ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

I've had the rear end for about 6500 miles and changed the oil at the 250 mile mark and then at the 1250 mile mark and now its on the last oil change for a while, only used 80w-90 conventional as recommend by Moser as this is not a limited slip.

I have leakage around where the E-brake is where I believe it is coming from...or it is coming from the center of the rear end out along the axle tube, and then drips down onto that. A little of a back story is when I first got the rear end I actually had an improperly machined hub with the bolt pattern incorrectly drilled beyond tolerances but the wheel actually still went on, however when I tightened the lugs one of them bent due to the incorrect tolerances and I noticed it when tightening. Got it replaced and I'm certain I noticed it some miles after this.

could it be too full of fluid? I'm going to pull the top fill plug out and see if any comes out, I will check the level then, and I might even drain some out and then see if it does it again....its always been just a little

opinions?

mike13

iTrader: (27)

I was just outside dealing with the same exact thing. I believe the nuts holding the axles in and backing plate could need to be tightened up. Mine where a little loose so I took it apart cleaned them up and used a little locktite.

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

moser replied to my email and asked me to check the breather and to also check fill level

roy

My Moser did the same thing years ago. It was the axle seal damaged. replaced it and its been bone dry ever since.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

You mentioned "the top fill plug" What are you referring to? Bob

98z-28redcamaro

iTrader: (3)

prob the o ring on the wheel bearing

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

the fill plug on the actual center section that I think is a 9/16 allen key.

A damaged axle seal wouldn't surprise me, as I ran with the bad machined hub for about 100 miles trying to figure things out


Going to get under the car this weekend and check it out, will check breather first, then fill level. If that is not it then I will pursue the axle seal(s)....

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

ok, update. Yes I know its been 28 days since my last post...busy around here.

checked it all out, breather is not clogged, fill level is just slightly below the 9/16ths allen key plug.

it has got to be either the damaged axle seal or that O-ring on the wheel bearing... I don't have an exploded view, so I don't know if those are the same parts or not.

garygnu

replace the seal and the O-ring ,and use some RTV on the bearing .

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

i'm guessing take the wheel off, pull the brakes off, pull axle out and that the seal & O-ring are just inside that section?

garygnu

the o-ring will be on the out side of the bearing ..you mite need a need 1.the oil seal is inside the housing tube.you will need to remove it and install a new 1 with a seal install tool.put some moly or grease on the rubber part of the seal .

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

no O-ring. Seal install tool... large circular device that matches metal surface on oil seal... got it... lol.

This is a moser 12 bolt, from center of rear end to outside it goes:
seats the axle splines inside the pumpkin, then there is an oil seal piece, then the press on axle bearing.

my passenger side axle oil seal was ripped in several spots, likely from contact with the spines when removing/installing at some point during my previous issue with the 0.009" out of tolerance axle I first had and installing the new axle.

Here are pictures of it:




And here is what I don't like seeing right now:


I think from when the car was ran with the out of tolerance wheel hub, as I know Spraker re-used the press on axle bearing with the replacement axle I got.

It also shows at the seating surface of the bearing: (Look at top of axle tube at bearing seating surface:



Took the drivers side out to compare and check things out:








This side (drivers side) had never been taken apart since we purchased the unit from Spraker. Found what I think to be axle packaging/covering material in the axle tube. It was a paper/wax pieces.:





I don't like the look of the passenger side bearing & bearing seating surface on the axle tube. Did the out of tolerance hub cause this? the "spot" feels a little worn/rough slightly. Time for a complete replacement or shims of some sort??

Another thing that I'm about to verify, is I have Timken seals #473229 (which are the oil seal part numbers that Moser gave me) and I'm about to measure its ID and compare to the axle diameter... the axle is flared (diameter is more) towards the end and it seals around the axle pretty good, at least my new one does.

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

I cleaned all of this up and it looks/appears like the bearing is just showing the housing machined surface in it. did that make sense? The drivers side has it also, but not near as bad.

On my rear end I have the lip seal that seals the axle, and then I have the bearing. My bearings do NOT have an O-ring seal on them. I have been advised at this point to put it back together and if it leaks again, replace the axle bearings with ones that have the O-ring on them.

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

to update all on this, I installed fresh timken axle shaft seals pn#Timken Seal 51098

and I'm still getting oil on my e-brake and onto my brakes and wheels.

currently talking with moser to resolve issue.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

I have went through this many times on mine. Looking at your pics I automatically see 3 leaks points which can be happening.

