BCM.......is this a symptom of a failing BCM...?
09-02-2013, 05:20 PM
#1
BCM.......is this a symptom of a failing BCM...? I searched and found nothing......
When I get in my car and start it up I cannot roll the passenger side window down from the drivers side controls. But probably half the time if I reach over and use the passengers side window switch it will work. But sometimes it will not.
Then after I drive for for a few minutes the drivers side window switch will work for the passengers side window. Then the passengers side switch might work.......but might not. Then later neither will work or they will both work. Sometimes I get in the car and the window switches on both sides work normally.
My drivers side window has zero issues....works perfectly.
BCM.....?
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When I get in my car and start it up I cannot roll the passenger side window down from the drivers side controls. But probably half the time if I reach over and use the passengers side window switch it will work. But sometimes it will not.
Then after I drive for for a few minutes the drivers side window switch will work for the passengers side window. Then the passengers side switch might work.......but might not. Then later neither will work or they will both work. Sometimes I get in the car and the window switches on both sides work normally.
My drivers side window has zero issues....works perfectly.
BCM.....?
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09-03-2013, 09:25 AM
#2
Probably a bad passenger window switch on your driver's side. They are more complex than they look and the passenger side switch is actually wired through the driver's side. It could also be a bad passenger side switch.
Your BCM is fine, though.
Your BCM is fine, though.
09-03-2013, 07:37 PM
#3
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I currently have issues with the BCM. On my car, neither window will work nor will the stereo get power. So I know when I get in and start the car up, if the radio lights up ... windows work. No radio lights, no power windows. After a few minutes, the circuit within the BCM will make the connection and everything will work. Look in the sticky section at the top of the Maintenance forum, as I remember a good thread that describes the issues. Essentially, pull the BCM, open it up and there is a solder joint that is bad in the power circuit.
09-03-2013, 11:22 PM
#5
Replace the window switch's on both sides for a reliable repair. It's old enough now that when these cars come in they get both switch's and both door motors to clear up goofy oddities like you are having and it will work for another 10 years. If not you will always be chasing random ghosts.
Then if you have really crap luck which is highly likely you'll find that once you have reliable switchs you'll still have a intermittent window's here and there due to bad window motors and the outdoor temperature is the key factor and the internal limiters in the motors are randomly opening causing a no operation condition.
Then if you have really crap luck which is highly likely you'll find that once you have reliable switchs you'll still have a intermittent window's here and there due to bad window motors and the outdoor temperature is the key factor and the internal limiters in the motors are randomly opening causing a no operation condition.
09-03-2013, 11:42 PM
#6
Replace the window switch's on both sides for a reliable repair. It's old enough now that when these cars come in they get both switch's and both door motors to clear up goofy oddities like you are having and it will work for another 10 years. If not you will always be chasing random ghosts.
Then if you have really crap luck which is highly likely you'll find that once you have reliable switchs you'll still have a intermittent window's here and there due to bad window motors and the outdoor temperature is the key factor and the internal limiters in the motors are randomly opening causing a no operation condition.
Then if you have really crap luck which is highly likely you'll find that once you have reliable switchs you'll still have a intermittent window's here and there due to bad window motors and the outdoor temperature is the key factor and the internal limiters in the motors are randomly opening causing a no operation condition.
I have to be at the dealership tomorrow morning anyway....I'm finally collecting on that Lifetime Parts and Labor warranty for my A/C Compressor..........lol
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09-04-2013, 06:07 AM
#8
Fortunately, the switch is the same on either side. Its probably the one on the passenger side from the symptoms you are describing and the fact that you've already replaced the one on the driver's side.
09-04-2013, 12:03 PM
#9
The switch's are wired in series. If the pass side switch goes bad depending on how it fails sometimes the pass side window will not work using the pass only switch but work using the drivers side sw to roll down the passenger window then other times it's dead from either switch. Start with the switch.
Most of the times these cars come in these day's they are so wore out from age and use it's a collective failure of all of the above parts causing all the ghosts and has my guys chasing their tails. Therefore early on years ago when they started to come in the above is what I do to fix them. If they don't want to do it I send them right back out the door because I don't want to deal with the frustration of dealing with a pissed off customer who doesn't understand just how problematic old f body power windows are. If iit's a clean low miler we'll look into it closer but most coming in these days are 150/225/300K mile cars in our area of the woods.
Most of the times these cars come in these day's they are so wore out from age and use it's a collective failure of all of the above parts causing all the ghosts and has my guys chasing their tails. Therefore early on years ago when they started to come in the above is what I do to fix them. If they don't want to do it I send them right back out the door because I don't want to deal with the frustration of dealing with a pissed off customer who doesn't understand just how problematic old f body power windows are. If iit's a clean low miler we'll look into it closer but most coming in these days are 150/225/300K mile cars in our area of the woods.
09-04-2013, 12:08 PM
#10
I personally would start with the BCM. Take it out and open it up. The solder points vibrate loose over time and have to be soldered back into place. I had to do this on my Z28 because when I bought it neither one of the windows worked and the radio did not work either! BCM solder points were loose, soldered them back into place and everything was fixed. Just my opinion.
09-04-2013, 05:04 PM
#11
The switch's are wired in series. If the pass side switch goes bad depending on how it fails sometimes the pass side window will not work using the pass only switch but work using the drivers side sw to roll down the passenger window then other times it's dead from either switch. Start with the switch.
Most of the times these cars come in these day's they are so wore out from age and use it's a collective failure of all of the above parts causing all the ghosts and has my guys chasing their tails. Therefore early on years ago when they started to come in the above is what I do to fix them. If they don't want to do it I send them right back out the door because I don't want to deal with the frustration of dealing with a pissed off customer who doesn't understand just how problematic old f body power windows are. If iit's a clean low miler we'll look into it closer but most coming in these days are 150/225/300K mile cars in our area of the woods.
Most of the times these cars come in these day's they are so wore out from age and use it's a collective failure of all of the above parts causing all the ghosts and has my guys chasing their tails. Therefore early on years ago when they started to come in the above is what I do to fix them. If they don't want to do it I send them right back out the door because I don't want to deal with the frustration of dealing with a pissed off customer who doesn't understand just how problematic old f body power windows are. If iit's a clean low miler we'll look into it closer but most coming in these days are 150/225/300K mile cars in our area of the woods.
Then go from there......
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09-04-2013, 05:06 PM
#12
I personally would start with the BCM. Take it out and open it up. The solder points vibrate loose over time and have to be soldered back into place. I had to do this on my Z28 because when I bought it neither one of the windows worked and the radio did not work either! BCM solder points were loose, soldered them back into place and everything was fixed. Just my opinion.
We're is the BCM located anyway......I guess I could check to see if the solder points are ok.....
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09-07-2013, 07:52 PM
#15
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For reference, though, the BCM is located behind the glove compartment. You'll have to remove the passenger side kick panel, open the glove box (pull it all the way forward so you can get into the space behind it) and disconnect the BCM. It's a small black box. As noted above, your problem isn't the BCM. But that's where it is located.
