keithystealmaro

My service engine light came on again it seems like it is on every other week! I got it checked to see what codes it is throwing and it is the oxygen sensors again i just got them changed a month ago what is the root of the problem? Why do they keep going bad? Thanks for any one who can help me!!!

BBADWS6

iTrader: (8)

Octane booster and leaded race fuel are the number one reasons. Second in line would be a tune that was too rich.

nytmare1

iTrader: (7)

First off, what year and model car do you have? Second, what kind of code are you getting (pre or post cat O2s)? If it's post cat O2s, are you getting codes for both O2s or just one? Also, post cat O2 codes generally indicate the cat is bad, not the O2. If you're getting just one code, try swapping the two rear O2s. If the code moves to the other side, it's a bad O2. If the code comes back the same, it's a bad cat.

Good luck,
Marc

midnightblue02

iTrader: (21)

tune them out thats what i did

7th Darkness

iTrader: (15)

If you are running headers or any thing like that you should get vette sensors. (Bosch 13111) I had the same problem.

Vrbas

iTrader: (2)

Mine did the same thing, 'cept only after my header swap. Turns out the wire part was melted by the headers, caused some surging and bucking. Best advice, check your sensor wire and if it looks a bit melted at one place... replace it, and get some heat wrap to tie that sucker up. Worked for me.

98_Formula

iTrader: (15)

yea also if you put on long tubes i have heard of people having a problem with the codes due to the o2 not heating up correctly or whatever, something to do with the switching...

...

keithystealmaro

i dont even have headers on my car what else do you think it could be???

nytmare1

iTrader: (7)

You need to let us know which O2s you're having problems with. Is the pre or post cat O2s? What DTC are you getting?

transam5.7lt1

iTrader: (18)

When you scan the car, it will tell you exactly which sensor is bad, are you replacing the right one?

This is how it reads our cars and generally the SBC engines:

Bank 1 Sensor 1= Upstream Sensor/Driver Side (Before Cat)
Bank 1 Sensor 2= Downstream Sensor/Driver Side (After Cat)
Bank 2 Sensor 1= Upstream Sensor/Passenger Side (Before Cat)
Bank 2 Sensor 2= Downstream Sensor/Passenger side (After Cat)

*Rule of thumb is that bank one is the side where cylinder one is located, bank two is where the cylinder opposed to cylinder one is, this works and applies on all makes and models.*

I hope it helps.

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

Dont put any bottled **** in there unless its an occasional fuel injector cleaner. These Bottled products contain alot of petroleum based crap that can really damage your catalytic converters, oxygen sensors, etc.

I would try some Bosch Oxygen Sensors, they always seemed to outlast the AC Delcos, were better made, and have a warranty with them, aswell.

ls1ws9ta

iTrader: (2)

the vette sensors

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

If he is talking about the front ones, you do not want to tune them out.

sobaka__79

iTrader: (1)

IF YOU HAVE HEADERS, YOU NEED OEM ACDELCOS,

if you are modded at all, youll need to get the 6 six fin ACdelcos, becuase all the others are 3 three fin and DO NOT "switch" like theyre suppose too with a less restrictive exhaust and/or headers

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

Incorrect.

If you have Headers(i.e. longtubes) the rear's should either be deleted by a tune, or have some Casper O2 Simulators. And for the oxygen sensor, you can use any O2 sensor, but pref. the Rear Corvette ones for length, and for the heating element inside them. They will switch regardless, cause thats what O2's do, they are constantly switching readings.


You might have to experiment with other brands to see which brand YOU prefer. I just likes the Bosch because of the nice warranty they had, and how I went through 3-4 sets of AC delcos(had an ORY) and then switched to Boschs and never had a single problem again.

slowandrichws6

iTrader: (2)

we still need to know which ones, pre cat or post cat?? clear the code and put o2 sims on the rear

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

post cat sensors will need to be deleted if youi have long tubes, but a tune is recommended. Then the ONLY sensor bung on the headers are the pre cat sensors, put some rear corvette oxygen sensors by bosch in those.


If the Boschs go bad, easy...take them off(keep your reciept) and go get brand new ones for free

sobaka__79

iTrader: (1)

thats the opposite of my experience, when i replaced my front o2's with bosch 1112's the long corvette rear sensors, my car would run like crap, going way too rich and eventually stumbling itsself into misffire mode. i replaced them with OEM acdelcos and the problem went away to this day.

i thought he was talking about front o2's as i have sims in the back, but just taking out your rear o2's works just fine if you dont have something to tune the light out. so i cant make a comment on the rears other than they dont really matter...

but i am positive that if you have headers or a less restrictive exhaust than stock, you MUST HAVE 6 FIN sensors for propering switching to occur.

you probablly have a leak in your exhaust somwhere before the o2 sensors, you could also have a vacum leak draawing in unmetered air, making you run rich and destorying your o2 sensors

CodeRed2000SS

vette sensors are the ****, aint had no problems with mine, long enough to tir mustangs to the rear bumper too

CodeRed2000SS

vette sensors are the ****, aint had no problems with mine, long enough to tie mustangs to the rear bumper too