z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

You may have seen in my other thread that I'm looking for a new rear (https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...nd-advice.html) . Well the reason is 'cuz i'm an idiot and messed up a bearing install and now I can't remove the c-clips to get the axel out and fix the damn bearing.

Here's what happened. So I was gettting the wah--wah--wah--wah sound from the car and pulled the axels and sure enough my bearing were bad and had marked up the axels pretty good. So I got two "bearing repair kits" from Napa, the one that seat the bearing on a different spot on the axel...well anyway, I got them on but as indicated in the instructions, they don't seat quite as far in the tube as the stock seals did so I could barely get the c-clips on. I actually had to tap them in with a hammer and screwdrive...I know dumbass. I figured no biggie, the next time I have a bearing issue I'll get a new rear anyway because I knew I'd eventually step up to a 12-bolt or 9" rear anyway, but figureed as long as the dif was good, no point, right?

Well, a week after the install I noticed my right rear bearing was leaking fluid, so I already knew when I poisted my other thread that I probably wouldn't be able to get the axel out...sure enough, I just tried, I couldn't get enough room for the c-clips to slide out.

So I figure I'm screwed, but I thought I might post up and see if anyone smarter than me (probably everyone here) has an idea of how to get these c-clips out vs. spending $2500 for a new rear.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I've heard of people very carefully using a dremel or small grinder to cut the c-clips off.

I had heard the same about those "axle repair" bearings leaking. After comparing one to a stock one, the axle repair bearing integrated seal is thinner. I'm guessing that's the issue. So I bit the bullet and bought a replacement axle and used OEM style bearings and seals. No leaks get *knock on wood*

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Well, I guess I could cut in there and replace the axel, but what about all the metal? Is it a big deal if it get in there?

ski23

iTrader: (21)

Did you pull the abs sensor off (if it has it) so axle can slide in more?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Thats true...... also, you can tap the axle in with a mini sledge to persuade it

02_ramair_ta

iTrader: (35)

Mini $hit.. I used the biggest one I had, when I broke my axle, because it was just jammed up in there.. If you are replacing the axle anyways.. just wack it.. It will give!!!

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Well I've pulled the ABS senseor, smacked the axel with a 3lb mini sledge, and tried a dremel with a cut-off wheel which wouldn't fit. Still no luck with anything. Went and got some conical grinder bits for the dremel will give that a shot tomorrow. Can't tell you how frustrating this is.

02_ramair_ta

iTrader: (35)

Put that mini sledge away, and take a real wack at it.. I used a 8lb... it fixed stuff.... lmao

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Well, I got the axle out, but now I need a new axle and c-clip...I've found axles, but I can't find anywhere to buy the c-clips. Any ideas?

ultraz

iTrader: (4)

....... dealership. Heres some insight on how to look at OEM Vs. aftermarket parts..... Oem has specific tolerances which have no problem working with other OEM parts.... Hell you can usually integrate some aftermarket parts to work with Oem parts too........ HOwever, if you use 2 aftermarket parts from different companies, the tolerances could be from the opposite ends of the spectrum and can give you some real problems.


I found out when I replaced my axles with hardened factory style Moser axles, that Mosers factory style axles and studs.... are both shorter than factory parts....... I did however use factor bearings, seals, etc. SO now my rear brakes hit the rotors at a slightly different angle= some noise in hard turns.. and Yes I had my rotors turned at the same time..

Now I end my rant with....... I wish I would have purchased an OEM axle replacement..