MWC torque Arm hits body reinforcment
09-20-2014, 09:49 AM
#1
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MWC torque Arm hits body reinforcment 1995 Z28, Fab9, short torque arm.
Lowered 3/4 to 1 inch, (I think), never measured a stock F-body.
Rear fender lips are 27-5/16, fronts are 27-1/16. Wheelbase is 100-7/8.
Anyone else's torque arm hit the body above the axle?
Torque arm in front of top axle mounting tabs where the solid rod end threads into the torque arm hits #70 in the attached pic.
#70 is on the back of the sheet metal #9 above the axle.
Car has stock Z-28 bump-stops (new), Koni SA shocks with about 1100 miles on them.
I spaced the bump-stops down 1.05 in. with SLP spacers and al 1/2 inch spacer in an attempt to stop this.
It still hits.
Any constructive ideas???
Lowered 3/4 to 1 inch, (I think), never measured a stock F-body.
Rear fender lips are 27-5/16, fronts are 27-1/16. Wheelbase is 100-7/8.
Anyone else's torque arm hit the body above the axle?
Torque arm in front of top axle mounting tabs where the solid rod end threads into the torque arm hits #70 in the attached pic.
#70 is on the back of the sheet metal #9 above the axle.
Car has stock Z-28 bump-stops (new), Koni SA shocks with about 1100 miles on them.
I spaced the bump-stops down 1.05 in. with SLP spacers and al 1/2 inch spacer in an attempt to stop this.
It still hits.
Any constructive ideas???
09-20-2014, 10:43 AM
#4
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Do you still have the standard coil spring set-up if so you could install the airlift 1000 drag bag kit. I installed it in my 2000 ss because it was bottoming out and killing my bump stops. keep about 5-7 psi in them when at the track and it has worked very well so far. When i want to drive it on the street i can leave it at those pressures or i increase it to about 10-12 psi if i have more than 1 person in the car.
Airlift P/N 60897 fits 1982-2002 Camaro/Firebird about $89.00.
Airlift P/N 60897 fits 1982-2002 Camaro/Firebird about $89.00.
09-22-2014, 08:37 AM
#5
Hands down, the MWC fabricated 9" setup is by far the best body clearing rearend and torque arm package available in the 9" market.
Fact is that when you lower a car sooner or later something will hit. I know for a fact that we have a lot of customers on the Strano 1.2 drop springs and not having issues. Depending on shock valving and roads it is possible and likely for someone with this much lowering to experience minor contact on the rear seatback body brace over bumps.
FWIW MightyMouse setup was a one-off custom bracket as he had to have a different manufacturer's torque arm due to sponsorship.
Fact is that when you lower a car sooner or later something will hit. I know for a fact that we have a lot of customers on the Strano 1.2 drop springs and not having issues. Depending on shock valving and roads it is possible and likely for someone with this much lowering to experience minor contact on the rear seatback body brace over bumps.
FWIW MightyMouse setup was a one-off custom bracket as he had to have a different manufacturer's torque arm due to sponsorship.
09-23-2014, 09:18 AM
#6
hello!
yes mine hit, i had Eric make an adapter for my old tq arm, but i have a feeling the top mount was very similar spot.
i don't consider that car to have been all that low however.
with the rear already in its a pain to section this box piece. i did some hacking, hindsight i should have just market it and popped the rear out of the way.
this is kind of a 'drag race car' part, and ive seen 1000 times where tweaks will need to be made to afford maximum performance.
i don't think i've seen anyones aftermarket tq arm NOT hit somewhere, especially when lowered. my old moser 12b hit much worse.
yes mine hit, i had Eric make an adapter for my old tq arm, but i have a feeling the top mount was very similar spot.
i don't consider that car to have been all that low however.
with the rear already in its a pain to section this box piece. i did some hacking, hindsight i should have just market it and popped the rear out of the way.
this is kind of a 'drag race car' part, and ive seen 1000 times where tweaks will need to be made to afford maximum performance.
i don't think i've seen anyones aftermarket tq arm NOT hit somewhere, especially when lowered. my old moser 12b hit much worse.
