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Bent Axle

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Old 06-19-2015, 09:03 AM
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Default Bent Axle

So last night, I made the mistake of driving my car in the rain. Doing about 50mph, hit a slight bump in fresh pavement on a wet road and spun it into the center median. No damage other than a potential bent axle or warped wheel. No noise is coming from the axle, so I believe the bearing was spared. Reason I say it's one or the other is...post accident, I've got a slow speed wobble from 0-20mph. Yet to determine what side it's on but I'm assuming it's the drivers side axle as that's the side that took the brunt of the blow. Car tracks fine, just has the wobble. In fact, I think the alignment is a little better...haha. Now, I've done some browsing before posting this, just looking to see if I understand the process of replacing it correctly. Never had to do it before.

Looking to replace axle and seal. Stock 10 bolt w/ 3.42's.

1) Jack/lift car up
2) Remove wheel
3) Remove brake caliper
4) Remove brake rotor
5) Remove e-brake pad? (watched a video on how to do it on a tahoe, both are SRA...so I'm assuming it's similar)
6) Remove diff cover
7) Remove pinion rod bolt
8) Remove pinion rod
9) Remove axle c-clip
10) Remove axle
11) Remove seal
12) Reverse process with replacement parts

Purchase list:

Used 28 spline 10 bolt axle w/ 4 channel ABS
New diff cover seal
New axle seal
Gear oil
GM friction additive

I'll test the wheel first before buying parts to confirm what it is.

Last edited by mad-hatter; 06-19-2015 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Correction to my post.
Old 06-19-2015, 10:05 AM
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sounds good you shouldnt have to pull the e-brake stuff. Just remove the caliper, abs wiring and rotor then release the c-clip and pull the axle out. if you have some extra cash you could do a set of the moser upgraded hd axles for 300 a set iirc.

fwiw you have a torsen diff, so you dont need friction modifier but it wont hurt it. most synthetics also come with some sort of modifier in them
Old 06-19-2015, 10:56 AM
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Any sponsors that you know of that supply that axle set? I might just go ahead and do both for ***** and giggles.
Old 06-19-2015, 12:07 PM
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You can also use 4 channel axles as they are the same dimensions.

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Old 06-19-2015, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
You can also use 4 channel axles as they are the same dimensions.

Meant to say 4-channel. Still learning the car and all of the terms that associate with various parts. ABS and TCS on my car.
Old 06-19-2015, 04:35 PM
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Then you're limited to 4 channel axles. Any aftermarket 4 channel axles you might buy come without the rings. The rings are no longer available so you would have to remove them from your original axle/s and install it/them on the replacement axle/s.
Old 06-21-2015, 08:02 AM
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http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-A10...er-A102806.htm

Here are the Moser 10 bolt axles that are machined for the reluctor rings. Bob
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob@BruteSpeed
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-A10...er-A102806.htm

Here are the Moser 10 bolt axles that are machined for the reluctor rings. Bob
Awesome! Thanks for that links.

Just a few questions...

Approximately how long will this job take for a first timer?

How hard is it to remove and swap the reluctor rings between the old and new axles?

I'm assuming these are the stock length press in studs: http://shop.brutespeed.com/ARP-100-7...P-100-7703.htm?
Old 06-21-2015, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mad-hatter
Awesome! Thanks for that links.

Just a few questions...

Approximately how long will this job take for a first timer?

How hard is it to remove and swap the reluctor rings between the old and new axles?

I'm assuming these are the stock length press in studs: http://shop.brutespeed.com/ARP-100-7...P-100-7703.htm?

You're welcome. It will probably take you three or four hours. The reluctor rings pop off usually with a pry bar and a little nudging, but you will need a shop press to install the new rings. The stock studs are 12mm. Thanks. Bob
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:24 AM
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before you just start throwing new parts at it, do some investigative work. You could have possibly bent the axle tubes/housing.
Old 06-24-2015, 08:51 PM
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From some driving around, we're beginning to the thing that it's potentially a bent tie-rod or something up front as there is serious steering wheel vibration. Turning left, not that bad. Turning right, you can feel it. Full lock in left turns (e.g. making a u-turn) the right wheel will scrape.

So long as the damage isn't extensive front or rear, I've come to the conclusion to let the car go. I've thrown enough money at this car to only have more stuff break and have more set backs. Going to cut my losses and call it a day and find a better vehicle to work on. Looking at between 900-1500 bucks in insurance settlement from getting tagged this past Wednesday. Pocket the cash, let the car go for 3500-4500 bucks, look for a cleaner Z28 or SS.
Old 06-29-2015, 09:49 PM
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Welp, no longer gonna sell the car as it is a simple fix. Looks like my catfish has been hanging around nuclear plants for a little too long... Tire grew a tumor after putting the car in ditch. All four rims are in great shape. Neither axle bent. Both tie rods straight as an arrow. Going to get a tire for it...get it aligned...and hoon around. No more driving in the rain. Three points of fender well rub. Glad to know everything mechanical/rotating is in one piece.

EDIT: Not sure why the pictures are rotated...but yeah. Productive night!
Attached Thumbnails Bent Axle-img_0966.jpg   Bent Axle-img_0967.jpg   Bent Axle-img_0968.jpg   Bent Axle-img_0969.jpg  



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