R5671A-7, 8, 9, 10

R5724-8's are a projected tip...

When I read my plugs and choosing for a particular application, I read the threads on the body of the plug to see where the heat is at...When you have heat that is present at the tip of the plug, (first few threads) its too hot of a plug to make efficient power. I try to get heat marks (discoloration on the threads) on ALL the threads. When you get that in check then you can start the tuning on the plugs with gaps, indexing, fuel and spark tables, etc.

Pull a TR6 and you will notice the heat is concentrated at the tip of the plug. Its more prone to detonation then say the R5671A-8's or 9's because they dissapate heat through the body of the plug...Can anyone tell me what a spark plugs duty is to do?
They have two functions.

SPARK PLUG BASICS:
The spark plug has two primary functions:

* Ignite air/fuel mixture
* Transfer heat from the combustion chamber

The last one is the MOST important and should be paid very close attention to.

Notes taken from NGK's website on the theory im trying to get across.

...."Spark plugs carry electrical energy and turn fuel into working energy. A sufficient amount of voltage must be supplied by the ignition system to spark across the spark plug's gap. This is
called "Electrical Performance."

The temperature of the spark plug's firing end must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. This is called "Thermal Performance", and is
determined by the heat range selected.

It's important to remember spark plugs do not create heat, they only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger
by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling
system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to
dissipate heat.

The rate of heat transfer is determined by:

* The insulator nose length
* Gas volume around the insulator nose
* The materials/construction of the center electrode and porcelain insulator...."

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

PLATINUM Is a NO NO in any performance aspect. Cooler chambers make more power. Thats the bottom line. Do you index your plugs? Probably not or youd understand the concept behind running the cooler plugs.

You can run a gasket seat on a tapered seat head...You just cant run a tapered seat plug on a gasket seat head.