New Rear End (S60, Ford 9', 12 bolt) ?
09-13-2012, 08:55 AM
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New Rear End (S60, Ford 9', 12 bolt) ? So I need a new rear end in my 01 Z28. Its sucks.
I have decided to just keep the car and over time build it up into a low 10sec - high 9sec car starting with the obvious, rear end.
At first I will be dropping a blower cam in the car after the rear and eventually a blower so I am going to need a beefy rear.
I know it is going to be expensive no matter what way I look at it.
So my main concern is reliability, and second, is best bang for my buck.
I heard the 12 bolts can break w a M6 and slicks when launching pretty hard. I am un-easy about them.
My knowledge is limited with axles which is what I want to go big with so feel free to say what I will need with the install.
So S60 vs. Ford 9' - I am looking to get something with 3.90 gears.
If I am spending this much money on something I want to do it correct the first time around.
I know the S60 and Ford 9' are considered to be pretty bulletproof but is the S60 overkill?
What will it cost me to have a complete swap with my 10 bolt with reliabilty being the biggest concern here but at the same time I dont want to overkill what I need.
Thanks guys.
I have decided to just keep the car and over time build it up into a low 10sec - high 9sec car starting with the obvious, rear end.
At first I will be dropping a blower cam in the car after the rear and eventually a blower so I am going to need a beefy rear.
I know it is going to be expensive no matter what way I look at it.
So my main concern is reliability, and second, is best bang for my buck.
I heard the 12 bolts can break w a M6 and slicks when launching pretty hard. I am un-easy about them.
My knowledge is limited with axles which is what I want to go big with so feel free to say what I will need with the install.
So S60 vs. Ford 9' - I am looking to get something with 3.90 gears.
If I am spending this much money on something I want to do it correct the first time around.
I know the S60 and Ford 9' are considered to be pretty bulletproof but is the S60 overkill?
What will it cost me to have a complete swap with my 10 bolt with reliabilty being the biggest concern here but at the same time I dont want to overkill what I need.
Thanks guys.
09-13-2012, 10:18 AM
#3
I would not even consider a 12 bolt, they are good to around 400rwhp. Poster above is only surviving due to high 60ft times. A spool would be a little stronger, but not strong enough. Spend the money once, not 5 times like me.
I ran 1.4s and broke my 12 bolt 4 times. 3 times gears and one time the spiders in the Eaton posi.
Go S60 if you are on a budget and a 9" if not. 9" can be a lot lighter. My MWC9 set up was 48lbs lighter than my 12 bolts set up.
If you street drive it, get a proper differential, but they are pricey for the strong ones. Spools will work, but can be pain in parking lots or the rain.
I ran 1.4s and broke my 12 bolt 4 times. 3 times gears and one time the spiders in the Eaton posi.
Go S60 if you are on a budget and a 9" if not. 9" can be a lot lighter. My MWC9 set up was 48lbs lighter than my 12 bolts set up.
If you street drive it, get a proper differential, but they are pricey for the strong ones. Spools will work, but can be pain in parking lots or the rain.
09-13-2012, 10:26 AM
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I would not even consider a 12 bolt, they are good to around 400rwhp. Poster above is only surviving due to high 60ft times. A spool would be a little stronger, but not strong enough. Spend the money once, not 5 times like me.
I ran 1.4s and broke my 12 bolt 4 times. 3 times gears and one time the spiders in the Eaton posi.
Go S60 if you are on a budget and a 9" if not. 9" can be a lot lighter. My MWC9 set up was 48lbs lighter than my 12 bolts set up.
If you street drive it, get a proper differential, but they are pricey for the strong ones. Spools will work, but can be pain in parking lots or the rain.
I ran 1.4s and broke my 12 bolt 4 times. 3 times gears and one time the spiders in the Eaton posi.
Go S60 if you are on a budget and a 9" if not. 9" can be a lot lighter. My MWC9 set up was 48lbs lighter than my 12 bolts set up.
If you street drive it, get a proper differential, but they are pricey for the strong ones. Spools will work, but can be pain in parking lots or the rain.
What do you mean proper differential? I dont quite understand when you say "spools".
The car is driven 2k per year and garaged year round so it is going to be driven less than it all ready is. Ill probably leave dr's or slicks on it year round so no rain for me. However the driveability factor still plays a role that I care about greatly.
