epox4life

iTrader: (4)

Could this be causing my front end clunking over bumps?

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

Yes it could. Dry outer tie rod will eventually wear out.

Put the tire back on, have someone grab it at 9 and 3 o'clock and wiggle. Get your head under there and check for movement in the joint.

epox4life

iTrader: (4)

I tried to get the wheel to wobble, but it didn't budget when I pushed and pulled.

But is there anything else I should look out for (that could be causing a clunk sound) when replacing this because I don't want to have to get an alignment more than once.

Joshiedoom

iTrader: (4)

Ball joints and a busted shock could cause this as well

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

Lift the front of the vehicle up. Grab the tire at the 3:00 and 9:00 position and wiggle it. If you have any play there, then check your inner / outer tie rods. Check the inner by putting your hand on it while moving the wheel. You will feel if it has any play. Check the outer tie rod by squeezing it with a pair of channel locks and see if you have any play. If it is bad enough, you will be able to see it while wiggeling the wheel, and won't even need the channel locks.

Now grab the wheel at the 12:00 and 6:00 position. If you get any play from there, it is the hub bearing starting to fail. All are very easy to fix in the driveway.

Now, use the channel locks and squeeze the ball joints. Keep constant pressure on them, and with a pry bar, pry between the ball joint and the lower a-arm. Keeping constant pressure with the channel locks will ensure that you don't mis-diagnose it. If you don't do that, sometimes you won't even feel any play. Be careful not to pry against the boot and tear it. Water and crap will get in there and cause pre-mature failure. If you feel any play there, then the ball joint either needs greased up, or replaced, depending on the amount of play that you find.


Since the outer tie rod's boot is shot, I would definately replace it. When putting a new outer tie rod on, make sure the old and new are the same ones. Then break the jam nut free. Count how many complete revolutions it takes to remove the old tie rod and crank the new one on the same amount of turns it took to remove the old one. This will get you as close as possible the the original alignment. Hell, you may not even need to spend $$ on an alignment. Test drive it first, but most of the time, it can be avoided.

epox4life

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for all the advice, once the new outer tie rod ends I ordered come in I'll check all the other suspension parts you mentioned. And if I find an issue I'll replace them before I go in for an alignment.

LS1tech members are the best.

99huggerorangeZ

iTrader: (2)

check for broken sway bar endlink(s) or collapsed lower control arm bushing(s)

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

Yes Lower control arm bushings did it for me. I replaced them with Hyperflex don't use the Red bushings they squeak terribly use the black.

epox4life

iTrader: (4)

Lifted the car again and tried moving the wheel left to right (3 and 9 o clock). Both sides had some movement but the drivers side made the knock/clunk noise when I wiggled it. I looked under the car and had someone else wiggle the wheel and the inner tie rods seem to have a lot of movement.

CranMaro99

iTrader: (10)

Looks like you answered your question!

epox4life

iTrader: (4)

I think this explains the major tracking with the road and slight pulling left or right.