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what options to get with moser 9in??

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Old 03-20-2008, 01:17 PM
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Default what options to get with moser 9in??

I'm going to be ordering my 9in soon when i get my tax returns, i'm ditching my gear vendor cuz i need money. then i'm going to get a new driveshaft to go from the th400 to the 9in. I drive the car around town on the weekends in nice weather but thats it, oh and take to the track.

I'm planning on getting it with 3.50's, trutrac, and lca drop brackets.

what i wanted to know, is it worth paying the 175 for the 3 channel abs?
also should i get it with the aluminum center section? advantages?

also what is the backbrace option?

anthing alse i should consider?
Old 03-20-2008, 02:12 PM
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Drin plug. The back brace is to add strength to the housing. As for ABS, tat is your decision. If it is a track and nice day car I would ditch it. You can pull the ABS module and save some weight. What are your plans for a sway bar? You may want to add that too. Powder coating is also nice as it will look beter and not rust.

On the center section, both have pros and cons. Aluminum is a bit more fragile than steel. In your position Aluminum would work fine and save some weight.

PM me and I can answer any other questions you may have. We can also get you a great deal on a rear. Our fabricated housing is also an option.
Old 03-20-2008, 02:31 PM
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I got mine with an aluminum center, lca brackets, no abs.
Old 03-20-2008, 02:32 PM
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If it is your car you just cruise around town and drag race and only use it on weekends stop light to stop light, I would run more gear and if you ever plan to get serious about racing it down the road maybe consider a spool to save some money.

At your power level now you don't need a back brace, but if you ever plan to go faster and add more power then it would be a good idea to just order it when you get the rear end new and you can run an aluminum center section, which it's only benefit is to save some weight, the nodular iron center section is stronger and more durable, but the aluminum section is still strong and we run one in a car that's been in the low 9's.

I personally an going to go with the PRO nodular iron strange center section when I get mine, with a spool and 40 spline gun drilled axles, get the relocation brackets, drain plug and the anti roll bar brackets if you're using a stock style anti roll bar. I don't have abs or traction control and haven't had it since 1998 so I never notice it was even gone.
Old 03-20-2008, 04:03 PM
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Oh yeah, I got the drain plug too.
Old 03-20-2008, 04:52 PM
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Get the fill plug on the back as well....the torque arm mount makes the fill plug on the third member a real bitch to get to.
Old 03-20-2008, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RAGENZ28
If it is your car you just cruise around town and drag race and only use it on weekends stop light to stop light, I would run more gear and if you ever plan to get serious about racing it down the road maybe consider a spool to save some money.

At your power level now you don't need a back brace, but if you ever plan to go faster and add more power then it would be a good idea to just order it when you get the rear end new and you can run an aluminum center section, which it's only benefit is to save some weight, the nodular iron center section is stronger and more durable, but the aluminum section is still strong and we run one in a car that's been in the low 9's.

I personally an going to go with the PRO nodular iron strange center section when I get mine, with a spool and 40 spline gun drilled axles, get the relocation brackets, drain plug and the anti roll bar brackets if you're using a stock style anti roll bar. I don't have abs or traction control and haven't had it since 1998 so I never notice it was even gone.
Good recommendations! Bob
Old 03-21-2008, 03:41 PM
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thanks for the responses. I'm just gonna get the standard housing, trutrac w/31splines, 3.70s, lca drop brackets, no abs. maybe a drian plug

I have adjustable BMR lca's, panhard bar, and UMI adjustable torque arm to go on.

not sure what to do as far as sway bar or traction bars ? if anything else would be nessasary or use jsut the stock sway bar with exhaust clamps..
Old 03-21-2008, 06:51 PM
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The BMR Xtreme anti roll bar makes a big difference in getting the car to come out straight. If you plan on heading to the track much I'd suggest getting it. Moser offers the brackets for it pre-welded to the rear for $50.00. Bob
Old 03-21-2008, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by weatherkid
thanks for the responses. I'm just gonna get the standard housing, trutrac w/31splines, 3.70s, lca drop brackets, no abs. maybe a drian plug

I have adjustable BMR lca's, panhard bar, and UMI adjustable torque arm to go on.

not sure what to do as far as sway bar or traction bars ? if anything else would be nessasary or use jsut the stock sway bar with exhaust clamps..
Don't waste your time with exhaust clamps. Get the drain plug, I didn't think about it when I ordered mine and I regret it. And last but not least I STRONGLY recommend that you get someone to check the setup before install so you don't get screwed with a rear that WHINES.

Last edited by v8juice; 03-21-2008 at 08:09 PM. Reason: clarification
Old 03-22-2008, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by weatherkid
I have adjustable BMR lca's, panhard bar, and UMI adjustable torque arm to go on.

not sure what to do as far as sway bar or traction bars ? if anything else would be nessasary or use jsut the stock sway bar with exhaust clamps..
You won't need any type of traction bars, stick with what you got for now and see how it works. There is many single digit cars running stock suspension and cutting low 60' times.

A few suspension items you are going to want to look at are adjustable control arms and a adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end. Thats if you don't already have adjustable pieces. The 9"s do not sit centered in the car with out adjusting, you will need to move it back slightly and to the passenger side.

If you need any help with this let me know and I am glad too. Thank you!
Ryan




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