How much heavier is the S60 compared to a 9'?
What kind of axles should I get so I can sleep safe at night? And if there are any other things I need to know about if I were to call up Strange today and make an order.
09-13-2012, 10:40 AM
#5
S60 is a great rearend and by far the best bang for the buck, but it is quite heavy and weighs in at about 70-80 pounds more than the MWC fabricated 9" package.
The MWC 9" is the best value in a true bolt-in 9" rearend for the f-body cars. Has more standard features and many, many more options than any of the other rearends on the market. http://www.midwestchassis.com/fabricated-9-specs.html
A spool is a diff unit that locks both axles together 100% of the time. On corners the inside tire spins, the outside tire drags. The spool is the lightest, strongest, and least cost of any diff unit out there. The spool would probably be your best choice with your mods and what you use your car for.
Feel free to call or email us. MWC is also a direct dealer for Strange, Moser, and Yukon, and has the guaranteed best deals on any rearend or component for your chassis. We have the street and track experience to assist you with installs and tuning as well.
The MWC 9" is the best value in a true bolt-in 9" rearend for the f-body cars. Has more standard features and many, many more options than any of the other rearends on the market. http://www.midwestchassis.com/fabricated-9-specs.html
A spool is a diff unit that locks both axles together 100% of the time. On corners the inside tire spins, the outside tire drags. The spool is the lightest, strongest, and least cost of any diff unit out there. The spool would probably be your best choice with your mods and what you use your car for.
Feel free to call or email us. MWC is also a direct dealer for Strange, Moser, and Yukon, and has the guaranteed best deals on any rearend or component for your chassis. We have the street and track experience to assist you with installs and tuning as well.
09-13-2012, 10:47 AM
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S60 is a great rearend and by far the best bang for the buck, but it is quite heavy and weighs in at about 70-80 pounds more than the MWC fabricated 9" package.
The MWC 9" is the best value in a true bolt-in 9" rearend for the f-body cars. Has more standard features and many, many more options than any of the other rearends on the market. http://www.midwestchassis.com/fabricated-9-specs.html
A spool is a diff unit that locks both axles together 100% of the time. On corners the inside tire spins, the outside tire drags. The spool is the lightest, strongest, and least cost of any diff unit out there. The spool would probably be your best choice with your mods and what you use your car for.
Feel free to call or email us. MWC is also a direct dealer for Strange, Moser, and Yukon, and has the guaranteed best deals on any rearend or component for your chassis. We have the street and track experience to assist you with installs and tuning as well.
The MWC 9" is the best value in a true bolt-in 9" rearend for the f-body cars. Has more standard features and many, many more options than any of the other rearends on the market. http://www.midwestchassis.com/fabricated-9-specs.html
A spool is a diff unit that locks both axles together 100% of the time. On corners the inside tire spins, the outside tire drags. The spool is the lightest, strongest, and least cost of any diff unit out there. The spool would probably be your best choice with your mods and what you use your car for.
Feel free to call or email us. MWC is also a direct dealer for Strange, Moser, and Yukon, and has the guaranteed best deals on any rearend or component for your chassis. We have the street and track experience to assist you with installs and tuning as well.
The spool is good for cars upwards of 600rwhp?
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09-13-2012, 11:13 AM
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I would not even consider a 12 bolt, they are good to around 400rwhp. Poster above is only surviving due to high 60ft times. A spool would be a little stronger, but not strong enough. Spend the money once, not 5 times like me.
I ran 1.4s and broke my 12 bolt 4 times. 3 times gears and one time the spiders in the Eaton posi.
Go S60 if you are on a budget and a 9" if not. 9" can be a lot lighter. My MWC9 set up was 48lbs lighter than my 12 bolts set up.
If you street drive it, get a proper differential, but they are pricey for the strong ones. Spools will work, but can be pain in parking lots or the rain.
I ran 1.4s and broke my 12 bolt 4 times. 3 times gears and one time the spiders in the Eaton posi.
Go S60 if you are on a budget and a 9" if not. 9" can be a lot lighter. My MWC9 set up was 48lbs lighter than my 12 bolts set up.
If you street drive it, get a proper differential, but they are pricey for the strong ones. Spools will work, but can be pain in parking lots or the rain.
S60 is a great rearend and by far the best bang for the buck, but it is quite heavy and weighs in at about 70-80 pounds more than the MWC fabricated 9" package.
