'99 T/A WOT

My mostly stock '99 T/A is in a dealer's shop for some warranty work (unrelated to driveshaft). They are telling me that I also have a groove cut into the driveshaft from something rubbing it and are advising it to be replaced. Dealer cost is approx. $450. I will be going to the shop today after work to take a look at how deep/bad the groove is. If it does look pretty bad and I want to replace the driveshaft my dilemma is:

1. Whether or not to by an aftermarket D.S. at anywhere from $300-400 and have a stronger, lighter unit.
2. Get the GM replacement from the dealer and not have to worry about any B.S. issues in the future that an aftermarket one will void any warranty on related parts of the drivetrain.

I have 25,000 miles left on the warranty.

Should I spent less and get a better D.S. but potentially void warranty, or spend more for stock and retain warranty?

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

Blue Hawk

I'd go with the aftermarket DS. This way, you won't have to do it again when the warranty will be gone.

I don't really see why an aftermarket DS could cause a tranny or rear end failure. Anyway, if something break, they got to prove that your DS was the cause of the failure. If they can't, they have to honnor the warranty.

Two years ago, I had 4 synchros replaced under warranty in my M6 with the dealer knowing that I had 4.10's at that time.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

Well i've heard if the driveshaft was to break from the transmission it can cause some horrible damage to the transmission. But I doubt an aftermarket driveshift, one that is stronger and installed correctly would give you problems. But if it were me I would not install the aftermarket driveshaft due to as you said, void warrenty. Some dealers will be cool about aftermarket stuff being installed, as blue hawks experiance, but some are just a pain in the ***. Be safe and go with the gm drive shaft and keep the warrenty.

Blue Hawk

That was my tought when I wrote the previous post. His 10 bolts rear end will obviously give away long before he can snap a good aftermarket driveshaft (especially with stock engine). But you're right. IF, by some misfortune, he end up with a defective driveshaft or a faulty installation, then any damage caused to the other drivetrain components would not be covered by the warranty.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

I was agreeing with you. But I still would not get an aftermarket driveshaft when he has 25,000 miles left on the warrenty.

'99 T/A WOT

Well, I've now seen the condition of the D.S. and it doesn't just have a groove (meaning~ small) it has about 3/4" wide channel that has been worn down. It's not incredibly deep, I'm just guessing maybe .015" deep, but it is quite wide. I'm thinking that I'll probably replace it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to which manufactures to get and through what vendor/s? It would be for a stock A4 car with stock rear end.

Does anyone have any experience with a Spohn "Extreame-Duty" D.S.? I'm leaning towards this brand.

'99 T/A WOT

I always feel funny about TTT, but I'd like to see if anyone has any suggestions.

TIA

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

My .02 would be to get a high quality aftermarket DS. IMO, the odds of a DS causing you warranty problems are very slim. So with that said, the question becomes, "what are you planning on using the car for?" because it does make a difference.

Your options are something like this (this is quick and off top of my head, so make sure to do your own research to confirm):

1) Aluminum - lightweight, higher critical speed than steel, larger diameter than stock (usually 3.5" or 4"), "medium" expensive, stronger than stock (~30%).
Good resources: Denny's MMC, Mark Williams, LPE, etc.
Usage: Street, autox, road race, mild drag race.

2) Steel - heavy, lower critical speed, usually same diameter as stock (3"), very strong, less expensive.
Good resources: Denny's Nitrous Ready, Billingsley, Strange, Mark Williams, etc.
Usage: Mainly drag racing-only applications, okay for street use.

3) Carbon Fiber - very light, highest critical speed, larger diameter than stock (usually), good strength, susceptible to damage, expensive.
Good resources: Mark Williams, ACPT, etc.
Usage: Mainly for high speed applications (ORR, road race, etc) or extremely low gearing.

HTH

'99 T/A WOT

Fulton 1, thanks for the reply. My intentions and use would be:

1.A. (Intentions) Replace worn / damaged DS. Don't want to wait till it fails to do something about it.

1.B. Since I'm going to be spending money, it goes without saying that I'm not going to spend it on a stock replacement DS.

2. (Use) Daily driver, rare drag action.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

What is the breaking point for the aluminum DS? Like for instance what kind of 60' can it handle?

hotrod44_4u

u know

99SilverZ

iTrader: (13)

I know this is an old thread but to input my opinion, I will suggest an aftermarket DS. They are stronger and you won't have to worry about it anymore. From what I see your car is a 1999 model. Regardless of how many miles you have left on your warranty, (unless you have an extended warranty) your manufactures warranty is out. 3yr/30K for GM vehicles except Cadillac. But before you replace your DS, find out how it got damaged. You don't want your replacement DS to become damaged too. My DS had a groove in it from the E-brake cable bracket in the tunnel. My torque arm finally gave and cause the rear end to pivot up causing the DS to scrape the bracket.

blkSS98

I've seen an aftermarket aluminum DS take 8 tenths off a S197 mustang's track time, so that's what I'd go with. Even if you aren't racing it there must be other benifits.