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Driveshaft dilemma

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Old 01-13-2015, 09:20 PM
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Running a T56 and Moser 9 and have been for about 3 years. I was under the car tonight and noticed my driveshaft is VERY close to bottoming out in the trans, approx. 1/8 inch. It hasn't been an issue as Iv only run the car once at the track but now I have a Quicktime bellhousing and it was a little taller and has reduced the play to the point that I cant bottom out the shaft and remove it from the pinion on the diff. without some difficulty. Long story short I "read" Id need a 1 inch longer driveshaft with the rear when I got it and had one made . It measures 42 inches eye to eye and has a 38inch tube, its 3 inch steel as a 3.5 inch will not clear the exhaust system. Question is does anyone sell 3 inch shafts? seems they are all 3.5 inch aluminum or carbon fiber which is pricey. My concern is itll bottom out on a hard launch and destroy lots of stuff. I have adj LCA's but the rear wheels are centered in the wheel wells and feel I need more room then what I could gain with adjustments. If I get it shortened, how much movement do we want between output shaft and slip yoke? To anyone running a T56 and Moser 9 what is your eye to eye length?

Last edited by BigDB; 01-14-2015 at 01:41 AM.
Old 01-14-2015, 08:06 AM
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Yeah buddy it sounds like you need at least a 1/2" shorter shaft. The same DS makers that make the aluminum ones typically make steel and chromoly versions (3 inch) as well.
Old 01-14-2015, 10:07 AM
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What about some adjustable LCAs, if you have the tire clearance you could move the rearend aft a little. Nevermind, I just read your whole post and you've considered this.

I talk to ground control every day at O'Hare, I don't know how you guys do that job. Much Respect.

Last edited by guppymech; 01-14-2015 at 10:14 AM.
Old 01-14-2015, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Yeah buddy it sounds like you need at least a 1/2" shorter shaft. The same DS makers that make the aluminum ones typically make steel and chromoly versions (3 inch) as well.
That's defiantly what it looks like, I'll get in touch with a few sponsors and get it figured out. Was kinda hoping one would reply with suggestions.

Originally Posted by guppymech
What about some adjustable LCAs, if you have the tire clearance you could move the rearend aft a little. Nevermind, I just read your whole post and you've considered this.

I talk to ground control every day at O'Hare, I don't know how you guys do that job. Much Respect.
I wish it was as simple as that.

I absolutely love the job, we are nowhere near as busy as O'Hare but we push quite a few OPS, 6th busiest tower in the AF.
Old 01-14-2015, 04:57 PM
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While you where under the car did you have the rear end hanging on the shocks with the body supported on jack stands? If so the distance between the trans to rear end yoke will be shorter than when the rear suspension is supporting the car. With my S60 I can't install the DS with the rear hanging but I can just get it seated into the rear yoke with the car supported under the rear end.
If you had the car supported by the rear end that sucks that the Quicktime bellhousing pushed the tranny rearward enough to mess with the DS. For the money they charge the bellhousing with block plate should be the same length as the stock setup. I'm thinking of picking one up for my LT1 and don't really want to mess with the DS.

Last edited by guppymech; 01-14-2015 at 05:04 PM.
Old 01-14-2015, 06:15 PM
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I had jack stands under the axle, even with the rear hanging its close. I'm not blaming the bell housing, it was close to stock height but enough combined with the longer shaft to have an issue.
Old 01-14-2015, 06:30 PM
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I can help You with the driveshaft dilemna or You can call PST in Florida (727) 442-1711.

Let Me know,
Carl
Old 01-14-2015, 08:05 PM
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Shorten it ASAP, prolly < $100. Consider the alternative, the trans case will be the weak link. Think about what the rear wheels/axle/driveshaft are trying to do every time you goose the throttle...
Old 01-15-2015, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Shorten it ASAP, prolly < $100. Consider the alternative, the trans case will be the weak link. Think about what the rear wheels/axle/driveshaft are trying to do every time you goose the throttle...
This is why Im trying to figure out the correct length. . . your telling me what I already know.
Old 01-15-2015, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Carl at CRP
I can help You with the driveshaft dilemna or You can call PST in Florida (727) 442-1711.

Let Me know,
Carl
I'll give ya a call/message. I'm deploying soon so I'll have to fix when I get back but I like having the info I need. Thanks
Old 01-15-2015, 08:00 PM
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Optimum is 3/4" free play (stick out) from the tailshaft housing. I've only used 3" steel shafts with 1330 joints, never had a failure. Google brought up several places in Tulsa and OKC...
Old 01-15-2015, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Optimum is 3/4" free play (stick out) from the tailshaft housing. I've only used 3" steel shafts with 1330 joints, never had a failure. Google brought up several places in Tulsa and OKC...
I'll be giving them a call to see if they offer shortening services. Appreciate the help



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