bpalma

iTrader: (1)

Just installed 2 new B&M 70264 coolers for the transmission and p/s system, eliminating the factory p/s cooler, and bypassing the rad trans cooler for the trans fluid.

I located them under the car near the front air dam/rad support. I know a lot of guys do "dope" style, I was wondering if this setup will be sufficient in the summer with a Yank 3200 and stock 3.23 gears? If I have to I can mount a fan on them later i'll figure out a way. The coolers are both extremely secure I could basically hang off them lol.

Didnt want to locate them in front of that as I prefer less length in fluid lines going in that area, as well I plan on getting a ram air system and dont want to inhibit coolant temperatures to much.

Suggestions and criticisms welcomed!

Camaraderie

Will something like this work on a manual car ? I think it looks spiffy . What is a benefit of this though ?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

For the PS cooler that's perfectly fine, but for the trans cooler your probably fine, but I'd post this down in the Automatic Transmission section for better response.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission-13/

I'd also read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...0e-f-body.html

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

Should have put the transmission cooler in front of the radiator so it gets better air flow. With a high stall converter your trans will run hotter so you need to be able to cool it better.

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

A Manual Transmission doesn't have provisions for Transmission Fluid Lines that would run to a Cooler. So the answer is no.

You can definitely run an External Cooler for your Power Steering. I have an Aftermarket Cooler for the Power Steering on my 2000 WS6 to replace the Factory Cooler in the Upper Radiator Hose. I have some pictures, but I can't seem to find them on this computer. (They must be on the Hard Drive from our previous laptop.) I'll see if I can dig them up.

Fry_

It would be better to have the trans fluid run through the factory trans cooler then through the external cooler. It my be something to try before you add a fan if your trans runs to hot with the current setup.

JUSTINSWS6

Ill make a thread on mime I have a b and m with a fan. I think its 30,000btu

JUSTINSWS6

This is what I did for a transmission cooler. I used a external cooler since I used a griffin 3" radiator with no transmission cooler. This is the cooler http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=hi...2-diameter-fan . I mounted it with some aluminum hanger.


The air goes into the front slot under the drl lights and the fan also helps pull air through


it is powered by the fuse box


I also put a inline fuse on the hot wire. It is a 15a fuse. Then just ground it to the body. The fan turns on a 175* mine never gets over 185* it has a 3400 stall with a transgo shift kit.

bpalma

iTrader: (1)

Damn thats a real nice job with the fan on the cooler. I do not like running my trans fluid through the rad AND external cooler as the engine coolant will heat the transmission fluid a tonne.

As well, having every fluid system separated is a good thing in my books, prevents cross contamination in case anything fails internally.

I will see how the trans fluid temps do this spring/summer with my yank 3200. If its to hot, I definitely wanna keep those pictures of that fan setup lol. Is yours mounted in the same spot as mine pretty much?

JUSTINSWS6

its on the drivers side. If you look under the drl you can take that flap off. if had to cut some plastic and just take the flap off. so its under the drls its all the way on the drivers side. has plenty of room and you cant even see it

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

It can't possibily heat the fluid any hotter that what the coolant temp is, so while this might be a concern with the stock fan settings that can allow coolant temps as high as ~230°F, it wouldn't be much of a concern if your cooling system and fan settings are able to keep coolant temps under 200°.

For example, my fan settings usually keep coolant temps around 195-205° during summer conditions. I have a small 16k GVW aftermarket trans cooler mounted after the stock cooler, and it brings the trans temps down to about 170-185° under most summer conditions.

Furthermore, I would not ever feel comfortable bypassing the stock cooler if the car is driven in cold weather. The 4L60E was not designed to operate for extended periods at extremely cool fluid temps, which is something that could easily happen driving at sustained speeds on very cold days with only a large aftermarket cooler. The stock cooler will get the trans up to temp much more quickly in cold weather conditions.

Another advantage to the fluid-to-fluid style factory cooler is how much faster it's able to drop temps, vs the air-to-fluid style of the aftermarket coolers. If you are pushing the trans hard in a high HP application, the trans fluid can easily get hotter than your coolant temps (especially if you have revised fan settings), and if you're not moving very fast than the air-to-fluid aftermarket cooler isn't going to bring those temps down very quickly. The factory fluid-to-fluid cooler can reduce extreme temps more quickly, assuming that the coolant is cooler than the trans fluid.

Either way, these are just some points to consider from the other side of the debate. Many people like to delete the factory cooler, and many do not. There are good arguements on both sides, so it's best for someone facing this question to investigate all the information and then make a decision for themselves.

bpalma

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info RPM, good stuff appreciate it.

What do you consider to be sustained cold temperatures? My car is now driven in the winter time... I have noticed that my trans typically gets to around 80oF on a short 15min drive... on longer drives I dont get much warmer then 156oF at the most.

I hear what your saying about the trans fluid running to cool I am a little concerned about this myself. In the morning the trans seems to shift a bit different because the fluid is so cool initially, even if im not hard on the car at all.

Might have to run both coolers, but I have not installed my Yank converter yet, hoping the high stall will get my temps up a bit more right off the bat?


On a side note, anyone know if i need a PCM tune immediately after a stall install? I already have a tuned PCM, luckily im friends with a tuner, just lives a lil far away.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I've seen several trans builders talk about regular sustained temps lower than about ~125°F as being a potential concern with a stock trans. I think 150-160° would be fine, but if it's stuck at 80-100° for most of your winter driving, I would consider using the stock cooler to regulate a higher minimum temp during the cold months.

But I do agree that temps should likely run a bit higher with the aftermarket stall, so that will be something to watch once you do the install.

The '01-'02 PCMs seem to be more touchy about this, but sometimes the issues will be limited to just some minor idle surge while in gear. The older PCMs are usually more accepting of a stall swap with a stock tune, but usually still need some tweaking.