10-13-2014, 07:49 AM
#7
I second the air bags, I have the Strano's springs and Koni Dbl adjustable shocks and was always pounding the torque arm bolt heads into the floor. The air bags were the best mod for the money I ever put in the car.
Just a suggestion, I ran the air line up to the gas tank filler compartment, makes a handy place to add air to the bags.
Just a suggestion, I ran the air line up to the gas tank filler compartment, makes a handy place to add air to the bags.
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10-13-2014, 09:47 AM
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Mine hit the brace as well. Prokit/Bilsteins with jounce spacers. I just notched the box 1/2 inch on each side of the witness mark and used touch up paint on the cut edges. If I was to encounter this situation again, I think I would try a poly bump stop first. The stock yellow triangle bumpers are really soft and almost fully compress with the weight of the car on them(no springs).
10-13-2014, 03:13 PM
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Yea, looks like I'll end up sectioning the reinforcement and possibly changing bumpstops. I hate to lose any suspension travel.
Put my Strano springs back on. (I do have a set).
The care dropped 3/4 of an inch which is exactly what I expected.
Since Strano's are typically 1.25 inch drop, my car is only lowered .5 inch from stock height.
It hit even worse with the Strano's.
The stock Z-28 bump-stops are soft. I guess by design. Part of the suspension progression.
My bump-stops are already spaced down 1.05 inch, so I am definitely sectioning the reinforcement.
Did anyone add reinforcement any where else to compensate?
Pretty much done driving it this year. (Michigan).
Winter project now.
Oh, by the way the reinforcement is strong enough that it will not self clearance.
Put my Strano springs back on. (I do have a set).
The care dropped 3/4 of an inch which is exactly what I expected.
Since Strano's are typically 1.25 inch drop, my car is only lowered .5 inch from stock height.
It hit even worse with the Strano's.
The stock Z-28 bump-stops are soft. I guess by design. Part of the suspension progression.
My bump-stops are already spaced down 1.05 inch, so I am definitely sectioning the reinforcement.
Did anyone add reinforcement any where else to compensate?
Pretty much done driving it this year. (Michigan).
Winter project now.
Oh, by the way the reinforcement is strong enough that it will not self clearance.
10-18-2014, 11:36 PM
#12
I used some modified SLP spacers with ES bump stops, and cut out a section on 2 sides of the brace (#70).
I did not add reinforcement any where else to compensate; that area is still really stiff!
The stock Z28 bump stops are to soft since the axle tubes on the MWC Fab 9 don't have flat metal bump stop pads welded to them. Use the ES or Prothane bump stops they're fairly stiff.
If your rear wheels are even slightly forward of being centered in the wheel wells, then lengthen your adjustable LCAs a little bit, along with making sure the T.A. is mounted as close to the center
section as possible. Doing both of these will give you just a little more suspension compression travel before it hits the brace.
If you know exactly where it hits then mark that spot with a black marker and measure out and mark at least 1"(I did 2") on both side where it hits. With the rear-end at full droop cut out the section with a dremel tool using reinforce cut-off wheels, then go over it with a sanding drum/sand paper and /or a small flat file to get ride of the sharp edges. Finish it off with a few coats of paint to prevent rust.
I did not add reinforcement any where else to compensate; that area is still really stiff!
The stock Z28 bump stops are to soft since the axle tubes on the MWC Fab 9 don't have flat metal bump stop pads welded to them. Use the ES or Prothane bump stops they're fairly stiff.
If your rear wheels are even slightly forward of being centered in the wheel wells, then lengthen your adjustable LCAs a little bit, along with making sure the T.A. is mounted as close to the center
section as possible. Doing both of these will give you just a little more suspension compression travel before it hits the brace.
If you know exactly where it hits then mark that spot with a black marker and measure out and mark at least 1"(I did 2") on both side where it hits. With the rear-end at full droop cut out the section with a dremel tool using reinforce cut-off wheels, then go over it with a sanding drum/sand paper and /or a small flat file to get ride of the sharp edges. Finish it off with a few coats of paint to prevent rust.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 10-19-2014 at 12:18 AM.