NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

I have a 00 Camaro with a cam, LS6 intake, o/r headers, ORY, and magnaflow cb. My car was tuned by RPM in NC a few years back. My car has been stored for the last 2 years so the inspection has lapsed. I hooked up the battery, changed the oil, put fresh gas in her and she cranked right up. Drove it to my friendly inspection station and when the OBD2 diagnostics were ran the tech asked me if the battery had been dead because I was missing 3 check codes (O2, catalyst, and evap). He said I could only be missing 1 of 9, the other 8 had to be checked and that I needed to drive it more. Do I just need to keep driving it and if so, how long? I've put 80 mis on it in the last 2 days. Would a set of O2 simulators get rid of the O2 and CATALYST codes?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

There is a difference between having codes present that cause you to fail, and having "not ready/incomplete" status on certain system tests that cause you to be rejected for an OBD emissions scan. It sounds to me like your situation is the latter of those two. That being the case, it's not just a matter of how many miles you drive, but of the type of driving you do and the proper amount of cold starts, etc. There is an OBD drive cycle process that will get the readiness status for all tests to show complete more quickly than just normal driving, if you follow the process exactly (which requires a cold start). I'm sure there is a link to this in the PCM & Tuning section, I'll see if I can find it....

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

The link in the PCM section seems to be dead, but I found what you need here:

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

That would be great, thanks! I've only had 2 cold starts. I'll work on it, thanks. So without cats and rear O2s it should check out?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Yes, assuming it was tuned properly. There are a couple different ways to shut those codes off, and if done wrong then the readiness tests will never complete. But if done correctly, the tests will complete and no DTCs/SES will be present. Since you went to a shop that's very familiar with LS1s, I would assume that they tuned it correctly to pass. If not, they should be able to correct it.

Here is a cut and paste from the link above:

General Motors Driving Cycle
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

-Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

-Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

-Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

-Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

-Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

-Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

-Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

-Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Reprinted on OBDII web site courtesy of General Motors Corporation
© General Motors Corporation

NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

Codes still not reading "ready" and I have over 150miles back on her. Will O2 simulators bring them back on so I can get an inspection?

NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

Readiness monitors are:
Catalyst
Evap system
O2 sensor

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

If you've followed the drive cycle above and are still seeing "not ready/not complete" for the above tests, then O2 sims are not going to help you (they would only help if you were getting an actual DTC for the cat delete, but that is not your issue here). I think the way in which those codes were turned off in your tune will need to be corrected. It looks like they shut down the test as well as the MIL command for those systems.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Even though that drive cycle is a pretty accurate genneralization in truth theres no real way to gauge wheen a car will give a ready status. Ive worked as an nc state inspector for the last year. Ive seen cars give a not ready code then take it out drive 5and miles and come back as ready and ive seen people put 200+ miles on a car before it gave a ready code and this rings true no matter the year. I would tryy unhooking the battery and let it sit for a few minutes which will default it to a not ready status then just do daily driving for a few days and take it back to see if it is ready before i go back to tuning it. I live in sc so i dont have to worry about it but i did a mock inspection on my car so i could see what is possible to slide by so i can help people on here with this stuff. My car has no cats or rear o2 sensors. And i have had it tuned to disabble the rear sensors. It passed with fllying colors so you dont need the simulators to have the ready code. Hope this helps

NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

It has passed inspection before, thanks for all the advice folks. I'll keep at it.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

It passed previously with the current tune? If so, then it should eventually complete all tests again without any further tuning changes.

Did you try the OBD drive cycle?

NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

I have cycled it about 5 or 6 times putting 20-30 miles on it each time.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Then i would deff unhook the battery and start from scratch beyond that take it to check the tune

NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

Ok, will do.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Let me know how it works out ill do some digging and see if i can find another solution while youre trying that

NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the help. Btw, I'm active duty stationed at Ft Bragg.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

No problem man. Always happy to help people esspecially brothers in arms. When i was active i was on benning and shortlyy before i got transferred to the guard i was at gordon. Sucks you got stationed in nc and have to put up with the inspectionn bullshit i work as an inspector and see people get fucked all the time. One reason im happy with bein in sc lol

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Did it pass previously, with the current tune?

NBMZ/28

iTrader: (1)

Yes, It has passed before with the current tune.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Yeah then i would deff just unhook the battery and complete 1 or 2 drive cycles from scratch and if that doesnt work something has went wronng somewhere on the car between the last inspection and now