How crappy is the 10-bolt?
#1
How crappy is the 10-bolt?
I've got a few guys telling me that even if you get a little traction, they blow. Then there's other guys running in the 11s and 10s with gears and a girdle, and leaving off a t-brake with no problem. I'm reading stuff on here, and some say there's work fine, and other saying they're junk. I'm just wondering if mine would do alright with a girdle, solid pinion space, and some nice gears...I'll be running on BFG drag radials, probably launching at 3-3.5k and possible spraying 125-150 out of the hole if I can get traction. Should it be ok? Basically an LS1 with some bolt ons and spray. Maybe a cam in the future.
I just don't have 2200 to drop on a moser right now...650 or so is more reasonable to get the 10-bolt set up.
I just don't have 2200 to drop on a moser right now...650 or so is more reasonable to get the 10-bolt set up.
#2
Launching!
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is your car an a4 or an m6? if you ocme out of the hole on a shot with an m6 your days are numbered and its gonna blow most likely sooner than later. auto cars leave alot softer than m6 cars do. i blew my 10 bolt with out eve ntaking it to the track and the same exact rear( i swapped with someone) ran multiple 10 and 9 second passes in an a4 car off the footbrake.
#4
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as previously mentioned, m6 cars blow the 10 bolt apart in no time. You will constantly hear of people breaking them even during street races. It happens. Go auto if you persist on keeping the 10bolt.
#5
A freind of mine tryed to blow up his rearend. I mean tryed with slicks on VHT in the street. I couldnt count how many times it was launch it was a head and cam car.
It was Dead hooking, and the wheels were getting pulled up a little. Just wait till it goes or stay on street tires so your rear stays together longer..
It was Dead hooking, and the wheels were getting pulled up a little. Just wait till it goes or stay on street tires so your rear stays together longer..
#6
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I run BFG's on mine.. leaving at 5000+ rpm (slipping the clutch) with no problems.. the key is keeping the shock off the drivetrain.. let the tires spin or the clutch slip a little and the crappy 10 bolt will go farther than alot of people think. Eventually you might chip a tooth on the posi making it not want to lock up right (happened to me) but it won't leave you broken down, it just won't hook anymore. (I went with an Eaton posi finally a month ago because of this)
I've gone 1.69 60' more than once on 100% stock suspension with a stock 10 bolt with 4.10's and an LS6 clutch at full weight.
I've gone 1.69 60' more than once on 100% stock suspension with a stock 10 bolt with 4.10's and an LS6 clutch at full weight.
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#9
TECH Junkie
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I'm a little concerned about this too. I'm going up to about 390 rwhp this year. I autox so I don't do any hard launches. I'm in another event though on nitto 555rIIs which are the road race tire even on the rear. I launch off of those from the pretty slippery track as it is. I'm thinking I should be ok for now. I would guess that the stock clutch would go before the rear end.
One reason why I want to hopefully keep the stock 10bolt is because T2R differentials arent available for the other aftermarket types.
I am wondering if there are certain mods I can do to reinforce the 10 bolt. I've heard aftermarket torque arms help. I currently have subframe connectors. Not sure if reinforcing the front and rear frames together with the connectors also helps?
One reason why I want to hopefully keep the stock 10bolt is because T2R differentials arent available for the other aftermarket types.
I am wondering if there are certain mods I can do to reinforce the 10 bolt. I've heard aftermarket torque arms help. I currently have subframe connectors. Not sure if reinforcing the front and rear frames together with the connectors also helps?
#10
On The Tree
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Well, I can say if you have over 450rwhp it won't last long. Mine went out on two hard launches and I really never layed into it all the way. Don't spend the money on it if you have anywhere near 400 plus it will just be a matter of time.