RobsZ28

iTrader: (3)

Ok I've had a problem starting my car since beginning of April. I have a company truck so the car isn't my DD which is why I haven't fixed it until now. My car has a Walbro Racetronix fuel pump and a Nitrous Outlet wet kit which gets its fuel from the end of the drivers side fuel rail at the schrader valve so I cant put a gauge on it. It was maintaining fuel pressure just fine with the fuel pump and nitrous kit on the car prior to April.

At first I would have to let the car crank for several second before the car would start or I cycle the key on 3 or 4 time to prime the pump and it would start. Well it progressively has been getting worse to the point now I cycle the key 3 or 4 time and it still took several seconds of cranking before it would start. Also If the car had less then a 1/4 tank of gas or close to empty the air/fuel gauge would peg lean and the service engine light would come on. But as soon as I fill the car up with gas the air/fuel gauge would read normal and the service engine light would go off. I assume it was something in the fuel tank. I don't know how much pressure is dropping because my fuel connection for my nitrous kit is hooked up to the end of the fuel rail. I removed the fuel pump from the tank this morning. I found the O ring on the pressure regulator was broke and half pushed out of the plastic case. So I bought a new regulator from Autozone and installed it. I noticed the black plastic case the regulator sits it seems a bit out of round. The car runs a lot better but I'm still having trouble maintaining pressure once I shut the car off. If I let the car sit for at least 5 minutes I have to either cycle the key several times or crank it for several seconds. The car isn't leaking gas anywhere at least I don't see any gas leaking from any place. Could the plastic housing being slightly out of round still be causing the issues. If it is where would I go to get 1? What other things would make it lose pressure so fast?

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Since the N2O is useless in the situation you are in, why not unhook it, and put the fuel psi gauge in it's place...troubleshoot the system, repair it, then make fitting changes so the gauge is retained??

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

What year is your car?

RobsZ28

iTrader: (3)

My car is a 98.

I replaced the large O ring on the fuel pressure regulator and it seemed to get better but it still was bleeding down in less then 5 minute. So I took the fuel pump back out of the tank and the O ring started to push out of the housing again. I took the regulator off the sending unit and realized I doubled up the small O ring that sits it front of the screen. But the plastic housing is still a little bit out of round but not as bad as it was before. So I put it all back together started the car let it sit for 5 minute and it still is hard to start just cranking but if I cycle the key just 1 time it starts right up. It's not perfect so I think I'm going to look for the housing the FPR sits in. None of the lines are cracked or damaged at all but I did break the filter sock trying to get the pump out of the tank so I will be ordering a new 1 of them.

blwn_00gt

iTrader: (17)

i been having the same problem with mine for the last few months also and from what i have been reading and searched, it sounds like its the check valve on the pump assembly.

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

Actually it is the regulator on the 98. The warpage you are experiencing is common & the regulator must be replaced or it will continue leaking/blowing the o-ring.

After you shut the car off, squeeze off the return line & see if the pump holds pressure... this will remove the potential regulator leak from the system.

RobsZ28

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply is there an upgrade housing so I don't have to deal with it warping anymore? Where do I get just the housing so far all I have found are complete sending units with stock fuel pumps for $400?

popethe5th

iTrader: (2)

theres plenty of aftermarket FPR's out there aeromotive makes a nice one, boost referenced too, just bolt on a turbo and its good to go

showstoMpinSS

iTrader: (2)

what if we just block the return line off and gut the regulator, i put a racetronix fuel pump on my 98 and the regulator was not letting any fuel go through so i gutted it, but now i cant get any psi to the rails, will it work if i close off the return line?

armintheman

iTrader: (31)

hey guys sorry to bring back an old thread but i'm having the same issue on a na car no nitrous. its my daily driver but i think the previous owner used it as a race car at some point because im fixing alot of the problems on the car. i can't seem to figure out whats causing this fuel issue. people have told me its the FPR...i called around and seems you cant get the regulator by it self only as a whole assembly? please help

MattxFatal

iTrader: (4)

^^I am starting to have the same symptoms.

Smithwick88

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, I'm having the same problem. Car is bone stock 02 Formula. At first I thought my battery was running a little low prior to start so I changed that out and still takes 4 to 5 seconds to crank so I know it's not spark (plugs and wires are good too). The car runs fine once it's started but it will lose pressure within 5 to 10 minutes of shutdown. Also the pumps sounds good and the car starts up after I prime the system 2 or 3 times before starting. I'm thinking FPR since it runs good after start up but any thoughts would be helpful. Also if anyone knows of any way to fix this other than buying a whole new pump assembly that would be great since they don't sell stock FPRs seperate.