S_carve

iTrader: (1)

Im replacing the drivers side window regulator in my 95 z28 and was able to get the one out by force. Now trying to get my new one and am having some troubles. Have done all the searches and only find pics of broken regulator parts and motor replacement.

Does the glass have to come out?

When putting the sliders into the tracks, which one goes first the window track or the verticle track?

Does the regulator get mounted before the sliders go in the tracks?

Thanks for any help. Either GM repair manual directions on links.

S_carve

iTrader: (1)

Nevermind. Found a really good write up hope it helps others.

http://www.firebirdnation.com/pdf/windowreplacement.pdf

http://www.firebirdnation.com/pdf/wi...placement2.pdf

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Wow - these are good write-ups.

Two things not in there:
- Its best to lube the sliders with Syl-Glide before reinstalling the regulator.
- You can't use any old rivet. The rivets need to be aluminum jacket/steel mandrel. Aluminum rivets won't be strong enough and steel rivets will tear up the composite door. You can get the special rivets at any GM dealer.

Crimsonnaire

iTrader: (1)

If the wrong rivets are used when the regulator assembly is installed, is it possible to just drill those out and replace them with the right ones?

Can RTV silicone be used to seal up/cushion any widened gap in the hole?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Sure. The big thing is drilling them out could damage the holes a little bit more, if not careful. If the rivets there have any movement when the window moves, it's probably too late.

No, you'd have to do a solid composite repair or move to a steel plate or bonded washers. RTV or other fillers would be too soft.

Crimsonnaire

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for clarifying.

When my driver window motor was replaced at a body shop, the regulator was removed and everything done the long way. I don't know what rivets were used when it was put back together, but I think there's a good chance they're not the appropriate aluminum-jacketed steel ones.

When I open it up to have a look, if the rivets should be loose, could I use slightly larger rivets to gap the tolerance?

Finally, would you happen to know the size of the replacement rivets I need? And is there a place I can order them from online? I hate to have to go to the dealership, especially since the nearby GM ones have switched over to Toyota or Nissan.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I used these instructions when I did mine: http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

A magnet will confirm what they are.


You could, but drilling a clean hole through the composite panel would be tough and finding the right rivet in the correct size, would be even tougher. They aren't a very common thing.


I don't. You can get them from an online dealer. You'll just want to confirm with them how many you'll get. I recall that the p/n is for a single rivet, but they come in a bag of 5. So, you may need to confirm if the price you are paying is for 1 or 5.

You'll also need an industrial sized riveter. Something that looks like this:

A handheld riveter won't be large enough.

unreal1171

iTrader: (1)

I know my front rollers slip and are causing issues, it, most of the time, goes up all the way but the front slip and leaves it open a bit. Where could I get just the rollers or could I use something to keep them from slipping? Or just replace it all?

Thank you for the help.

nimrod.sixty9

iTrader: (5)

http://shbox.com/1/adj_window.html

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

please post a new thread for your issue and describe the problem. (I'm not sure I understand what slipping rollers are.)

unreal1171

iTrader: (1)

thx for the link, once I fix the motor ill make sure the adjustments are done.


ok, ill post the issue in a new thread, sorry, and thx!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...l#post18397282

Darth Cypher

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. This is the one I found when searching for a riveter. I am looking to replace my power window motor soon. I plan on using the proper rivets that GM uses. I also plan on getting a riveter to do this. Would this one suffice?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Just barely. It only does 1/4" rivets, which is what you need. These suckers are a bitch - so if you get a larger unit with longer handles, it should go better for you.

BTW - Every time you remove the rivets, you WILL do damage to the door. If you already have the proper rivets in there and just need to change the motor, I highly recommend the shbox method of replacement. It will keep your doors longevity by not removing the regulator/rivets and the whole job will go easier.

Darth Cypher

I may be mixing something up, but I thought using bolts and nuts will eat into the door eventually. The shbox method mentions using bolts and nuts. Or is the bolt/nut issues from people taking the whole assembly out of the door and using bolts and nuts instead of rivets to attach the assembly to the door. I have never worked on power windows/motors/etc so it is a little difficult for me to picture this until I actually do it. I am guessing that the shbox just removes the motor but leaves the rest of the assembly in the car. I just want to make sure because I don't want to have any issues or surprises later on. I am guessing that I just need to replace my motor because it takes a while for it to go all the way back up and it stops several times.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Correct. The concern with nuts and bolts is in the door skin where the metal regulator attaches to the composite door skin. The shbox method doesn't touch these and leaves them in-place.

shbox talks about the motor to regulator attachment, which is metal-to-metal. Nuts and bolts here are fine, but if you want a more solid attachment, you can use plain steel rivets, as well. (Some people have the nuts and bolts come loose, which creates some headaches.) If you do use nuts and bolts here, I'd definitely use nylock nuts so they don't come loose. Some people go for thread locker, but in this application - IMO - the nylocks are worth the few extra cents.

Darth Cypher

Well, I got my new power window motor installed. Used the shbox version. Everything is installed and works properly. I used nylock nuts as well. One is torqued tight, the rest are very snug but keep spinning and I can't back off of them either. It did the same thing with the regular nuts that came with the new motor. Everything is fine for now but I am concerned about if this motor goes bad and I have to remove it. Is there a way to get these bolts/nuts off that are spinning? I just want to prepare myself for when the time comes. But for now my power window works like a champ, better than when I first got the car.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you take the door speaker out, you should be able to get easier access to the backside of the regulator to get a tool on the bolts.

You may need to move the window glass to access one particular bolt over another. Important - Make sure your head and hands are not in the speaker opening when you do this!

Darth Cypher

I did have the speaker out and did not have to move the window at all. Getting to the bolts and nuts were easy to get tools on. Just for some reason that when I go to apply final torque, the nut keeps spinning. I can't loosen it either. I used washer and split washers. The motor is on snug and everything works. I just know that if the motor goes bad (hopefully in a long time) I will have to somehow get these spinning nuts off (remember they do not loosen either). All I have is a regular drill and bits which was good enough for this project. I just don't know what all I can use to either drill or cut the spinning nut/bolt off.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

How about a wrench or socket set? If you have the proper tool on the bolt head and the proper tool on the nut, it shouldn't spin, right?