dbs1

I had intended to just rebuild the 10 bolt in my 02 camaro, but want to get an idea of the cost to get a different rear end that may last longer. Obviously I want to stay close to stock weight, bolt in using my already purchased upgraded tq arms, brakes, shocks ect using the existing 4 channel. Money is a concern and I have not ruled out just rebuilding the existing 10 whose gears and posi were damaged.

Suggestions? Cost? M6 car, no drag racing or hard launches.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

rebuild the 10 bolt with minor upgrades

dbs1

Upgrade suggestions? I already have a t/a cover.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

solid pinion spacer, your TA cover, thats about it

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

For Road racing, a helix style differential will be superiour vs a clutch style diff, especially if you don't want to mess with it once you install it. With that said, the stock Torsen is hard to beat - but the 10 bolt does has it's weeknesses. I'm in the same boat as you trying to decide what to do.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

if your ditching the 10 bolt a 12 bolt will probably be your best bet only because it will eat of the least amount of power . Otherwise i think a mwc fab 9' would be great because its lighter than the 10 bolt but the 9" will eat some power , but will also take big power.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

If you're going to keep the 10 bolt there are two posi units that I can think of that would be good at road racing. A Eaton Truetrac or Auburn makes a Racers Differential p/n 542088. In the Auburn racers diff the center pin floats and in turns it lets the loading on the outside axle transfer across the differential to apply a load to the inside wheels posi cone inside the posi to provide more drive to the unloaded inside wheel. They market this posi unit for road racing only, not drag racing. Auburns are not rebuildable but they have a program called DREX that will replace your posi no questions asked for 4 years with a new unit for the cost of a clutch pack for a Eaton posi (about $100).

Did you get the ARP differential cap studs with the TA cover? if you don't have them Speed Inc sell them (TA1815). Studs always provide more support than bolts no matter the application.

It's a tough call on when to pull the plug on the 10 bolt. You'll never get the money you put into it out of it, at least with a aftermarket rear you'll be able to sell it for close to 2k when you're through with it or move it to your next F-body. I would give Carl at CRP a call to discuss your needs on a road racing rear.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

I have setup several of my MWC fabricated 9 inch rearends for roadcourse and autocross guys. I can make it within a couple pounds of the oem 10 bolt which no other aftermarket rearend can. I have a proven working combo(including a Watts Link locator) for your needs and will get you the performnance and durability you need. It will cost more than rebuilding the 10 bolt again, but when the 10 bolt goes down for the third time you will be money ahead.

Give us a call and we can discuss your needs and budget for the upgrade.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

One thing to keep in mind is that the Ford axle doesn't have C-Clips to break or the axle end-play that stock GM 10 and 12 bolts have. If you're road racing, and you do a lot of turns, GM axles move in and out slightly. On cars with an older rear disc setup (like the patchwork wonder in my sig), this can produce pronounced pad knock back. Brake pads are pushed back from the rotor face, compressing the caliper piston and leaving space between the pad and rotor. In my case, it happens because the caliper slides don't work any more (misaligned and unsealed slide pins + 30 years of use). But on newer cars, if the slides bind even a little bit, they will prevent the caliper from moving back and forth as fast as the axle.

Then, there's the "oh crap" sensation of hitting your brakes and getting far less stopping power than you expected. People usually pump the brakes real quick to make them bite, and then clean their pants out after the racing session.

One way to reduce this is to go with a non c-clip rear, like the Ford 9". Another way is to convert your existing rear to a non c-clip set up. Drag race C-clip eliminators use ball bearings, are not intended for street use, and will eventually leak. So, I'd stay away from them. There are also better sealed c-clip eliminators, but I honestly know nothing about them. They probably work pretty well.

My solution to this problem was to get Moser 10 bolt axles with Ford bearings, and Moser Weld-on axle ends. Cost was just over $600, plus labor, on an otherwise perfect 8.5" GM 10-bolt. Plus, I finally bit the bullet and put 4th gen LS1 rear brakes on this winter.

dailydriver

THIS^^^ if you are not going to rebuild your 10 bolt, as you can get a Wavetrac, or Quaife helical/worm gear type road racing diff for the 9", along with the mentioned Watts Link instead of a Panhard Bar.

I beleive that Wavetrac now has a diff for the 12 bolts, but as mentioned, that will be heavier than the MWC 9.

You could also ask over on frrax.com, as they will NEVER give you a drag racing answer/solution, being an f body road racing site.
Someone on there was trying to get a group buy together to get Quaife to make a high bias diff for the 10 bolts, but he never got the minimum required.

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Wavetrac will the best option for autocrossing and road racing. Its a great piece.