STS Oil pump Question
#1
Staging Lane
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STS Oil pump Question
Twice now in the past month the 15amp fuze has blown on the STS Oil pump. It seems that when the pump ramps up the fuze pops. Both times it poped I was just getting to full boost. I was wondering if this means the pump is going or if maybe my racetronix fuel pump which I think are on the same power source is poping it? Is a 15amp fuze to small?
Any help would be great.
I'm only looking for help not STS bashing.
Any help would be great.
I'm only looking for help not STS bashing.
#2
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Hmmm... are you talking about the gold resistor that comes with the STS kit for the High/Low flow of the oil pump? Or a fuse that you have inline with the power source for the pump?
My oil pump (the upgraded one) was too much for the fuse that was there... if you have more then your fuel pump on it, you may have the right idea... too much draw.
My oil pump (the upgraded one) was too much for the fuse that was there... if you have more then your fuel pump on it, you may have the right idea... too much draw.
#3
Staging Lane
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yeah its the 15 amp in-line. I'm just wondering if a 20 amp would be safe. Is your up-graded pump an aftermarket or the new pump that runs on high all the time from STS?
#4
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I would say that with both the fuel pump and oil pump on the same fuse, your overloading it. The fuel pump should be on its own relay and fuse.
The only time I have ever blow the oil pumps fuse, it when it was REALLY cold here (-15*) and oils was to cold and hard to pump in low speed.
The only time I have ever blow the oil pumps fuse, it when it was REALLY cold here (-15*) and oils was to cold and hard to pump in low speed.
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what is the reason that they fail? Do you have any info on what the upgrade pump is? My alrm is going off at higher rpms. I need a better pump, but I do not have a good relationship STS, so I can't get it from them.
Tony
Tony
#7
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Originally Posted by GR33N GoblinM6
you do know those STS pumps are not factory rated to flow oil right? They are boat bildge pumps they get from a company in FL who imports them from Europe. I have the website for the company saved at work, and there is a reason they fail, or over heat the resistor.
The resister is there cuz they don't need the extra flow in nonboost conditions and it makes them quieter.
Tony
As far as the buzzer going off at high RPM, that an easy fix. I don't think you need more pump. The pressure switch is just too sensitive. Just screw the pressure switch on the pump down 7 or 8 turns or until the buzzing stops, that will take it from a 1 psi switch to a 3-4 psi switch. It will be fine. I screwed mine all the way in and backed it off 3/4 of a turn. Probable a 5 psi switch now.
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#9
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Originally Posted by Devil's Due
Twice now in the past month the 15amp fuze has blown on the STS Oil pump. It seems that when the pump ramps up the fuze pops. Both times it poped I was just getting to full boost. I was wondering if this means the pump is going or if maybe my racetronix fuel pump which I think are on the same power source is poping it? Is a 15amp fuze to small?
Any help would be great.
I'm only looking for help not STS bashing.
Any help would be great.
I'm only looking for help not STS bashing.
#10
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yes they do fail.. more than you know.. not many people will talk about it, because they just dont come on this forum and say it, or are not using one on an Fbody..
I would never use a boat bildge pump to flow hot oil when its ment to flow sea water. I would use the same pump GMperformance uses in their C5/C6 T56 cooling system they sell on GMpartsDirect (the kit retails for $859). It is rated to flow oil based liquids and can withstand 300* temps. I beleive the same pump can be had for $179. I will look for the link for it.
to answer the question of the "STS upgraded pump" its just a slightly bigger motor pump on the same pump, you can tell buy looking at the bottom of the pump, the gold motor piece is slightly larger and sticks out a little further than the standard one..and yes, its still a boat pump with an STS sticker on it.
I would never use a boat bildge pump to flow hot oil when its ment to flow sea water. I would use the same pump GMperformance uses in their C5/C6 T56 cooling system they sell on GMpartsDirect (the kit retails for $859). It is rated to flow oil based liquids and can withstand 300* temps. I beleive the same pump can be had for $179. I will look for the link for it.
to answer the question of the "STS upgraded pump" its just a slightly bigger motor pump on the same pump, you can tell buy looking at the bottom of the pump, the gold motor piece is slightly larger and sticks out a little further than the standard one..and yes, its still a boat pump with an STS sticker on it.
