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Here is my setup. Completely boxed in the upper support and cleaned up the radiator support with filler. Came out great. The last picture we had just set the turbo in the car to see how it looked. Also, s484 using the Huron Speed t6 kit.
What all was involved in making it fit the way yo have it? did you have to cut the bottom support at all?
My radiator just took a crap on me and since I'm probably going boosted in the future I'm going to go ahead and stand up my radiator. I have a few questions:
Can I use the griffin 25241 radiator for use in daily driving and autocross? 90 degrees is highest for summer heat
Can I use my stock fans for autoX/Daily driving or will I need to get different fans? If so puller or pusher? If not how do I incorporate my stock fans?
Thats how I did mine with the normal radiator fan setup a lot of the guys use. Problem I have at the moment is the BW frames are large and the radiator outlet is right next to my turbo.. have to figure out what to do about that yet. Any advise!? Haha.
Anyone use the 1-25241-X instead? I have the same issue as BC178 and this was going to be my way to solve it by putting both the inlet and outlet on the same side.
Anyone use the 1-25241-X instead? I have the same issue as BC178 and this was going to be my way to solve it by putting both the inlet and outlet on the same side.
I'm debating just mocking up a 90* bend there and see what it looks like.
Huron speed said they do 90° elbow and run the hose along the radiator and over to pump. Going to have buddy weld me a 90 close as he can to radiator and see how much room I have from there. Hope helps others.
Could a smaller radiator be used and hence angled forward like the opposite rake it is from stock? Cars like the FORD GT and the GTM have the radiator tipped forward to create space.
Is there room underneath the headlights for dual superchargers mounted facing forward?
I wanted to do a cog belt setup in my car and obviously the radiator has to be pushed way forward and angled forward to make room for the belt and pulleys.
Also, if the hood latch is gone, and the windshield washer tank are gone, is it really necessary to cut the front frame? I was trying to figure that out because it looks like the hood latch support brace unbolts pretty easily.
Here is my radiator setup. I had issues with it because of the location of my turbo. I needed my radiator pretty far forward. The Griffin radiator is a few inches to wide to fit between the head light mounts so I inverted it some like the stock one.
I made some L brackets and welded them to the frame and put rubber pads on them to support the bottom and I will have tabs weled to the top of the radiator that extend over the core support that I can bolt down. This is the most room you can get with the 27.5x15.5x3 radiator with out moving/removing the headlight mounts and completely cutting out the center support. I will have 2 pusher fans and im pretty sure this will interfere with the hood latch so I may have to get rid of the hood latch and put in hood pins.
Here is my radiator setup. I had issues with it because of the location of my turbo. I needed my radiator pretty far forward. The Griffin radiator is a few inches to wide to fit between the head light mounts so I inverted it some like the stock one.
I made some L brackets and welded them to the frame and put rubber pads on them to support the bottom and I will have tabs weled to the top of the radiator that extend over the core support that I can bolt down. This is the most room you can get with the 27.5x15.5x3 radiator with out moving/removing the headlight mounts and completely cutting out the center support. I will have 2 pusher fans and im pretty sure this will interfere with the hood latch so I may have to get rid of the hood latch and put in hood pins.
What did you end up doing with your wire bundles that ran across the core support? I had to replace my griffin and decided to cut up the support like you did so I dont have to remove my turbo to remove the radiator.
i know this thread is old. i see some of you actually responding which is awesome. i recently got ahold of a huron v2 t6 kit and am running an s4 frame borg turbo but the radiators you guys are using are not dual pass. the upper hose is literally in front of the turbo housing and i dont want to run a 90 right there. the dual pass that was posted is 400$ apparently on summit. listed as a circle track radiator. 27.5 x 15.5 and 3" thick core. The other ones you t4 huron guys use are 173$. crazy price difference.
i know this thread is old. i see some of you actually responding which is awesome. i recently got ahold of a huron v2 t6 kit and am running an s4 frame borg turbo but the radiators you guys are using are not dual pass. the upper hose is literally in front of the turbo housing and i dont want to run a 90 right there. the dual pass that was posted is 400$ apparently on summit. listed as a circle track radiator. 27.5 x 15.5 and 3" thick core. The other ones you t4 huron guys use are 173$. crazy price difference.
I'm in the process of getting mine in was wondering what yall are doing for the steam ports? Drill a hole and tap for a barbed fitting in the radiator?
Last edited by Turbo306Fox; 03-02-2017 at 02:46 PM.
I'm in the process of getting mine in was wondering what yall are doing for the steam ports? Drill a hole and tap for a barbed fitting in the radiator?
10-09-2015, 03:41 PM
