Superjoe

iTrader: (2)

Hey I just put in a moser 12-bolt and didn't know that there was a chance that my driveshaft may be too long. It's a stock '00 WS6 M6.

Here's pics





That's with the drive shaft pushed into the transmission against the seal, but no pressure. The car is sitting on jack stands (on the axle) so it's loaded. It looks like there is a little room for the shaft to come out once the u-joint is installed to the yoke and I can force it with one hand against the seal on the transmission without much pressure. So this should work, right?

Thanks!!!

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

The driveshaft looks like it will end up further back with a u-joint on it. Like 1/8"
I wouldn't run it. I've seen hard launches bottom the yoke out and break the trans case.
Unless you can load the car down to the bumpstops and see what the clearance is then.

Superjoe

iTrader: (2)

I think you're right, no sense having spent all this money to cheap out now. I just don't want to wait.

I'm having a hell of a time getting it hot enough to melt out the original u-joint anyways. Screw it.


Thanks for the second opinion

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I have never seen a case where the Moser 12 bolt requires a shorter driveshaft. Is the rear centered in the wheelwell? Bob

Superjoe

iTrader: (2)

Now that I look at it, no it's not. I just put the adjustable panhard in at the same time so I need to scoot that over to the right about a 1/4 inch. Will that get me more room for the driveshaft?

And how the heck do you get the frickin' stock u-joint out? I hit that thing with a torch for about ten minutes last night and could not get the crap to melt.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

slowly heat the yoke where the u joint seats untill the plastic slowly melts/curls out. after it melts/curls then drive/press the joint out,
DO NOT get in line of sight with the u joint at the time you are heating it as I have sean several joints pop out because of heat and go compleat threw a tin wall/roof
again do not stand in front of the joint when heating
just my .02' Johnny

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Make sure the rear is also centered front to back in the wheelwell. If you have adjustable lower control arms it may be too far forward. Bob

Superjoe

iTrader: (2)

I have non-adjustable UMI performance LCA's. And I've got relocation brackets ready to be welded in. THey are just going to make it worse, aren't they?

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

my driveshaft was the same way when i put my 12 bolt in, i ran it like that for a couple thousand miles, till i just broke the driveshaft on a hard lanch i dont know if the fitment had anything to do with it or not, but it was a carbon fiber driveshaft that was supposed to hold.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

Maybe, maybe not. But it really sounds like having some adustable LCAs on hand would be a good idea.

I'd also replace the other u-joint, as it looks dry and the rubber seal is going away.