1) no RTV around the outer bearing surface
2) no RTV on the pad where the backing plate attaches w/ 4 bolts
3) axle seal (obvious)

....4) this happened to me once. Inner race got chewed up and oil bypassed through the bearing and came out of the front of the bearing where you see the black rubber bearing cover.

-use brake clean and remove oil from back of backing plate, mounting surface on end of axle tube, outside of bearing, and inside the tube where the bearing rests. Use a thin film on all of those surfaces when re-assembling. On the inner axle tube, put a thin film of grease in that inner lip. After all of that, put the car on stands and run it a bit to get the fluid to move around, them pull the wheels off and just remove the backing plates, don't pull the axles. Since you cleaned everything with brake clean, everything should be dry. If you see a new wet spot, this will help isolate the leak easier. May just be that front of the bearing leaking due to the inner race being chewed up. Driving the car it was hard to notice since mine is a full rod end suspension.

-To use the Moser bearings w/ o-ring (9508 b) the retainer is larger than the old style. This prevents you from running the inner axle seals because it will contact and make metal shavings. To remedy this, toss the retainers on a lathe and remove approx .100.

I no longer run axle tube seals, but I do run the 9508b bearings w/ the oring, and I use the RTV on all the surfaces that I mentioned. I have had no leaks at all.

The orange that I see in the pics on the outside of the bearing surface, may be some moisture that crept in due to no sealnt being used. That is how mine was when I first bought it (used) and had to rebuild and replace almost everything.

Below are some pics of what rubs, and how a bearing got chewed up and leaked from the front of the bearing.

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

you my friend are a life saver. Just when I came to look at this post I had thought about using some RTV around the non-O-ring bearings to see if it would fix it, but when I can install new O-ring bearings for $65 versus $40 for the regular I might as well not take my chances and go for the O-ring & RTV combo.

Thank you for posting this, I have already saved your entire post & pictures.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

Glad I can help. Just remember, if you still want to run those inner axles seals, the bearing retainer needs to be machined down a bit to eliminate the rubbing issue. But the inner tube seal is not needed anymore w/ the o-ring bearings. If you need any more pics just let me know, I have a ton on my comp from when I tore it apart, rebuilt, gear setup etc.

Canada204

iTrader: (3)

I used RTV aswell cheap and works

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

Just so everyone knows Moser's only solution is to get the O-ring bearings. The RTV will work also, but Moser didn't really mention that. They really haven't been helpful at all, even during the bullshit with my out of tolerance axle.

The shop/seller that I purchased my rear end from wanted to throw his two cents in the mix, so I thought I would share this:

"SEALS ON THE INNER PORTIONS OF THE REAR END HOUSING. IT IS A SEAL MADE BY A COMPANY CALLED SEALS-IT. IT IS A DIAPHRAM STYLE SEAL WHICH THE AXLE PASSES THRU AND PREVENTS GREASE FORM EVER GETTING OUT TO THE BEARING AREA . THIS HAS PROVEN TO BE MOST HELPFUL IN SOME 12 BOLT AND 9 IN HOUSINGS WE HAVE EXPERIENCED LEAKAGE WITH."

I'm to the point of taking this piece of **** moser rear end out, chopping it up and shipping it back to them with a nice letter and purchasing a different (Strange) rear end. I don't know the possible differences internally about sealing, if the Strange is any different but I'm ******* fed up with Moser and their attitude about all this crap they have caused.

At this point, I'm taking the car to the shop, having the rear end taken out and all of it checked along with the mentioned inner seals installed and new bearings installed on the axle ends as I don't trust that they are mechanically sound. I'll keep everyone updated.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

Even with the new inner axle seals added, use a caliper and measure from where the bearing rests when fully bolted together, to where the new inner seal is.

Then measure from the same point on the back of the bearing to the end of the bearing retainer ring, I am not sure how this new inner seal is compared to the one that you have pictured previously, but it may come in contact w/ the new bearing retainer, but since you have them already pressed on, it's too late to machine the retainers down to avoid contact. This may not even be an issue w/ the new seals that you have been reccomended, but worth measuring before you may have to pull it apart due to grinding and metal shavings.

Another thing, have the out of tollerance axle situation been corrected? I may have missed where you said that.

Moser seems to be hit or miss. Bro had problems w/ studs drilled / tapped crooked but not horribe, I just sent my housing back to them to get narrowed and checked if it was bent (small bend which was corrected on their jig when the put the ends back on) The only thing is that they forgot to send my t-bolts back when I shipped it out so I had to make new ones, which mine are 10 times better than what most companies offer, and forgot my Moser axle stickers. But they did send me a new set of t-bolts for free in both sizes right away, but forgot my stickers again Nothing that would turn me off going w/ them again.