KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Ok first off its a 347 Ls1 and going with the APS twin Turbo kit.
This is what I'm thinking of doing. Dont want to go over board but also dont want to cut my self short of fuel. Running around 600+ RWHP
I dont want to do a return fuel line.

Doing.
60# Mototron Injectors
Racetronix duel pump intake from lonnieperformance.
Is this going to be go enough.
Also Question? Why do people buy bigger fuel rails and have regulators, Do I need this stuff. Thanks Jordan

wicked@boost

regulators to lower down fuel pressure and you will be running rich especially at idle. I know that stock regulator fuel pressure is around 58 and u can't adjust it with tuning. however, u need to run another fuel line back to the rails.

this setup u mentioned should be good for 900+ rwhp if those 60# didn't max out.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

so you think I should get a regulator? run and extra line to what rails?

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

He is correct you are restricting the 2 pumps with the factory lines, Rails and reg. But with good tuning I have seen that setup push its way to about 700-750rwhp. The correct way to keep your fuel cool and unrestricted is to add rails reg. and new lines.

Nate

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

well, it would be good to get a regulator that is boost referenced. Otherwise, your fuel pressure across the injector will drop with boost... And to do a FPR, you need to have a return...

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

ok so next questions. What is a good Boost fuel reg, fuel rails and when you mean fuel LINES, do you mean the ones under the car. I'd like to keep those stock if I could.
And is there a difference between
Flowmatched 60# mototrons
and 60# mototrons. I guess this would be Reg. ones?

wicked@boost

http://www.lonniesperformance.com/fuelsystems.htm

have a look at the dual pumper kit, it includes everything from A-Z.

you should replace your lines since you will also run a return line to.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

ok so next questions. What is a good Boost fuel reg, fuel rails and when you mean fuel LINES, do you mean the ones under the car. I'd like to keep those stock if I could.
And is there a difference between
Flowmatched 60# mototrons
and 60# mototrons. I guess this would be Reg. ones?

Well What I'm trying to get away with is the lonnies Duel intake for $535 plus 60# injectors and Speed INC fuel rails. and a regulator. Just not sure which one.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

I think you are a little confused. You cant run a rail-mounted FPR without having a return line going back to the tank.


I am in basically the same boat as you, so I will throw out a couple of my ideas. I am also installing a twin turbo kit on a stock shortblock, shooting for 550 rwhp, but not much more than that. I have no plans for a forged engine right now, so I dont want a 2000$ fuel system that is way overkill. I also would prefer to do as little hacking on my car as possible.

I am currently running a racetronix single pump/harness, and will have motron 60lb injectors. Otherwise my fuel system is factory.

The options I came up with are:

1) keep what I have and use a boost-a-pump

2) change out the single racetronix for a lonnies dual pump setup, keep everthing else as is

3) put a 97 vette fuel rail/regulator on, keep singe racetronix and add a boost-a-pump if needed

Any ideas from the experts?

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Well I thought even with a Boost a pump you have to have a return line. Thats what I want to do.

Lonnie duel pump kit
60# mototrons
and thats it.
With aftermarket fuel rails, do you need a FPR?

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

You dont have to have a return line...
You do not need a Front mounted FPR with aftermarket rails..


Im trying to get by w/o putting two pumps in myself. I just dont want to hack up the bucket.

Now I have
50# Inj
Single Racetronix
Fast Fuel Rails
Im dropping 10psi at about 500hp...


I have in the works
60# mototrons
Single Racetronix
Fast Fuel Rails
MSD boost-a-pump

Getting ready to order a FPR and Return lines and hope this will support 600-650.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Like Tiger said you dont need a return line to run a boost-a-pump. Do you know what a BAP does?


Tiger, based on what you said sounds like I should go for the vette fuel rail. If you are losing fuel pressue at 500 hp then I likely will be also.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

bowtieman, what do you have already..

I also forgot to add I have FAST fuel rails.. Never compared them to stock so I dont know if they help or not..

Im running 7-8 psi on an sts kit btw.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Well what is the point of a return line anyway? Do you think the
Dual intake pumps from lonnies
Speed Inc fuel rails
MSD boost a pump
60# injectors

Will work for a 650+ rwhp Ls1?
I'm going to start my APS kit out at 8-10PSI then work my way up.

Haven't really read up on the BAP much? What is it?

What FPR are you going with and what lines? Tiger

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

If you are going FI, you do need a boost referenced FPR with a 1:1 rise on it. That means that the fuel pressure rises 1psi for every 1 psi of boost. Injectors are rated at the pressure differential. Do a search. All these questions have been answered before. The cheapest way would be to use your existing EVAP line as a return and get aftermarket rails and FPR.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

I have been looking at the magnafuel FPR and Summit braided lines.. You also need a good flowing filter which is expensive also..

A boost a pump increases voltage to the pump which makes it flow more. I have seen 20+ psi gains from it. A lot of people dont like it and had rather go with 2 pumps.. It just depends on if you want to cut the bucket. If you do the dual pumps then you have to keep like a 1/4-1/2 tank of gas I believe or you will kill the pumps.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

I have the racetronix single pump/harness, 60lb injectors and otherwise everything esle is stock.


For my power goals I would rather not cut up my fuel pump bucket to put duals in. It would make my car much easier to put back to stock if decide to sell it later on.

wicked@boost

is this true? can someone confirm or explain more?

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

That is what most people say. Whether it is true or not is debatable. The argument for doing that is to keep the pump surrounded by fuel to act as a cooling effect for it. However if you have a pump flowing 255 liters per hour through it, IMHO I think that the fuel flowing through it should be sufficient enough to cool the pump. Cars from the factory for many years didn't have a venturi bucket around them to keep the pump submerged and there were not many problems at all with it. I do keep my tank 1/4 full 90% of the time, but if it gets below 1/4 every now and then I ain't gonna sweat it. .02