The MWC 9" is the best value in a true bolt-in 9" rearend for the f-body cars. Has more standard features and many, many more options than any of the other rearends on the market. http://www.midwestchassis.com/fabricated-9-specs.html
A spool is a diff unit that locks both axles together 100% of the time. On corners the inside tire spins, the outside tire drags. The spool is the lightest, strongest, and least cost of any diff unit out there. The spool would probably be your best choice with your mods and what you use your car for.
Feel free to call or email us. MWC is also a direct dealer for Strange, Moser, and Yukon, and has the guaranteed best deals on any rearend or component for your chassis. We have the street and track experience to assist you with installs and tuning as well.
The MWC 9" is the best value in a true bolt-in 9" rearend for the f-body cars. Has more standard features and many, many more options than any of the other rearends on the market. http://www.midwestchassis.com/fabricated-9-specs.html
A spool is a diff unit that locks both axles together 100% of the time. On corners the inside tire spins, the outside tire drags. The spool is the lightest, strongest, and least cost of any diff unit out there. The spool would probably be your best choice with your mods and what you use your car for.
Feel free to call or email us. MWC is also a direct dealer for Strange, Moser, and Yukon, and has the guaranteed best deals on any rearend or component for your chassis. We have the street and track experience to assist you with installs and tuning as well.
Search my threads if you are planning your own install.
09-13-2012, 11:39 AM
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I was a bit late to this thread, but you have received the proper advice from those above in my opinion ... since mine is a budget build, I went with the S60 and a spool and, knock on wood, it has been bullitt proof with an M6 on 27" QTP's and I will be going to a 28" ET Drag someday soon with no hesitation.
Search my threads if you are planning your own install.
Search my threads if you are planning your own install.
09-13-2012, 12:18 PM
#10
The only thing that is a real bummer with the S60 is you cant get a 3.90 Gear Ratio and that seems like the perfect gear choice for many! Sure the added weight sucks too but most can find 60-80 pounds to drop out of their car relatively easily if they want to.
If I build my own, I will build a 9"! If I buy a complete unit unit, I will buy an S60.
Joe
If I build my own, I will build a 9"! If I buy a complete unit unit, I will buy an S60.
Joe
09-13-2012, 12:18 PM
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Here are the specs on my S60 & DS ...
Strange Engineering S60 (PRSF10)
35 spline pro lightweight spool
Pro Race (Hy-Tuf) axles, 35-spline
tapped for 1/2” & 5/8” screw-in studs & 5/8" 4.5"
4.10 ring and pinion
1/2-20 two inch wheel studs
BMR adjustable (3-hole) lower control arm brackets
Strange Engineering Seamless 3” OD chrome-moly driveshaft, TIG welded, electronically balanced
1350 series Strange forged chrome-moly weld yokes
1350 Spicer H.D. u-joint
... these are right out of my car's description in my profile's "garage".
My rear came from Carl at CRP, but all of the sponsers on this site appear to be equally knowledgable ... just shop for your best deal.
Strange Engineering S60 (PRSF10)
35 spline pro lightweight spool
Pro Race (Hy-Tuf) axles, 35-spline
tapped for 1/2” & 5/8” screw-in studs & 5/8" 4.5"
4.10 ring and pinion
1/2-20 two inch wheel studs
BMR adjustable (3-hole) lower control arm brackets
Strange Engineering Seamless 3” OD chrome-moly driveshaft, TIG welded, electronically balanced
1350 series Strange forged chrome-moly weld yokes
1350 Spicer H.D. u-joint
... these are right out of my car's description in my profile's "garage".
My rear came from Carl at CRP, but all of the sponsers on this site appear to be equally knowledgable ... just shop for your best deal.
09-13-2012, 12:55 PM
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The only thing that is a real bummer with the S60 is you cant get a 3.90 Gear Ratio and that seems like the perfect gear choice for many! Sure the added weight sucks too but most can find 60-80 pounds to drop out of their car relatively easily if they want to.
If I build my own, I will build a 9"! If I buy a complete unit unit, I will buy an S60.
Joe
If I build my own, I will build a 9"! If I buy a complete unit unit, I will buy an S60.
Joe
Here are the specs on my S60 & DS ...
