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Quick break down, clearly there is 100's of types of exhaust sytems and configurations but this will give you a good idea on which cross member will work for you. We do have a what we call a turbo crossmember for those running front exit exhaust.
Need a quote on a rear end, post it up in here as we are certain after you crunch the numbers and compare apples to apples that the Midwest Chassis fabricated nine inch is the way to go.
For those looking for a rear end but can't afford to purchase it all at once. This is not an issue with us because we allow you to put down a deposit and you can make payments any time you are able to. No interest involved and it doesn't matter how long it takes you to pay it off.
This way you can build the rear end you always wanted instead of settling for what you may just be able to afford today. We have helped hundreds of customers this way over the years.
Quick question... If I have the H1136A Ends, what are all my brake options?
Originally Posted by ssvert99
The 1136 ends are for the full race double row style bearing, and is a 3.350 size. This is what I used on rearend builds like Eddie Krawiec and Ohio Boys where you are using 40 spline axles and have a bunch of power. Brakes are limited to the best race brakes on the market... Strange.
Also, what center section could I use? Im going with a built TR6060 and something in the 1200-1500 rwhp range
It's been a while since I posted this but the rearend is in the car already. Now I just need help choosing a few parts for it...
Starting with the coilovers, If am trying to run a more "highway setup" on the car as opposed to all drag racing, what could I use for the rears? I was looking into the AFCO brand stuff but I believe this rearend uses a different rear setup now?
I also need a rear brake kit that will fit. I bought a Kore3 C6 Z06 Big Brake Kit for the front a while back so I would like something that could match up to that. If I need to change my front brakes to match rears, I can do that. As I said, I would just like something more for "highway" use (roll racing).
Last I believe, I noticed that the rear lower control arms are a bit angled which is probably because of how short the axles are. Does my setup require offset bushings or normal?
Kore3 big brake kit installed onto one of our fabricated nine inch's getting ready to go out the door. Then to assemble another one with their brake kit after that. Seems like we do a couple of these a month.
Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2
The Kore3 is a super nice brake kit but definitely not as light as the Strange Race Brake Kits we sell and install.
The rear end you purchased isn't a stock bolt in rear end that's why you see a few differences such as narrowed LCA bushings, a chassis mounted ARB, and rear mounted in board shocks. Nothing on that particular set up is just bolt in.
So as far as shocks you must have a custom length shock that has a 1" bearing upper and lower mount. It attaches to the housing on the two bars that run from the LCA to the center of the housing on each side then the upper portion of the shock attaches to the ARB crossbar that has to be welded into place.
As for the Kore brakes I do not know if they have a brake backing plate that will work with those housing ends. That is something you will have to ask them.
I can get you the wider bushings for the chassis side if you are planning on modifying that location, just let me know.
The rear end you purchased isn't a stock bolt in rear end that's why you see a few differences such as narrowed LCA bushings, a chassis mounted ARB, and rear mounted in board shocks. Nothing on that particular set up is just bolt in.
So as far as shocks you must have a custom length shock that has a 1" bearing upper and lower mount. It attaches to the housing on the two bars that run from the LCA to the center of the housing on each side then the upper portion of the shock attaches to the ARB crossbar that has to be welded into place.
As for the Kore brakes I do not know if they have a brake backing plate that will work with those housing ends. That is something you will have to ask them.
I can get you the wider bushings for the chassis side if you are planning on modifying that location, just let me know.
Thanks for the quick reply. So to get a measurement for the rear coilovers, I need to install the ARB crossbar first, correct? There isn't a "usual" measurement that I can use?
I haven't heard my builder say anything about modifying the chassis side mounting points. Is that something I should bring up with him? Like to beef the tabs up or something?
Thank you for your input. Sorry if I have silly questions.
Thanks for the quick reply. So to get a measurement for the rear coilovers, I need to install the ARB crossbar first, correct? There isn't a "usual" measurement that I can use?
I haven't heard my builder say anything about modifying the chassis side mounting points. Is that something I should bring up with him? Like to beef the tabs up or something?
Thank you for your input. Sorry if I have silly questions.
There can't be a one shock works for all, it is dependent upon your ride height and placing the upper bar in the vehicle correctly. Sure we have a rough idea but why would anyone go through the trouble and not do it properly?
It's hard telling why the customer that got that set up originally got two sets of narrowed bushings I can only assume he had plans of modifying the chassis side as well. Is it needed? That all depends on what you are doing but commonly no.
Please keep in mind that we also sell the very popular Strange S60 and won't mess up your order by lack of knowledge and expect you to fix it on your own like other vendors selling the S60. If you want to order one that is correct please give us a call (309)382-6252
We now have purchasing with our online store and Ebay store, not all products are listed yet and we are uncertain if housings will be listed on there for purchase as we still prefer a hands on approach to selling certain items as we want to make sure our customers not only understand what they are buying but only spend what they need and not go overboard.
Like always we still offer a deposit on our fabricated rear ends and race front ends and you can pay on it when ever you feel, no interest and no late charges. Just us trying to help everyone out as we understand how expensive this hobby is.
Location: Some where in the Corn Fields of Illinois
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Here are some pictures of my new Midwest Chassis Fab 9 with a Strange Full Floater style hub.
After SGMP last fall, I worked with Eric @ Midwest chassis on a new rearend for this upcoming season. We made some considerable updates with this change over, specifically stepping up to a Strange floater axle setup. Still running a 40 spline axle, just now the floater takes all the rotational weight of the tire/wheel. Much safer style of rearend, (expensive) but it will have no issues at all with the new upcoming HP. This complete housing was also built entirely of chrome moly plate, vs the standard mild steel housings. We also built a new center section with only the best parts available from Strange. Everything has been REM finished and microblued for reduced friction.
We also switched from a PST Carbon Driveshaft to a Mark Williams 7075 Bonded Aluminum Shaft. After some careful consideration and research, I chose to go the Aluminum route.
01-15-2016, 08:18 AM
