PharmD2010

I'm in the market for another car, looking into T/A's. I found a couple that I have been looking at that I thought was a pretty good deal, but would like a little advice from those a little more experienced in the area. Both cars I have found are 2002's, 1 silver, 1 white. Both auto's. silver one has 61,000 miles, white one has 55,000 miles. Both have leather and t-tops. Both are at dealerships. The white one is priced at right under $13,000, and the silver one is priced at $10,900. From the pics, both cars look like they're in great condition. Clean titles on both. It was just surprising to me that they were priced like this, and I can't seem to find any WS6's for under 15-16k. Aren't the only differences between a WS6 and a regular T/A suspension and a couple body parts basically? Don't they all put out about the same power? Please correct me if I'm wrong. I have been a lurker of this site for a LONG time, but I have mostly owned Ford's most of my life, with the exception of a Z06 a few years ago, so I don't have too much knowledge of f-bods. So are these good deals? What would I look for when I go look at them to make sure everything is in check? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Usasoc

iTrader: (2)

The only difference is the hood, wheels, and I think i slightly more free-flowing exhaust.

all ls1 fbodys ( with the slight exception of the 01-02 because of the ls6 intake manifold) put down about the same power and times.

you can find a decent ws6 hood and get it painted for around a grand, and theres always someone selling ws6 wheels, or why not go aftermarket.

Someone correct me if im wrong, hope i could help.

Usasoc

iTrader: (2)

I just noticed your from savannah too. What part? Id go check out the cars with you if you would like.

chemicalstylez

I just bit the bullet and bought a WS6. I plan on keeping it for the long haul, its worth the extra 3 grand to have a real one to me.

NC01TA

Many people just LOVE the WS6 hoods. Otherwise the cars are basically the same. Personally I, and a few others, prefer the regular smooth hood. Also, if 15 hp means the world to you, pay the extra $$ for a real WS6. Those prices you spoke of are decent but you MUST know the history behind each car. Any car can be abused and you must avoid them at all costs. Even the mighty LS1 can't be abused or not maintained properly. Get documention or move on to another car. There are plenty out there that are decent and kept up well. Look for the door panel cracks and bad headlight motors when you look at these cars as well. Common problems. I've owned new F-bodies since 1996 so I can speak with some experience. They are a joy to drive with endless compliments. Good luck with your purchase!

PharmD2010

That's exactly my way of thinking. I personally don't care whether I have a real WS6 or not if they all put out around the same power. I can go aftermarket to get the looks I want and save money while doing it! Thanks for the info.

I am actually not from Savannah, just going to South University School of Pharmacy. I'm actually from Douglasville GA, about 20 miles west of Atlanta. I've been down here for about a year now and it's a pretty nice place if you can stand the heat and humidity! I'll keep you in mind if I go look at any cars around here. Thanks again for the help!



Cool, nice to see both sides to the issue. I do love the look of the WS6's, but it would definitely be nice to save the extra money since I'm on a budget anyways. Thanks for the input!

PharmD2010

Actually, I've come to realize that there are times I like the regular hood, and other times I like the WS6 hood better. I think it normally just depends on the car (color, pose in the picture, etc). I agree about the extra power not being worth the extra money for what I'm looking for, which is a DD. So are you saying that these prices are good as long as everything checks out on them? I planned on getting as much history of the car as possible. I know sometimes you can just talk to people and look over the car real good and get a pretty good understanding of how the car has been treated. Both cars are at dealerships, so would it be wrong of me to ask them for the contact information of the previous owner? Are they allowed to do that? And while we're on the subject, this is going to be my DD, and from what I've heard and read, the LS1 is a very dependable motor and these car seem to hold up well. How would you rate them for daily driving? Thanks a lot for your input. It's been a big help.

Shooter_Jay

Actually they put a milder cam in ls6 intake cars to even it out as I understand it. Though the factory rating did go up from 305 to 310 hp with that change. Can't trust the factory #'s though as it's pretty well accepted that the cars put down 300 at the wheels. Even nhra.com rates my 2002 at 349hp stock.

Also, if you are considering getting a ws6 hood for your t/a, seriously consider the raptor hood. I think it looks MUCH better.
http://images.google.com/images?q=%22raptor+hood%22&um=1&hl=en&safe=off&rls =com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7GGIK&sa=G&imgsz=small|medium|larg e|xlarge

qwk93ta

iTrader: (13)

I bought my 00 WS6 in 11/07 and it sucked to have to pay $3,000 more then a regular T/A, but I have always wanted one.....I am happy I did it.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

Those seem like good prices, and the way I look at the whole WS6 thing is if your goin to keep the car for a while as a weekend car, keep the miles low and dont plan on modding too much its worth the extra $$$ for the WS6 package. But if your goin to rack up the miles (drive daily) or mod if faily decently its not worth it b/c IMO once a ws6 car hits higher miles and is modded it looses what makes it special and doesnt hold anymore value then a regular T/A.... I know everyone wont agree but thats just my 2 cents

NC01TA

You're welcome! I personally think the prices are fair if the cars are EXCELLENT! Of course try to haggle them down a bit. As far as getting the history of the car, some dealers will give you the prior owner's info if they received the OK from them for future contact. It isn't always easy to get this info but look at the fluids carefully. If all look clean there is a good chance you will be in good shape. Dealers will change the oil but usually not the tranny, coolant, brake fluid, etc... Sometimes it is a 'gut' call when you drive it, but if everything looks good everywhere on the vehicle, and it drives out well, odds are on your side you will be OK. Also check the alignment on the front tires besides the door panels and headlight motors. I know I have told you too much but it is an important purchase. Something is always repairable on a used car and what you need to do is minimize the future repair. One other thing to keep in mind are the tires' tread. If bad, and if you want quality tires such as the Goodyear GSD3 you are looking at another $650-$700 minimum to put into the car. It is also a good haggling point with the salesman, but don't let him talk you into 'el cheapo' tires that they will slap on for you. You get what you pay for. Again, good luck!