Strange Engineering S60 (PRSF10)
35 spline pro lightweight spool
Pro Race (Hy-Tuf) axles, 35-spline
tapped for 1/2” & 5/8” screw-in studs & 5/8" 4.5"
4.10 ring and pinion
1/2-20 two inch wheel studs
BMR adjustable (3-hole) lower control arm brackets
Strange Engineering Seamless 3” OD chrome-moly driveshaft, TIG welded, electronically balanced
1350 series Strange forged chrome-moly weld yokes
1350 Spicer H.D. u-joint
... these are right out of my car's description in my profile's "garage".
My rear came from Carl at CRP, but all of the sponsers on this site appear to be equally knowledgable ... just shop for your best deal.
Strange Engineering S60 (PRSF10)
35 spline pro lightweight spool
Pro Race (Hy-Tuf) axles, 35-spline
tapped for 1/2” & 5/8” screw-in studs & 5/8" 4.5"
4.10 ring and pinion
1/2-20 two inch wheel studs
BMR adjustable (3-hole) lower control arm brackets
Strange Engineering Seamless 3” OD chrome-moly driveshaft, TIG welded, electronically balanced
1350 series Strange forged chrome-moly weld yokes
1350 Spicer H.D. u-joint
... these are right out of my car's description in my profile's "garage".
My rear came from Carl at CRP, but all of the sponsers on this site appear to be equally knowledgable ... just shop for your best deal.
09-13-2012, 01:01 PM
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The only thing that is a real bummer with the S60 is you cant get a 3.90 Gear Ratio and that seems like the perfect gear choice for many! Sure the added weight sucks too but most can find 60-80 pounds to drop out of their car relatively easily if they want to.
If I build my own, I will build a 9"! If I buy a complete unit unit, I will buy an S60.
Joe
If I build my own, I will build a 9"! If I buy a complete unit unit, I will buy an S60.
Joe
OP, overall, talk to all of the site sponsers and make your own decision on what's best for you. My decision was based on brute strength and less money, although, I gave up some in performance and weight.
09-13-2012, 01:13 PM
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You are right about the gear set ... the S60 accepts Dana 60, 9.75" gear sets and 3.90 is not a choice. The weight is a disadvantage of all of the aftermarket rears and the S60 is the heaviest, but only 17# more than a Moser-style 9", and 68# more than the stock 10-bolt. The fabricated 9" is probably the lightest of all (I don't know the weight of a fabricated 9") but their disadvantage is price. If you think about it, is there any better place to add weight to a drag car than over the rear tires?
OP, overall, talk to all of the site sponsers and make your own decision on what's best for you. My decision was based on brute strength and less money, although, I gave up some in performance and weight.
OP, overall, talk to all of the site sponsers and make your own decision on what's best for you. My decision was based on brute strength and less money, although, I gave up some in performance and weight.
09-13-2012, 02:39 PM
#17
One other thing to point out. I see the OP has shocks and STB, so it appears you might be interested in handling. If so, the Dana is not the way to go. If straight line is all that matters, Dana is a good choice.
The rear end is unsprung weight, and throwing more weight into unsprung weight is a bad thing. The shock will not be able to control it as well as less weight. Also back to my differential consideration comment,as already mentioned, a spool forces the inside and out side wheels to turn at the same speed, this is not how it happens in real life around a corner, one has to slip, if not both, hence why they are bad in the rain and tight turns. If you want a car to turn/handle well, the last thing you want is a spool. A Trac Lock or Wavetrak are the ones I would choose for a 10 sec car, but as mentioned they are pricey, almost $1k alone. I personally have the Wavetrak. I autocross, do track days, street drive it and run at the strip. So I need it.
Just things to make sure you consider. Again so you can spend the money once.
The rear end is unsprung weight, and throwing more weight into unsprung weight is a bad thing. The shock will not be able to control it as well as less weight. Also back to my differential consideration comment,as already mentioned, a spool forces the inside and out side wheels to turn at the same speed, this is not how it happens in real life around a corner, one has to slip, if not both, hence why they are bad in the rain and tight turns. If you want a car to turn/handle well, the last thing you want is a spool. A Trac Lock or Wavetrak are the ones I would choose for a 10 sec car, but as mentioned they are pricey, almost $1k alone. I personally have the Wavetrak. I autocross, do track days, street drive it and run at the strip. So I need it.
Just things to make sure you consider. Again so you can spend the money once.
09-13-2012, 02:51 PM
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Let me know what you find out!
