dbrown

iTrader: (2)

Just as the title says, I got $1500 to spend on a 100% stock ls1. I will have another $1500 in less than a month. I'm looking for power of course, but would like to keep nice street manners. My car is a DD with a pampered 70k on the OD.

Should I get heads and a cam? Nitrous?
Save and get a turbo?
Save and get a SC?

z06vette24

iTrader: (1)

save for a supercharger!! that would be so tight. i want one!

unless you do twin turbo setup, but def a sc over a single turbo

ICEMAN 31

lets see, you will have to do the basics

air lid - i suggest SLP because the plastic matches best and the logo looks great

catback - i go with cutout cause its mean and cheap if you go manual cutout

header - pacesetters

y-pipe - go ORY and loos the cats

a Tune

and maybe staring to get your car ready for some juice

78novacaine

iTrader: (2)

for $1500 if you shop around you can get longtubes and full exhaust for around $600 give or take, then upgrade your clutch (ls7 is what i am putting in mine, $500 shipped from SDPC with tax since im in texas), then and adj panhard bar and LCA's will help with traction, pavlock performance would be your best bet for those, thats around $1500 total

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I'd get some LPP headers, 3 inch true duals, a lid, and some subframe connectors.

WhosNXT

Since its all stock you have to get it breathing before anything else.

So first off you will need a CAI system. The best for the F-body would be a after market lid and FTRA or SSRA. All the lids show about the same gain, others just seal better. I had an SLP with no issues, some have had issues. Set aside about 350 for the CAI.

Then you will need to move on to the exhuast. A set of LT's depending on brand can run anywhere from 400 (pacesetters) to 1k (Kooks, QTP, ect.). All long tube headers will net around the same gain. The difference in price is going to be the materials used and the craftsmanship used to build them. I would recommend the pacesetters they are the best for the money. Then you will need to decide if you want a Y pipe or dual set up. The tsp y works really well with the pacesetter LTs. Then you will need to chose a cat back also, magnaflow is great flow and sound and it is priced very nicely. The borla, corsa, gmmg all are great cat backs but cost a little more. Since you only have 1500 you should be going bang for the buck. I would personally go with an TD X, you can buy two mufflers of your choice (cats if needed) and go to a local reputable exhaust shop and have them fab a TD system for you. Depending on what set up you choose, your exhaust could run anywhere from 700 to well over 1k.

If you choose the less expensive exhaust setup you will have money for a few more mods, I would recommend a good tune. This will squeeze more power out of all the mentioned mods and take care of any rich/lean conditions you may run into after the LT install. Also if you go catless you will need to have the rear 02s cut off. Go ahead and change the plugs also while you are doing the LT install.

Bandit28

iTrader: (28)

one word... SUSPENSION!

dbrown

iTrader: (2)

I already got the suspension worked out. Stranos, Koni's, LCA's, Adj panhard waiting to be installed. I have a spec 3+ waiting to be installed as well.....

Also when I said 100% stock, I lied a bit. Forgot to mention I have a cat back.

dbrown

iTrader: (2)

And I plan to go catless, or cat gutted.. I already have sims..

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

Pacesetter LT's if your on a budget and either OTP or Kooks if you want the best (shop around and you can find these for 700-800). Then a true dual setup, this will get you the best performance and by far the best sound and can be found for about $500, you can have one fabricated or get a kit from TSP which fits great on some cars and not so great on others and I believe they would cost about the same. As far as the intake goes just get a lid and bellow and pay 100-120, ported stock TB for ~60 and an LS6 intake for around 300 used. I wouldnt worry about the CAI because it wont show much gain if any and it will easilly double the price of just a lid. And last new plugs and wires and a good tune.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I'm sure other have seen me post this, maybe not but this is how I spent my money.

Hooker 1 3/4s Longtubes 379.99
Hooker O/R Y Pipe 189.99
Hooker Catback 329.99
SLP Lid 95.00
Fast Toys Ram Air 181.99

Total: $1176.96 + $21 shipping

I'm also going to buy a DMH Cutout and I just bought some C6 tips for $60.00

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

You would still have $200 left over and you could get a pulley or save for next check

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

You HOOKER

Get pacesetter

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

Aftermarket rearend / aftermarket driveshaft .

HaulinHawk

Good move there,10 bolt def the weakest part on our cars.Iwould go with a 9in for a M6.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Damn, unfortunately I have to agree with this guy. Put the two amounts you listed together and go with a 12-bolt/9-inch and a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft. Between those parts, the suspension you said you have, and the clutch you said you have going in, the only thing you have left to break or worry about drivetrain/suspension-wise is the tranny, and you might as well drive that until it breaks.

dbrown

iTrader: (2)

I might just put a rear in it. I know for a fact tin future upgrades will be done. I wont be dragging this car but once or thrice. However, I do alot of hard launches on the streets and something will eventually break.


I do take my daughter to school in the Z alot. I dont want it failing because I stressed it the day/night before. <- Has that ever happened to anyone?

sworaz

iTrader: (13)

Either this or or start some basic bolt ons: lid, headers, intake, and catback.
Good luck.

landonew

Could not have said it better myself: +, if any cash left over do a pulley and then adj. LCAs. Get fully bolted! Cars are great bolt on cars.

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

i was thinking full exhaust, lid and LS6 intake manifold