strange s60 with strac or not
01-24-2015, 11:16 PM
#1
strange s60 with strac or not I need a rear asap and for the price the s60 with strac sounds amazing but searching the forums has brought nothing but bad reviews. My rears going to die any day and I need a good rear asap for my daily driven 6speed camaro. Btw I should have atleast 600 at the wheels with my new setup im just afraid to put it on the dyno until I get a rear.
01-25-2015, 06:51 AM
#3
I need a rear asap and for the price the s60 with strac sounds amazing but searching the forums has brought nothing but bad reviews. My rears going to die any day and I need a good rear asap for my daily driven 6speed camaro. Btw I should have atleast 600 at the wheels with my new setup im just afraid to put it on the dyno until I get a rear.
I've not seen the bad reviews. We have lots of happy customers with the S60 and most are using the Strac, the rest chose a spool.
My thoughts too, its not only a very good posi but I know of nothing better anywhere at any price.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...k-savings.html
01-25-2015, 05:54 PM
#6
Here's a positive review for yeah jus install a S60 with a spool in a 1998 camaro. Install was just as easy as removing the 10 bolt. It's freaking awesome, no issues what so ever..
Just contact Carl he will take care of you....
Go S60 and never look back...
Just contact Carl he will take care of you....
Go S60 and never look back...
01-25-2015, 06:06 PM
#7
As Carl said the S-trac is great but at some elevated hp on slicks for a full on drag car a spool would be better, but that is true of any posi. I work with a guy that runs a Dana 60/spool to 9.0 @ 150 with a trans brake (not F-body). No worries with a S60!
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01-25-2015, 09:17 PM
#8
I'm not saying there are none, I just cannot find them nor have I heard of them. Out of several hundred S60 customers I've had 4 ever complain and 2 had to send their S60 with Strac back to Strange.
Carl
01-26-2015, 09:06 AM
#10
We have sold several S-60 with the S-Trac and I can't recall one dissatisfied customer to this point.. We have been part of the S-Trac since before it hit the market testing it in one of our fabricated nine inches in a 9 second 6-speed F-Body and it took all the abuse we could give it with wheels up launches..
01-26-2015, 10:34 AM
#11
I bought an s60 with an s-trac from Carl at CRP last year and have been extremley happy with it. He told me he has customers with some serious HP using the s-trac and has not heard any issues with them. The install was cake and its very quiet. For the price IMO you cant beat it.
01-26-2015, 11:10 AM
#12
I put my s60 in about 1 year ago. I have since put a lot of miles on it. Havent had to touch a thing. Everything factory bolted right in including my 4 channel abs. I ordered mine with the axle bearings loose so I could drive my car till it got here. I didn't have time to send the backing plates in and I wasn't gonna buy new ones. Install was easy with a press. Factory everything bolted right up. No complaints at all. I got mine with the 4.10 gears. I even got the correct driveshaft from them with it with u joints and the yoke ready to bolt in and roll.
01-26-2015, 12:26 PM
#13
S60 is for sure the best bang for the buck right now, and we have never had any failure issues or complaints for that matter. It is a heavy beast for sure, but if you are just a weekend street guy the extra cost of a lightweight 9" rear like the MWC fabricated setup you will pay a bit more for that.
01-26-2015, 01:27 PM
#14
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I don't agree. The objective of 95% of people here is to go faster in one way or another. Weight (weight, parasitic drag, and weight causing parasitic drag) is the enemy of everyone wanting better performance. The objective of the fastest are go the fastest you can with the lightest/reliable parts possible. For perspective, your car will always perform better with a stock 10 bolt. Why? It's lighter and has very low parasitic drag. Is it reliable? Well that depends on HP level. At the point you need something better I think you should choose the lightest but still reliable part to replace your inadequate part. I chose a 12 bolt, first with a posi, now swapped to a spool. And for everyone who carries your opinion it gives me an advantage to go faster then you. So thank you for that!
01-27-2015, 12:07 PM
#15
I don't agree. The objective of 95% of people here is to go faster in one way or another. Weight (weight, parasitic drag, and weight causing parasitic drag) is the enemy of everyone wanting better performance. The objective of the fastest are go the fastest you can with the lightest/reliable parts possible. For perspective, your car will always perform better with a stock 10 bolt. Why? It's lighter and has very low parasitic drag. Is it reliable? Well that depends on HP level. At the point you need something better I think you should choose the lightest but still reliable part to replace your inadequate part. I chose a 12 bolt, first with a posi, now swapped to a spool. And for everyone who carries your opinion it gives me an advantage to go faster then you. So thank you for that!
When I stated that the extra weight is the only negative what I meant is, the rear is awesome (especially in a straight line), but there are lighter options out there that are still stronger than a 10-bolt for not much more cost wise, such as the 12-bolt, fab 9 or a stamped 9. In some cases 60lbs of unsprung weight is worse than the parasitic loss of power.
For the record, I'm probably one of a few people who will agree with you that the 12-bolt is a good rear end if used properly.
02-03-2015, 05:26 PM
#17
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That's why I specified auto-x and road racing. Do you see a lot of fast guys running the heaviest option around laguna, sebring or your local auto-x? No. Depending on your skill level an extra 60lbs being controlled by your shocks/springs might cause some different handling characteristics that aren't beneficial to your overall lap time. Can you change up your suspension to compensate? Probably.
When I stated that the extra weight is the only negative what I meant is, the rear is awesome (especially in a straight line), but there are lighter options out there that are still stronger than a 10-bolt for not much more cost wise, such as the 12-bolt, fab 9 or a stamped 9. In some cases 60lbs of unsprung weight is worse than the parasitic loss of power.
When I stated that the extra weight is the only negative what I meant is, the rear is awesome (especially in a straight line), but there are lighter options out there that are still stronger than a 10-bolt for not much more cost wise, such as the 12-bolt, fab 9 or a stamped 9. In some cases 60lbs of unsprung weight is worse than the parasitic loss of power.
In most cases they are not even allowed to make those power levels by the rules, and in some cases (NASA CMC/CMC2), they must actually reduce the power levels from BONE STOCK (with inlet restrictors/using STOCK cast iron exhaust manifolds/etc.) in order to run legally in those classes! (And they are randomly dyno checked, and OBD plug in scanned during the season to keep them honest.)
Of course the exceptions to this are the AMLS C5/6/7Rs, and the NASA AIX class cars, which DO make big, reliable, and usable power, but they are using very light and specialized, but still very strong, cooled, rear centers/axles.