Any complaints? any at all?
Damn, I did not know this either until now. Yes, I am definitely concerned with handling.
So for example, taking a turn on a highway at 90-100mph would make my car handle worse with the S60 than it all ready does now with the 10 bolt?
How bad are we talking here?
Thanks for pointing this out.
Any complaints? any at all?
One other thing to point out. I see the OP has shocks and STB, so it appears you might be interested in handling. If so, the Dana is not the way to go. If straight line is all that matters, Dana is a good choice.
The rear end is unsprung weight, and throwing more weight into unsprung weight is a bad thing. The shock will not be able to control it as well as less weight. Also back to my differential consideration comment,as already mentioned, a spool forces the inside and out side wheels to turn at the same speed, this is not how it happens in real life around a corner, one has to slip, if not both, hence why they are bad in the rain and tight turns. If you want a car to turn/handle well, the last thing you want is a spool. A Trac Lock or Wavetrak are the ones I would choose for a 10 sec car, but as mentioned they are pricey, almost $1k alone. I personally have the Wavetrak. I autocross, do track days, street drive it and run at the strip. So I need it.
Just things to make sure you consider. Again so you can spend the money once.
The rear end is unsprung weight, and throwing more weight into unsprung weight is a bad thing. The shock will not be able to control it as well as less weight. Also back to my differential consideration comment,as already mentioned, a spool forces the inside and out side wheels to turn at the same speed, this is not how it happens in real life around a corner, one has to slip, if not both, hence why they are bad in the rain and tight turns. If you want a car to turn/handle well, the last thing you want is a spool. A Trac Lock or Wavetrak are the ones I would choose for a 10 sec car, but as mentioned they are pricey, almost $1k alone. I personally have the Wavetrak. I autocross, do track days, street drive it and run at the strip. So I need it.
Just things to make sure you consider. Again so you can spend the money once.
So for example, taking a turn on a highway at 90-100mph would make my car handle worse with the S60 than it all ready does now with the 10 bolt?
How bad are we talking here?
Thanks for pointing this out.
09-13-2012, 02:58 PM
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One other thing to point out. I see the OP has shocks and STB, so it appears you might be interested in handling. If so, the Dana is not the way to go. If straight line is all that matters, Dana is a good choice.
The rear end is unsprung weight, and throwing more weight into unsprung weight is a bad thing. The shock will not be able to control it as well as less weight. Also back to my differential consideration comment,as already mentioned, a spool forces the inside and out side wheels to turn at the same speed, this is not how it happens in real life around a corner, one has to slip, if not both, hence why they are bad in the rain and tight turns. If you want a car to turn/handle well, the last thing you want is a spool. A Trac Lock or Wavetrak are the ones I would choose for a 10 sec car, but as mentioned they are pricey, almost $1k alone. I personally have the Wavetrak. I autocross, do track days, street drive it and run at the strip. So I need it.
Just things to make sure you consider. Again so you can spend the money once.
The rear end is unsprung weight, and throwing more weight into unsprung weight is a bad thing. The shock will not be able to control it as well as less weight. Also back to my differential consideration comment,as already mentioned, a spool forces the inside and out side wheels to turn at the same speed, this is not how it happens in real life around a corner, one has to slip, if not both, hence why they are bad in the rain and tight turns. If you want a car to turn/handle well, the last thing you want is a spool. A Trac Lock or Wavetrak are the ones I would choose for a 10 sec car, but as mentioned they are pricey, almost $1k alone. I personally have the Wavetrak. I autocross, do track days, street drive it and run at the strip. So I need it.
Just things to make sure you consider. Again so you can spend the money once.
The S60 specs for my install are strictly straight line as is the rest of my suspension.
09-13-2012, 03:00 PM
#20
Let me know what you find out!
Any complaints? any at all?
Damn, I did not know this either until now. Yes, I am definitely concerned with handling.
So for example, taking a turn on a highway at 90-100mph would make my car handle worse with the S60 than it all ready does now with the 10 bolt?
How bad are we talking here?
Thanks for pointing this out.
Any complaints? any at all?
Damn, I did not know this either until now. Yes, I am definitely concerned with handling.
So for example, taking a turn on a highway at 90-100mph would make my car handle worse with the S60 than it all ready does now with the 10 bolt?
How bad are we talking here?
Thanks for pointing this out.
Joe