difficulty of replacing pinion and carrier bearrings
#1
difficulty of replacing pinion and carrier bearrings
hey guys,
im pretty sure my pinion or carrier bearings in my stock 10 bolt are shot...
are there any how to tutorials on here to do that and is it completely necessary to reshim everything? also how exactly do you know how far to crush a new crush sleeve?
im strapped on cash and am looking to spend as little as possible.. and maybe ill even learn something
im pretty sure my pinion or carrier bearings in my stock 10 bolt are shot...
are there any how to tutorials on here to do that and is it completely necessary to reshim everything? also how exactly do you know how far to crush a new crush sleeve?
im strapped on cash and am looking to spend as little as possible.. and maybe ill even learn something
#2
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i have a bunch of stuff printed off about all the specs for the ten bolt tha i used when i did my pinion seal if i can find them i will post them
enjoy the lovely scent of that old diff fluid when you do this
enjoy the lovely scent of that old diff fluid when you do this
#3
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pinion and carrier bearing are easy you just need a press and a bearing clamp to get under the bearings to press them off you can reuse your shims and pinion shim if you are not changing the gears. as for the crush sleeve its really a hard spacer that doesnt crush but i did mine with the feeling of the pinion on how it spun to tight would be hard to turn and to loose will have play back and forth
#4
so theres side shims and pinion shims which is all that set up a rear end correct?
i dont have a press, might be able to get a clamp though(rent or buy).. so its needed to take off and PUT ON new bearings? is it completely necessary or can i get by?
anyone have specs for how far to crush the crush sleeve?
I replaced my pinion seal with the old sleeve/make marks method.. but my rearend was whining before and still is now so i think its bearings since i drove on low diff oil for a little bit.. and yea the oil smells real bad ha!! garage still smells
i dont have a press, might be able to get a clamp though(rent or buy).. so its needed to take off and PUT ON new bearings? is it completely necessary or can i get by?
anyone have specs for how far to crush the crush sleeve?
I replaced my pinion seal with the old sleeve/make marks method.. but my rearend was whining before and still is now so i think its bearings since i drove on low diff oil for a little bit.. and yea the oil smells real bad ha!! garage still smells
#5
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u need a press there is no other way to take them off the clamp then when installing the pinion bearing u need a piece of pipe to push the bearing back on u can reuse the shims under the pinion that are on the stock pinion now.
the carrier bearings u need the bearing clamp then the pipe thats the inside size of the diameter of the race that the bearing rollers go around so u dont break the bearing
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm READ
the carrier bearings u need the bearing clamp then the pipe thats the inside size of the diameter of the race that the bearing rollers go around so u dont break the bearing
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm READ
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did mine saturday. you will need a press to get the inner pinion bearing off and the new one on. pullers (2 or 3 jaw type) won't do it. I reused the original gears, shims. Just changed the pinion bearings and races. the outer one was chewed up, the inner looked good but I replaced it any way. left the carrier bearings alone, they looked great. new pinion seal, new pinion nut. tightened the pinion nut till I had about 20-25 in/lbs of rotational drag on the pinion before anything else in the rear was reinstalled. Haven't reinstalled the drive shaft, going to replace the U joints today and put it back in. I removed the stock torque arm to make things a lot easier to get to. Going to order a new UMI adjustable TA from Sam tomorrow when he gets back.
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#10
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If your doing the bearing you should also do the races that the bearsing sit in to for the ones that you are changing because if you do have bad bearings in the rear now they could scratch up or wearf the race it sits in causing noise so if u put a new bearing and not a new race it could still make noise.
#12
see the only thing i debate after reading up on this for about a good 5-6hrs is some people i see using pullers and others presses.. some of the how to's dont even mention presses.. just picked up a race installer kit and did all my homework.. gonna borrow all the jaw pullers and pullers period my friends own and go to work on it tmrw.. i might be on the forums asking for advice ha..
how much will/should a shop charge me to remove and replace that bearing if i simply bring the pinion in with a new bearing? a press cost 80 bucks at harbor but doesnt come with the correct size tubing and what not to press these
how much will/should a shop charge me to remove and replace that bearing if i simply bring the pinion in with a new bearing? a press cost 80 bucks at harbor but doesnt come with the correct size tubing and what not to press these
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I had a local machine shop do the pinion bearing removal/install for me. I think they charged me $10 each time. But they also let me borrow an oversize carrier bearing to test fit my stock shim with my new setup - for free. And they let me borrow a big lever type tool that held the pinion yoke while I tightened the f'ing nut to crush the collar - for free. And they answered all my questions. Great guys.
#15
apparently a fill should be enough but a lot of people do lube them with gear oil before assembly into the races.. im sure either or is good.. but illl dab a little oil when i do them