A/C not blowing cold air, clutch does not engage
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Toms River, NJ
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A/C not blowing cold air, clutch does not engage
I went to turn on my AC the other day and it blows hot air... The car has only 41,000 miles on it and its a 2000. I assume I might have a leak. Here is what I checked so far. I swapped the A/C relay with the fuel pump and the car still runs so thats not it. I checked the other fuse and that is good as well. I then put a gauge on the (guess it was the low pressure line) and it did not read anything with the air on max and blower on fuel. I did not see the high pressure port but I had to look at this stuff in 10 mins or less so will look more today.
Questions:
What should the PSI reading be on both lines when it is full?
The high pressure line-port is that by the radiator fill cap and the low is on the upper side next to the evaporator?
Thanks for the help!
Questions:
What should the PSI reading be on both lines when it is full?
The high pressure line-port is that by the radiator fill cap and the low is on the upper side next to the evaporator?
Thanks for the help!
#2
TECH Senior Member
You should still read pressure even with the compressor off, it'll depend on the ambient temp. For example: Above 60* 50 psi, above 75* 70 psi, above 90* 100 psi. Pressures change when the compressor comes on. If you're not reading any static pressure at all sounds like it's all leaked out.
#3
TECH Resident
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Montgomery, TX
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've said this to a few people lately...get a diagnostic test done at a service shop. it will cost $40-$80 and u will know for sure what the deal is. I saved myself a few hundred bucks by doing this. it will be worth it. good luck
#6
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Narnia
Posts: 2,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would check the pressure with a manifold gauge set, see what you get. If it is extremely low the low pressure switch will interupt the compressor clutch from engaging.
If it is very low, add some refrigerant with die and look for the leak. If it is not low and the compressor will not kick on, you can bypass the low pressure switch by contacting the point in the connector. The low/high pressure sensor is the plug with 2 wires going to it closer to the main unit on the fire wall. If that does not work, you can run the compressor straight to the positive side of the battery.
At least this will tell you where to start looking.
Taking your car to a shop - My car will not see a shop except for tires or engine machine work.
If it is very low, add some refrigerant with die and look for the leak. If it is not low and the compressor will not kick on, you can bypass the low pressure switch by contacting the point in the connector. The low/high pressure sensor is the plug with 2 wires going to it closer to the main unit on the fire wall. If that does not work, you can run the compressor straight to the positive side of the battery.
At least this will tell you where to start looking.
Taking your car to a shop - My car will not see a shop except for tires or engine machine work.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Senior Member
You said you have a gauge - did you have any static pressure? If not bring it somewhere, needs to be vacuumed at least before recharging, then check for leaks. If you have any pressure at all I'd get a recharge kit with dye, charge it, then see what happens.
#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Narnia
Posts: 2,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I mean really, if you like your car and like working on it, buy the tools.
They will pay off.
I do not work in a shop, but I have all the tools necessary to tear down a engine and evacuate the whole AC system.
All the tools you will need will cost you the same amount of money as taking the car to the shop once.