Windows won't go up? WTF?!?
04-23-2006, 03:00 PM
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Windows won't go up? WTF?!? My buddy picked up a 02 WS6 M6 a couple months ago. It has about 35K on it. I have a 00 T/A A4. Now when my power window motors went bad, they went bad slowly. They kept going slower and slower and then finally stopped. My friend is having trouble with his now. His windows would go up half way, then stop. The only way to get them up is to wait an hour or two, then try again. But even trying that they would still only go up a little at a time. I find it hard to believe that both motors are going bad at the same time. We tried changing the fuse on the side of the dash, but that did not help. Has anyone had this happen???? Thanks. 
04-23-2006, 08:52 PM
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ughh, i got the same problem, i think it's the motor for the power windows...they're about $20 a peice....but i dunno?..mine are at the point th where i roll them down...it's really crappy getting them back up, sometimes i have to help them up lol...
04-23-2006, 10:25 PM
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It is the window motor. My driver side did that. Got stuck about half way up. Only moved about a inch every 3 minutes. I had to let it sit for about 3 minutes and one inch every time. Took about 20 minutes to roll up my window. A replacement motor by Siemens is the way to go. Runs about $50 from AutoZone. It sounds like both went south. It might just be shitty luck that both went out at the same time, but I'd look around and see what else might run off the power window circuit to see if it is a fuse or a wiring issue. Good luck.
A replacement motor by Siemens is the way to go. Runs about $50 from AutoZone. It sounds like both went south. It might just be shitty luck that both went out at the same time, but I'd look around and see what else might run off the power window circuit to see if it is a fuse or a wiring issue. Good luck. Trending Topics
04-24-2006, 10:35 AM
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I just bought a 98 T/A, and it does the same damn thing!!
Both side windows go up extremely slow, the passenger side is the worst.
The previous owner said something about the "window regulator", I'm assuming thats the motor or a part of the motor??
Both side windows go up extremely slow, the passenger side is the worst.
The previous owner said something about the "window regulator", I'm assuming thats the motor or a part of the motor??
04-24-2006, 01:56 PM
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ITS THE WINDOW MOTOR! when trying to raise the window up pull up on the window to help the motor. If you do it like this it wont keep shutting down the motor because the motor wont have to work so hard. get you an aftermarket window motor unit off of ebay for 25 or 30 bucks and install it for 3 hours. You'll be alright
04-24-2006, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by linegtdt52
ITS THE WINDOW MOTOR! when trying to raise the window up pull up on the window to help the motor. If you do it like this it wont keep shutting down the motor because the motor wont have to work so hard. get you an aftermarket window motor unit off of ebay for 25 or 30 bucks and install it for 3 hours. You'll be alright
At least they are cheap, $30 is not bad at all.
04-25-2006, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Domestic Demon
I just bought a 98 T/A, and it does the same damn thing!!
Both side windows go up extremely slow, the passenger side is the worst.
The previous owner said something about the "window regulator", I'm assuming thats the motor or a part of the motor??
Both side windows go up extremely slow, the passenger side is the worst.
The previous owner said something about the "window regulator", I'm assuming thats the motor or a part of the motor??
same problem passenger side is the worst
06-04-2006, 09:14 PM
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I'm doing a how to on the regulator removal / motor replacement, with pics, I should have it done in a few days. Watch those parts store motors, they go out faster, I highly recommend a GM replacement, I have had the best results with these every time. Part # is 88960088 for 93-02 models, I got mine from GM parts direct (Flow Chevrolet) for about $95 to my door.
06-04-2006, 09:29 PM
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its a pain in the butt to remove the window regulator/ motor.. you gotta first take off the door panels (obviously).. then youre gonna be trying to fit your hands into the smallest places... it takes a little bit of time and patience lol
06-05-2006, 06:18 AM
#16
It's NOT necessary to pull the entire regulator assembly. All you have to do is be brave, and willing to create a couple of access holes in your inner door skin, and you can drill out the rivets that hold the motor in place, unplug the motor, and replace it.
I read a copy of a "how-to" either here, on this website, or in an older issue of "GM high tech performance" magazine. (this article might have been reproduced somewhere here, do a search) I did both of my motors 3 weeks ago. I was a little wary of doing the job, but once I "went to school" on the first one, the second went a lot easier.
Unfortunately, I don't own a digital camera, so I can't post any pictures. However, the main thing to remember is that you're going to have to remove some plastic parts to get the door panels off. In many cases, these parts are anywher from 4-10 years old. They've become brittle with age, and are not easily replaceable. BE CAREFUL!
If you pull the door panels, you can look through an access hole that's already in the door, right around the center. Through there, you can see the bottom of the window motor, and one of the retaining rivets. Enlarge this hole slightly, for drilling access. The second rivet is located slightly above, and slightly rearward, next to a recess that a wiring harness fits in. Using the new motor as a template, you can estimate where the third rivet is. The motor is oriented in an upward, angled position, going toward where the outside rear view mirror attaches. You'll also have to remove the speaker, for access to unplug and remove the motor.
I read a copy of a "how-to" either here, on this website, or in an older issue of "GM high tech performance" magazine. (this article might have been reproduced somewhere here, do a search) I did both of my motors 3 weeks ago. I was a little wary of doing the job, but once I "went to school" on the first one, the second went a lot easier.
Unfortunately, I don't own a digital camera, so I can't post any pictures. However, the main thing to remember is that you're going to have to remove some plastic parts to get the door panels off. In many cases, these parts are anywher from 4-10 years old. They've become brittle with age, and are not easily replaceable. BE CAREFUL!
If you pull the door panels, you can look through an access hole that's already in the door, right around the center. Through there, you can see the bottom of the window motor, and one of the retaining rivets. Enlarge this hole slightly, for drilling access. The second rivet is located slightly above, and slightly rearward, next to a recess that a wiring harness fits in. Using the new motor as a template, you can estimate where the third rivet is. The motor is oriented in an upward, angled position, going toward where the outside rear view mirror attaches. You'll also have to remove the speaker, for access to unplug and remove the motor.
06-05-2006, 02:14 PM
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I agree that the motors can be done with out the regulator removed, however I would never butcher my inside door frame/panels, nor would I allow someone to do that in my shop. I'm not saying this is the only right way, but the doors are fiberglass, and I always thought they were a flimsy addition to the 4th gen car and I would not want to compromise the integrity of the door. I have done a zillion of these since the body style was new in '93, as well as more Buick GN power windows than I can count. I have always pulled the regulator, and I firmly believe it is the most thorough method.
06-05-2006, 04:23 PM
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Someone has a good picture of where to drill out the door panel. Just like 3 half inch holes. Each door should take about 45 minutes to do after doing it one time. My buddies windows are perfect now. Anyone is the Cleveland area wanting it done, just pm me.
06-06-2006, 11:37 AM
#20
Originally Posted by mike s.
I agree that the motors can be done with out the regulator removed, however I would never butcher my inside door frame/panels, nor would I allow someone to do that in my shop. I'm not saying this is the only right way, but the doors are fiberglass, and I always thought they were a flimsy addition to the 4th gen car and I would not want to compromise the integrity of the door. I have done a zillion of these since the body style was new in '93, as well as more Buick GN power windows than I can count. I have always pulled the regulator, and I firmly believe it is the most thorough method.
Just my $0.02 worth....