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Oh yes, oil pump issues. Been there and done that, unfortunately.
Here's my $0.02.
1. Definetly don't run the racetronix pump and oil pump on the same fuse. Way too much power draw.
2. The gold resistor that gets stupid hot is to cut down on the voltage to the STS pump when not in boost. As boost is produced, the relay (black box...2 of them near the gold resistor under the hood) reeives a signal from the pressure switch (round metal piece that's plugged into the vacuum source near the PCM. This signal under boost flips the relay to bypass the resistor and the pump goes to high pressure. You can check this circuitry and make sure it's not failing by jumping the wire as described in the STS instructions. This will clue you in that the circuit is good.
3. Check the actual electrical connectors on the pump. The slide connectors are not a great design. I ended out soldering all mine. Much better.
Your problem is probably electrical. Be sure to clean the oil from your intake pipes too after finding the cause. The oil buzzer sounds because when the pump fails (overpressurizes) the pump is failing to scavange oil from the turbo and retun it to the engine. With no where to go, the excess oil seeps past the floating rings in the turbine and compressor case and seep into the intake and exhaust pipe. Once oil's in the intake pipe, it gets blown forward and onto the MAF, which makes the MAF read stupid and the car runs like a$$.
Last but not least....my pump's worked like a champ for me for over a year. (Not the pumps fault I had a bad electrical connector to it in the past). The majority do not have their pumps fail. People aren't overly shy to bash something on this forum, so if it was a major defect there'd be a ton of posts on it. If my pump ever fails, then now I know I can get a Mocal one. Good info.
Hope this helps you out. Good luck
Here's my $0.02.
1. Definetly don't run the racetronix pump and oil pump on the same fuse. Way too much power draw.
2. The gold resistor that gets stupid hot is to cut down on the voltage to the STS pump when not in boost. As boost is produced, the relay (black box...2 of them near the gold resistor under the hood) reeives a signal from the pressure switch (round metal piece that's plugged into the vacuum source near the PCM. This signal under boost flips the relay to bypass the resistor and the pump goes to high pressure. You can check this circuitry and make sure it's not failing by jumping the wire as described in the STS instructions. This will clue you in that the circuit is good.
3. Check the actual electrical connectors on the pump. The slide connectors are not a great design. I ended out soldering all mine. Much better.
Your problem is probably electrical. Be sure to clean the oil from your intake pipes too after finding the cause. The oil buzzer sounds because when the pump fails (overpressurizes) the pump is failing to scavange oil from the turbo and retun it to the engine. With no where to go, the excess oil seeps past the floating rings in the turbine and compressor case and seep into the intake and exhaust pipe. Once oil's in the intake pipe, it gets blown forward and onto the MAF, which makes the MAF read stupid and the car runs like a$$.
Last but not least....my pump's worked like a champ for me for over a year. (Not the pumps fault I had a bad electrical connector to it in the past). The majority do not have their pumps fail. People aren't overly shy to bash something on this forum, so if it was a major defect there'd be a ton of posts on it. If my pump ever fails, then now I know I can get a Mocal one. Good info.
Hope this helps you out. Good luck
#13
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Originally Posted by GR33N GoblinM6
yes they do fail.. more than you know.. not many people will talk about it, because they just dont come on this forum and say it, or are not using one on an Fbody..
I would never use a boat bildge pump to flow hot oil when its ment to flow sea water. I would use the same pump GMperformance uses in their C5/C6 T56 cooling system they sell on GMpartsDirect (the kit retails for $859). It is rated to flow oil based liquids and can withstand 300* temps. I beleive the same pump can be had for $179. I will look for the link for it.
I would never use a boat bildge pump to flow hot oil when its ment to flow sea water. I would use the same pump GMperformance uses in their C5/C6 T56 cooling system they sell on GMpartsDirect (the kit retails for $859). It is rated to flow oil based liquids and can withstand 300* temps. I beleive the same pump can be had for $179. I will look for the link for it.
If these things where prone to failing, BELIVE me there's a LOT of guys on here (kind of like you ) That would bash the **** out of them ALL the time. Even more then they already do