Heater core hose assembly fix.........pics
#1
Heater core hose assembly fix.........pics
Can't remember who asked me to post my pics of this fix....but here it is, maybe it'll help someone save some money.
Took about 20 minutes and maybe $15.00 in new hoses and clamps. 5/8" hose and 3/4" hose.
Dremel and some cutting wheels.....
Cut 3 or 4 channels into the metal......JUST GO THROUGH TILL YOU BARELY HIT RUBBER. You don't want to cut into the INNER metal hose.
Then peel them back like a banana with a flat head screwdriver or needle nose pliers. Should bend very easily and come totally off very easily.
Then razor knife a couple cuts and peel the rubber back. Then pull and twist the old hose off.
Clamp the new hoses on....Done.
****This works on any of the GM hoses like this that have the inner metal hose. I even did this on my A/C line that goes from the compressor to the bottom of the condensor. Did it like 4 years ago and it's still there today. Two clamps have been holding it.
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Took about 20 minutes and maybe $15.00 in new hoses and clamps. 5/8" hose and 3/4" hose.
Dremel and some cutting wheels.....
Cut 3 or 4 channels into the metal......JUST GO THROUGH TILL YOU BARELY HIT RUBBER. You don't want to cut into the INNER metal hose.
Then peel them back like a banana with a flat head screwdriver or needle nose pliers. Should bend very easily and come totally off very easily.
Then razor knife a couple cuts and peel the rubber back. Then pull and twist the old hose off.
Clamp the new hoses on....Done.
****This works on any of the GM hoses like this that have the inner metal hose. I even did this on my A/C line that goes from the compressor to the bottom of the condensor. Did it like 4 years ago and it's still there today. Two clamps have been holding it.
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Last edited by LS6427; 11-18-2012 at 12:32 AM.
#2
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This is an excellent option for replacement of those hoses.
#3
Yea...there's also a company here locally, which I assume every city has.....that will take the metal assembly and do factory-like re-crimps to GM specs. But, they wanted to charge like $20.00 per crimp. $80.00 total...... The clamps I used are absolutely fine and should last for years and years.
I was thinking of actually putting two clamps on each one, I think they'll fit.
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I was thinking of actually putting two clamps on each one, I think they'll fit.
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#4
Save the manuals!
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Any thoughts as to why the crimps are used at all - given that every other hose clamp on the cooling system is either a spring or worm-drive clamp? Seems like overkill.
Maybe these make sense when manufacturing a hybrid assembly of metal and rubber hoses? There should be no reason why regular hose clamps wouldn't hold.
BTW - I tried tow of these on my PS hoses and it didn't work out well. The second clamp was just over the end of the inner barb, which caused the clamp to dig in to the hose and cut it.
Maybe these make sense when manufacturing a hybrid assembly of metal and rubber hoses? There should be no reason why regular hose clamps wouldn't hold.
BTW - I tried tow of these on my PS hoses and it didn't work out well. The second clamp was just over the end of the inner barb, which caused the clamp to dig in to the hose and cut it.
#5
wssix99,
Here's the high pressure A/C line I did many years ago. Its still holding...as of May when I removed my engine anyway.
See the inner metal line...it has the lines cut all around it. If you take the dremel and cut grooves like that into the inner metal lines that don't have the lines already there.....when you clamp the rubber hose down the rubber will sink into the channels and the gripping power will be 10-fold tighter......and it keeps the rubber hose from slipping off under high pressure.
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Here's the high pressure A/C line I did many years ago. Its still holding...as of May when I removed my engine anyway.
See the inner metal line...it has the lines cut all around it. If you take the dremel and cut grooves like that into the inner metal lines that don't have the lines already there.....when you clamp the rubber hose down the rubber will sink into the channels and the gripping power will be 10-fold tighter......and it keeps the rubber hose from slipping off under high pressure.
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Last edited by LS6427; 11-18-2012 at 05:16 PM.
#7
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I did this about a year ago and its all been good.
Also for anyone wondering the heater hose that actally goes from the metal tube into the heater core on the firewall can be bought at the autoparts store. Just go in and ask for the heater hose for a 92-94 pontiac bonneville se. Its around 10 bucks and is preconformed to fit in there.
Also for anyone wondering the heater hose that actally goes from the metal tube into the heater core on the firewall can be bought at the autoparts store. Just go in and ask for the heater hose for a 92-94 pontiac bonneville se. Its around 10 bucks and is preconformed to fit in there.
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#8
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I did this about a year ago and its all been good.
Also for anyone wondering the heater hose that actally goes from the metal tube into the heater core on the firewall can be bought at the autoparts store. Just go in and ask for the heater hose for a 92-94 pontiac bonneville se. Its around 10 bucks and is preconformed to fit in there.
Also for anyone wondering the heater hose that actally goes from the metal tube into the heater core on the firewall can be bought at the autoparts store. Just go in and ask for the heater hose for a 92-94 pontiac bonneville se. Its around 10 bucks and is preconformed to fit in there.
We don't need any special couplings or clamps?
#11
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