XtinctZ28

iTrader: (57)

What Pinion angle is everyone running when setting up an adjustable torque arm. Right now mine is dead flat on the indicator at "0". Should I put a negative angle on it for more traction or leave it alone?

Just curious, not sure what to do...suggestions?

Thanks

Joker

From my experience and if anyone knows different(please chime in) setting it at -2 to -3 is the perfect spot for the pinion angle. My rearend vibration on my ten bolt went away immediately when I set it and with the s60 set at the same angle ( -3 degrees ) I have experienced no problems at all, great traction, no vibration at any speed, responsive, and all components have checked out great after several 5000 rpm plus clutch dumps at the track. Hope this helps.

blkbird_WS-6

iTrader: (14)

I set mine at -3.

XtinctZ28

iTrader: (57)

Awesome, thanks!

EPP

iTrader: (22)

-2 is what we set most of them at. Bob

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Random Tech here, -2 since 2002.

2000slpss

iTrader: (27)

dont leave it at 0 because you will ruin your u joints.

SLowETz

iTrader: (12)

This has me confused. You're not reading the dial indicator's value and calling that your PA are you?

Reading the DI from the driver side of the car:
Place DI on Drive shaft. Place DI on pinion flange. Note whether you are a +(up) or -(down) position for each reading. Subtract 1st reading(DS) from second reading(Pinion flange)and THIS is your PA.

-2* here with IC set on KILL

XtinctZ28

iTrader: (57)

Not to argue with you but...

I thought it was the other way around. To get TRUE PA subtract the Pinion Angle from the Driveshaft Angle. This is what I did. I have no bind at all I am at a flat 0 degrees.

I want to preload but I didnt know what everyone suggested for the True Pinion Angle. I have heard between -1 and -3 and that is what I was curious about.

I do appreciate the your time to make sure I was on the right track.

Later

XtinctZ28

iTrader: (57)

Am I wrong here? I hope I don't screw this **** up.

co.6z28

iTrader: (1)

-2 is money

peterock98

iTrader: (25)

-1 for the street -3 for the track.

Blue Hawk

Mine is set at -3

CW00BlackTA

iTrader: (31)

Whenever this question gets asked, you should also ask the method they used to measure it--there are at least three that I have seen used on here. The whole idea is to transfer power efficiently from the engine to the tires while keeping the geometry within the operating limits of the u-joints. You want the front and back joint angles to be equal and less than 2.5 degrees but not zero degrees. Zero would only happen if the engine crank, trans shaft, drive shaft and pinion were all on a straight line. Here's the way I've done it...

Measure angles from same side of car. First measure angle at face of crank pulley. This is normal to crank shaft which is parallel to trans shaft. Then measure angle at face of pinion yoke. This is normal to pinion. I want these angles to be the same when the car is under load. From this point while the car is at rest, you adjust the torque arm to move the pinion downward between 0 and 2 degrees depending on your intended usage. Some even go to 3 degrees for racing. Mine is pretty finicky and I get vibration if I go past -1 degree. This downward adjustment is to account for suspension loading while under load. Less angle for highway cruising, more angle for drag racing. Different angles to accomodate different suspension loads. Maximum power is transferred through the drivetrain when the pinion is parallel to the crankshaft at any given load condition--just depends on what you want to optimize for. FYI -- The crankshaft and trans mainshaft are parallel by design (the engine and trans are bolted together).