Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Is it possible to remove the transmission cooler lines from the 4L60E without dismanteling the transmission? I was under there earlier today and although I can (barely) see the fittings, it doesnt look like I'll be able to get any tools up there. Any one experienced otherwise?

MC Ray

iTrader: (1)

Use a hook pick to remove the retaining clip holding the line in then pull the line out. They're the same as the ends that go into the radiator, if you need visual reference. If there isn't enough clearance, you can lower the transmission crossmember to get at them.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Oh interesting, so they're not screwed in... I was under the impression that they were. If thats the case do they make an appropiate fitting I can use with braided hoses to connect them to the transmission?

Edit: Re-researched this - so the Transmission fitting itself is a 1/4 NPS or NPT but the quick connect tool disconnects the factory line from the factory fitting in the transmission.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

the fitting that the line goes into is 1/4 NPS(1/4 pipe straight threads).

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yes they are screwed in. The fitting screws to the transmission, and the metal line holds in the fitting with a retaining clip. You can buy conversion fittings that convert 1/4 NPS to AN on ebay and other vendors.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

well in short its done now.

Originally what spawned this issue was my Ebay Aluminum Radiator wouldnt accept my stock transmission lines. I bought a transmission cooler from autozone to remedy this but I spliced into the original stock rubber hose and clamped down a hose connector to find the very next day it spit it right out and all my transmission fluid with it making me believe for sure I killed the transmission. Luckily it survived. Refilled with Amsoil fluid and a transmission shop basically re-clamped the line but I didnt feel safe with that kind of connection given at any given time it could just snap the clamp off and leave me on the side of the road.

Given my time constraints and the fact that I may have had to lower the transmission I decided to let a shop do it, knowing I was going to be raked for it but I needed this done.

The Aluminum Radiator just needed to be re-tapped so we ran stock lines back to the radiator and then on the outlet of the radiator we went to the transmission cooler and mounted it infront of the condensor and then from the outlet of the cooler back to the transmission using all AN Fittings and braided hoses.. Also had to have a custom bracket made for the cooler... So I have my piece of mind back as far as drivability is concerned.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Just an FYI, if you use barbed fittings and/or flared ends on the hard lines (fuel injection-style clamps can be used for added security), you won't have any problems with rubber lines blowing off. This is how mine has been for over a decade now without issues. Even the factory used a clamped rubber hose over a flared hard pipe for the return line.

The other issue is that some people use the wrong hose size, as some trans coolers come with 11/32" hose. This is too large of a diameter for the stock hard pipe so it won't clamp down properly, you need to use 5/16".

I know you have this fixed now, but I wanted to include this information for future reference/searches.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Great to know now. I'm unsure what clamps the transmission shop used but I didn't see anything special about them. I also had to do this to relocate my trans cooler infront of the condensor and currently it's running with the A/C on 90 degrees in humidity slightly below 210 on the coolant gauge. Since its a daily driver and my commute is greater than 50 miles one way it's just added security for me because it was quite a shock (and a tow truck) when my original setup came apart.