Puller fan or mist spray for intercooler...anyone tried this?
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Puller fan or mist spray for intercooler...anyone tried this?
My car is not digging the advent of summer in the south. My IAT's were always in the low 90's in Hawaii. Today I was averaging 106. On the interstate they're good (low 90's), but in stop and go traffic they climb quick. Outside temp was in the low 80s today.
So, thought of installing either an electric puller fan behind the FMIC or possibly a pump/mister in front of the FMIC. Wondering if a fan would impede air into the radiator. Also wonder if anyone makes a mister kit for the FMIC.
Input appreciated
So, thought of installing either an electric puller fan behind the FMIC or possibly a pump/mister in front of the FMIC. Wondering if a fan would impede air into the radiator. Also wonder if anyone makes a mister kit for the FMIC.
Input appreciated
#2
You could make a mister kit with a washer pump and 2-4 nozzles - if you use 50/50 water alky mix it evaporates quickly. You could also consider a pusher fan (or fans) in front of the IC. Also NOS makes a spray bar for IC's that you could push nitrous (waste of money) or CO2 (cheaper but needs special tank) through to cool the IC.
I'd probably do the water/alky spray thing myself, or go straight to an alky injection kit.
Jim
I'd probably do the water/alky spray thing myself, or go straight to an alky injection kit.
Jim
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You could make a mister kit with a washer pump and 2-4 nozzles - if you use 50/50 water alky mix it evaporates quickly. You could also consider a pusher fan (or fans) in front of the IC. Also NOS makes a spray bar for IC's that you could push nitrous (waste of money) or CO2 (cheaper but needs special tank) through to cool the IC.
I'd probably do the water/alky spray thing myself, or go straight to an alky injection kit.
Jim
I'd probably do the water/alky spray thing myself, or go straight to an alky injection kit.
Jim
Agai, thanks for the input.
#7
try meth injection first. after that then spray the intercooler with a fine mist of water. its a tried and very well tested way to resudce intake temps. the rally guys have used it for YEARS now. also the truck racers do a similar thing!
another solution (ok its stupid but i got to tell you lol) is to fab a cage on in front of your intercooler and fill it with ice! its what the 911 turbo guys have been known to do.
Cheers
Chris.
another solution (ok its stupid but i got to tell you lol) is to fab a cage on in front of your intercooler and fill it with ice! its what the 911 turbo guys have been known to do.
Cheers
Chris.
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What Bob said. I drop at least 30 F below ambient temp by spraying 100% methanol with an Alkycontrol kit... boost comes in, temps go down (time in seconds on the x-axis):
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Thought of meth Bob, but the problem isn't going WOT, the IAT's are getting pretty hot puttering about town part-throttle. I'm not making boost in this area, so boost referenced meth switch wouldn't trigger. I could install meth and manually control it........always an idea.
Once the car's up to speed (50+mph) temps are acceptable.....it's the 0-40mph range that's really heating things up.
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My IAT's were always in the low 90's in Hawaii. Today I was averaging 106.
the IAT's are getting pretty hot puttering about town part-throttle.
What are the IAT's at WOT? Thats what you should be concerned about.
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superado just went thru this last weekend on his procharged 5.3. IATS are fine going down the track but crazy high in the stagin lanes and burnout area cause everything gets so hot. this weekend we went to track on friday night. it was cool out....got a best time of 13.5x. went to track 2 days later with NO changes...15 degrees higher ambient temp....misted down the i/c...s/c...and pipes with a bug sprayer and tap water....picked up to a 13.2x and 2.5 mph with NO other changes. He does have a meth kit with a small jet but IATs STARTING close to ambient made a ton of difference.
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causes the car to pull timing in city traffic
I see what you're saying regarding "starting" ambient temp of the intake charge, and cablebandit's info is right to the point.
#15
I have noticed that my off-boost IAT's can get somewhat high, like what you are seeing, because at off-boost my motor is breathing through the Mondo Bypass and pretty much bypassing the FMIC and its tubing. Then when I get on boost, the bypass closes and I immediately see my IAT's dropping like 25 degrees in 10 seconds as everything gets routed through the FMIC. Is this similar to your setup?
I don't get any pinging on light throttle (off-boost) so I never have worried about the IAT's then.
Jim
I don't get any pinging on light throttle (off-boost) so I never have worried about the IAT's then.
Jim
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...is it fair to say that it's the PCM that's causing the problem and not your IAT's? Isn't it possible to modify the IAT table to tell the car to stop pulling timing while you're cruising? This assumes that normal driving conditions allow the driver to be more tolerant of conditions that at WOT would be contributing to detonation.
I see what you're saying regarding "starting" ambient temp of the intake charge, and cablebandit's info is right to the point.
I see what you're saying regarding "starting" ambient temp of the intake charge, and cablebandit's info is right to the point.
As for tuning....yes, I could raise the IAT timing retard threshhold higher, but I've already raised it to the 105ish range from the stock values of 98ish or so. In the winter in Va and the whole time I lived the Hawaii the car never saw IAT's above 102. If I raise the IAT timing threshhold to 115+ I have to consider the increased liklihood of burst knock/detonation (vs the power loss from timing being pulled.) I still have the stock shortblock, so being conservative is a must till I get $$ for the forged setup.
The engine's not knocking at part throttle when IAT's are hot. I'm just trying to keep the "ideal" of being w/in 10-15 degrees of ambient temp at all times on my setup. I also hate going WOT from a high IAT. Tends to give me +3 to +5 positive fuel trim adding in the WOT cells, which results in too much gas (reduced power.) Don't have this prob when the IAT's are under 100*