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Repalcing gears on my car and I need HELP!!

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Old 02-05-2010, 12:17 AM
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Unhappy Repalcing gears on my car and I need HELP!!

So I have a few questions about putting 4.10's in my ta. Its a Torsen Diff so will I need the limited slip additive when I put the fluids fack in or not? And second I noticed my new ring gear (motive performace) is slightly thicker than my factory gear. Do I need to shim the entire carrier to the left to make up the difference or is my new pinion made to accomadate the thicker ring gear? And one more slightly technical question... How do the torsen differentials even work?
Old 02-05-2010, 05:17 AM
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Just my thoughts:
second ? first, if your car came with a 3 seiars gear ( 3.23,3.42) the new ring will be ok , if you came with 2 seiars gear (2.73) then you have a problem, ring and pinion are a match, just install new gears with same shims to begain set up then check pattern and begain changing shims to obtain correct pattern.


>>> link: for answers on torsen dif. <<< http://www.torsen.com/general/general_faq.htm

also more info on setting up new gears
http://www.keliente.com/gears1.htm <<with this I had no problems

http://www.greenfries.info/rear_gear.htm

http://www.jawsgear.com/tech_kits.php

http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index.htm
good luck Johnny

Last edited by SS SLP2; 02-05-2010 at 10:18 PM.
Old 02-05-2010, 10:09 AM
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No additive needed with a torsen

Old 02-05-2010, 11:39 AM
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with 4.10's in a torsen you will need to grind down the paddle so it clears the ring gear.
Old 02-05-2010, 01:02 PM
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how do you recomend I grind down the paddle? can just spend some time with i fine file and work on it like that?, or shoud i have a machine shop mill iut down for me?
Old 02-05-2010, 02:41 PM
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Basically a hand file and the inserting edge of the paddle is done pretty quick...
Old 02-05-2010, 06:59 PM
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Not the leading edge of the block, the rearward side of it close to the tang that holds the mounting bolt. And good luck with a hand file you are gonna be there a while. I used a 4 1/2 grinder and a flap disc.
Old 02-05-2010, 09:03 PM
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Everyone quotes the standard "Torsen units do not need additive". However, with 3 different gear sets my Torsen was a bit quieter with additive. Parking lot turns made odd groans that went away with additive.
Old 02-05-2010, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BJM
Everyone quotes the standard "Torsen units do not need additive". However, with 3 different gear sets my Torsen was a bit quieter with additive. Parking lot turns made odd groans that went away with additive.
I agree
Is it true that the Torsen unit in the production Camaro needs the GM modifier added?
check my reply # 2
Johnny
Old 02-05-2010, 10:25 PM
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The friction modifiers are for the clutches in Auburn style posi's. The torsen is all gears hence the picture I posted above. No clutches so no additive needed. Mine is dead silent and flawless in operation at @105k with cheap **** mineral oil 75/90 in it. Do what you want, Im just trying to help you become more educated
Old 02-05-2010, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
The friction modifiers are for the clutches in Auburn style posi's. The torsen is all gears hence the picture I posted above. No clutches so no additive needed. Mine is dead silent and flawless in operation at @105k with cheap **** mineral oil 75/90 in it. Do what you want, Im just trying to help you become more educated
The Torsen began life as the Gleason Torque Sensing differential. Gleason himself invented the concept but could not build it until he designed and built special gear hobbing machines that conventional gear cutting tools could not make. The internal gears of the Torsen employ quasi-worm gear geometries. Worm gears work using friction to cause locking when the worm turns the mated driven gear. Worms depend on friction to prevent being back-driven. Since Torsens are not meant to fully lock but instead to partially lock the differential, there is a lot of sliding going on. The friction modifier helps it slide. You can drive without it sure, but the service manual does recommend it.
Old 02-07-2010, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Not the leading edge of the block, the rearward side of it close to the tang that holds the mounting bolt. And good luck with a hand file you are gonna be there a while. I used a 4 1/2 grinder and a flap disc.
lol yea you will be there ahwile with a hand file.
Old 02-08-2010, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SS SLP2


also more info on setting up new gears
http://www.keliente.com/gears1.htm <<with this I had no problems
I looked at this one and it is incomplete. It doesn't tell you how to measure the pinion depth.

I didn't look at the rest.

Last edited by cambirdracing; 02-09-2010 at 06:14 AM.
Old 02-08-2010, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1_Sean
lol yea you will be there ahwile with a hand file.
When I did my gear swap in my Firehawk (frist time doing it) I was like WTF it wont fit..I was like ahh **** all this time geting it set up and now the block or paddle whatever it is wont fit. First I was like drive it in..then I called my dad..he was like NOOO dont do that if I ever need toget them back out they wont and take achance of breaking the ring, 30seconds with the grinder took care of that. Fits fine..I had pictuers of how I did it but cant find um
Old 02-08-2010, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 223HAWK
When I did my gear swap in my Firehawk (frist time doing it) I was like WTF it wont fit..I was like ahh **** all this time geting it set up and now the block or paddle whatever it is wont fit. First I was like drive it in..then I called my dad..he was like NOOO dont do that if I ever need toget them back out they wont and take achance of breaking the ring, 30seconds with the grinder took care of that. Fits fine..I had pictuers of how I did it but cant find um
You can see the grinding on the right end.



Pinion depth measurement is a fiddly process and requires a lot of patience. Check my page for more.
Old 02-18-2010, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
The friction modifiers are for the clutches in Auburn style posi's. The torsen is all gears hence the picture I posted above. No clutches so no additive needed. Mine is dead silent and flawless in operation at @105k with cheap **** mineral oil 75/90 in it. Do what you want, Im just trying to help you become more educated
Originally Posted by BJM
The Torsen began life as the Gleason Torque Sensing differential. Gleason himself invented the concept but could not build it until he designed and built special gear hobbing machines that conventional gear cutting tools could not make. The internal gears of the Torsen employ quasi-worm gear geometries. Worm gears work using friction to cause locking when the worm turns the mated driven gear. Worms depend on friction to prevent being back-driven. Since Torsens are not meant to fully lock but instead to partially lock the differential, there is a lot of sliding going on. The friction modifier helps it slide. You can drive without it sure, but the service manual does recommend it.
Either way, some brands of gear oil comes with LS friction modifier already added to it.
Old 03-21-2010, 01:25 PM
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subscribing
Old 03-21-2010, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by joecar
Either way, some brands of gear oil comes with LS friction modifier already added to it.
from my understanding, most, if not all syn fluids have the additive added into it.
Old 03-22-2010, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
from my understanding, most, if not all syn fluids have the additive added into it.
Yes, I don't see any that don't have it.
Old 03-22-2010, 11:22 AM
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so Mobil1 75w90 would already have the additive in it?


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