fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

So I went to start my car with the a/c on and about 5 seconds later my car engulfs in a cloud of white crap, so I was like oh **** the radiator blew up. I opened the hood to check everything and everything looked fine. I noticed some greenish oily substance right near my a/c compressor. I went to start it and turn the a/c on and now it blows hot. I'm thinking a line broke, but should I bother fixing it or take it to the dealer? I always work on my car but I don't know too much about a/c systems and summer in FL is a bitch.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like the compressor blew its ring seal inside. If so, you'll need to get it rebuilt or a new one.

5 years ago my compressor did the same thing, but it leaked out slowly over a 2-3 day period and didn't just blow suddenly.

I chose to go to my dealer only because they offered me a lifetime "parts and labor" warranty on the compressor. So for like $800 they replaced it with a brand new one and I never have to pay for another compressor again, or labor to swap them. And in South Florida I like that idea.

You can buy one and easily replace it yourself though. Then put 2 cans of 134 in and you're done. Some will tell you to replace the dryer/evap....not necassary but its your choice.

Mine had green refridgerant pooling on the bottom of the compressor and then dripping onto the ground.

Just make sure the compressor is what blew. It could just have been the line that attaches to the rear of the compressor. They are $25.00 on ebay.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I'll have to find out, but usually when I turn on the a/c i hear it click on, that doesn't happen anymore.


Is there a diagram of the a/c systems showing all the lines?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

The reason the compressor will not click on anymore is simply because there's no refridgerant in the system, or at least it has dropped so low the sensor will not allow the compressor clutch to engage. Its a safety mechanism so you don't burn up the compressor when you are low on refridgerant. If you're low on refridgerant you'll also be low on lubrication in the system, so it keeps the compressor off.

Don't know where a diagram is though.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Local dealer wants 90$ to check it out for the first hour, and they'll go from there. RIPOFF. I'm gonna look at it right now, see if I can find anything.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I couldn't see anything, except for the greenish oily **** on my swaybar and bottom a/c hose.

What should I do if I were to do it myself, I don't know if I should pull the compressor or not.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

See that hose #10...that thing is all one piece. Thats the one I mentioned that costs $25.00 on ebay. The lower A/C line that you say you see greenish stuff on, its probably that lower part of the line where it attaches to the bottom of the condensor. RIGHT??????

If so, it could be leaking from one of the metal crimped couplers on that line that crimps the rubber portion of the hose together at those two lower metal couplers.

If you do not have greenish stuff pooling onto the bottom of the compressor itself, then maybe the compressor is OK.

I accidentally broke that line a couple months ago and I saw a tiny tiny slow leak at that metal coupler at the bottom part of that #10 line. I put a 3 oz can of leak sealer in there that had red dye in it, along with 1 1/2 cans of refridgerant that contained lubricating oil and its own leak sealer. Its been perfect for the past 2 weeks so far. I can't see any red dye coming from that tiny spot. It seems to have worked perfectly.

Its worth a try. I used "interdynamics" sealer. It has a push on nozzle so you don't have to buy any hose for it. Then I bought 2 cans of their 134.

Thats it.

If you do this, you will start the engine and put the A/C on full blast settings. Put the sealer in first. Then start the 134 going in. You should buy the can of 134 that has a lever on it that you can start and stop as you want to. And if you do not use it all you can save it for later. "Interdynamics" makes it. Keep putting it in whikle the engine is running until you hear/see the compressor kick on. Then put a little more in. Go check to see if its blowing cold. Keep putting it in little by little until its cold. Then stop. Go drive it for 20 minutes with the a/c "on".


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fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I can only find that line on eBay for 25$ but it's for the v6, where can I get one for the ls1? Also do I have to remove the compressor to change this line?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Try the leak sealer first. If it doesn't work it at least tell you exactly where the leak is so you don't waste your time buying a line or a compressor you don't need.

I think the compressor just needs to be unbolted so you can move it forward a little to get to that one bolt on the back holding that line on.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02...Q5fAccessories


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fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I recharged the system about 3 months ago too, it was working great till this happened

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Well, maybe you can seal it up with the leak sealer still. Maybe not. You'll have to put 134 in with the sealer though, till you get the compressor to start, so the sealer can find the leak and try to seal it.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I used leak sealer before, I have a feeling I'm gonna have to pull the compressor, but I'll buy a line just for peace of mind, it's only 25$ anyway and my bird just turned 100k miles

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

If all the freon came out at once it has a severe leak and is beyond a leak sealer. You can pick up one of those cans with the valve and shoot some freon in with the engine off to see where it's leaking from. I would do that before you buy anything. Even if it's just 25 dollars, that's money that can go toward the compressor if you need one.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

yeah I wonder if it's the compressor, it sounded like a muffled firecracker

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Put a can in and see where the leak is, tell us what you found.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

all the oil and shot is coming from the front of the compressor, there is some residual oil seeping from the bottom of it, if it was the compressor would it be leaking from the front or back? It sprayed in front of it, regardless I'll get a can and pinpoint it

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Good news, as I was going to put refrigerant in, I saw a tear on one of the bottom hoses, I believe its the #4 hose. I went to gmpartsdirect site and it lists that hose as part #102827, but as I was checking out, the site said that the part # doesn't list in their database or has changed to a new part number.

EDIT: is the number 4 hose part of #10? Because I can get a new line for 70$ shipped GM PART #10409630

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

No #4 is a completely sererate hose. Its the hose up top near the passenger side strut tower. Its very easy to replace to, it'll take you 3 minutes. 2 bolts, one at each end and it comes right off.
That #4 hose connects to the top corner passenger side of the condensor, then runs back near the passenger strut tower and bolts up.

But.....GM stopped making that hose. Two dealerships in my town couldn't get it for 3 months. You can get that hose where I got mine. Trans Am Creations on ebay.

But how did refridgerant get to the bottom of the engine bay if that top hose was leaking??????

The ONLY bottom A/C line is the #10 line. But the #10 hose goes from the very top of the engine bay and attaches to that #2 canister, then goes down and wraps around behind the electric fans and down to the back of the of the compressor and bolts to it, then continues to the bottom corner passengers side of the condensor. It snakes all the way around.


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fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Ok I guess its not #4, it attaches to the passenger side bottom of the condenser.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Its that #10 hose, the bottom part of it. Thats where I originally thought the leak was.