SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

Since i started the whole bolt on journey ive learned quite a few things. One is that doing a little research on LS1 tech and other f-bod websites can save you a lot of money and heartache in the long run. This was my experience, part by part. How each felt SOTP (TO ME!!) & if i thought it was worth the $.

I bought the SS already with the clutch & a lid. My first bolt on was the K&N FIPK1. I had a normal design aftermarket wisper lid with a K&N to start and the FIPK made a noticeable difference. The power felt a little smoother/healthier. I paid $320 and cant deny that i was satisfied despite the fact i can find them for much cheaper now + it takes 5 min. Good mod!

The next thing i did was the Hooker headers and they took 5 hours with help. I got mine uncoated with all hardware for $320. I changed the spark plugs at the same time and have to say that although the car felt noticeably more powerful i was kinda hopin for more from this mod for some reason. I was already running stock catless prior and was pretty happy with the sound and feel. Still a good mod tho. Also necessary if ya wanna go much further IMO.

Next was the TB. Now first i had a BBK on it to "test". I LOVED the SOTP power diff. but HATED the loss in driveability. It seemed the throttle was way touchy and just taking off from a dead stop was a bit challenging. After a week it was no fun so i got a well ported TB instead. Although i felt like i did give up some SOTP power the driveability went from worse than stock to better than stock. Its easier than ever to coordinate clutch, revs, & shifts. $80 good mod!

this is where ill have to pick up on the T/A - it has all the same parts but a BBK tb.

I truly could not ignore the SOTP power increase of the BBK 80mm so i tried it on my auto T/A. Perfect match - the computer takes care of the driveability - although i did have to adjust my TPS to 5% i figure that makes sense. The throttle blade is open further than stock to compensate for having no idle hole. My reason? The car seemed to shift a little earlier than normal so i had my bud watch the %#'s on HP tuners as we adjusted. $200 and a great a4 mod after some adjustment.

Before i get too much further i must say that before i ever took the stock tb off the T/A i had it dyno tuned with just headers, FIPK, EGR delete, AIR delete
With 135k untuned it put down 290/292 to start it had 312/320 when they were done.
This costed $400 from TSP and as soon as i drove away i noticed a diff. Once again driveability and smoother, healthier power all across the board. You cant help but feel an extra 22ponies and 27ft lbs to the road i promise. Great mod for the $!!

Last but not least was my struggle with the great intake debate! I had decided on the Weiand but there was one thread that changed my mind. A guy mentioned that he couldent put his hand on the alm intake after driving it was so hot. Although i believe that the air dosent sit long enough to noticeably increase air temp the thought of one more hot *** part under the hood was not too appealing. So i went with the LS6. Install was almost as big a pain in the *** as the headers - found 2 old nasty vacuum leaks on the backside PCV line (-$150 + 2 days, thanks GM!!) and also broke the friggin oil sending unit (press/temp swich whatever! -$50) even after all the research. NO FUN! When we finished we went for the obligatory drive and i was dissapointed AT FIRST. Kinda like the headers my expectations were way high and i wasnt left like "OMG thats way faster!". HOWEVER after several days of driving around i have to admit that like all other "good" mods - it made a SOTP noticeable difference. The car requires less pedal to get the same go as before. Smoother healthier power. Thats the bolt on motto. LS6 $400 brand new - i hand sanded each individual port and smoothed the runners (theres some molding ridges or something near the ports - GONE)

Felt like the CAI and the tune gave me power across the board, the headers are more noticeable up high in the RPM's and the tb/intake upgrades were more noticeable at (lower) normal driving RPM's. Once again IMO of course. I think i still get almost identical gas mileage to stock.

If anybodys still reading im sorry it was so long, just wanted to share my conclusions. Now that im at the end of the bolt on road and got here guided by the all knowing hands of LS1tech i just wanted to say thanks to the whole community for helping me all along the way!

HMERacing

The oil sending unit is way easy to break. I was taking my time and being carefull and broke it on my TA. oops. Luckily the dealer had it in stock.

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

Have the SLP pulley - goin on the T/A in a couple weekends - ill update.

HMERacing

Def update after the pulley. I have had an SLP pulley sitting on my desk for months. Oh well, it will go on one of these days.

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

The pulley can be a pain. I would do the pulley when you upgrade the cam since it has to come off then anyway.

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

I hear they're impossible to do right w/o the puller - thank god i have buds thatr GM mechs. 30min for them.

Ls1Rook

iTrader: (1)

Seems like most bolt ons give more after a cam and tune.. know of anyone adding a cam first then the rest of the bolt ons?? I guess im going suspension/gears/stall/tires first...to see whats really helping me at the end when i add stuff

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

no but im sure theres a few - i know a bunch of guys that do alot a crap at once and never get it right - theyve changed so much stuff they dont even know where to start troubleshooting a problem. Thats why my properly running bolt on car fender raced your 550+lift cammed car i tell em. Some folks just dont appreciate the proper methodology, or the time it takes to dial in each individual part. Basically, put em on one by one and fix any problems one by one because you WILL have them.

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

Its been a while & i just thought id update - i never ended up putting on the SLP pulley i bought, in fact i ended up selling it. My reason? Ever since i changed the orig serpantine belt on the car i progressively started hearing a squeal. First i replaced the idler pulley w/ O'reillys/AutoZone parts and it never fit properly. Finally went to GM for one and it included a dustcover that wasnt in the other kits and the pulley was shaped a fraction different. Still didnt solve the squeal tho. So, i buy another new belt, once again a gates - still same problem (hell even worse!). So i replace the water pump since it makes a lil noise when i spin it by hand and the car has 140k on it. Still as soon as i start it up, its squealin like a pig. So as a last resort i go buy a GM factory serp. belt and ya know what - the fukin noise never ever ever came back. Lookin at the GM and Gates side by side the GM had slightly different shaped ribs and a little thicker material. I just about dropped the car off at a freakin dealer and said keep the muthafu**r. $55 fix that costed me like $400 to narrow down. Anyway since it took all that heartache to get the freakin squeal eliminated no pulley or belt swaps in the near future for me. I heard the 6speeds are more suseptable to the alt drain issue so never wanted to put it on the SS. Sorry just wanted to thro that in since i never updated like promised. I am going to update on what the kid that bought it thinks tho.

GMRL

A couple things I would like to add.
With the mileage on the car, I would replace the fuel pump.
Alot of times they will start to loose pressure with age.
Also valvesprings are a must, the stockers are definatly well worn.
Some nice roller rocker would be a nice addition as well.

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

although i have head of fuel pumps going bad around this mileage i change my in line filter regularly and have had no problems thus far. Valvesprings tho? Nada my man, Never ever ever heard of factory valvesprings having issues even past 200k!!!! If u have an aftermarket cam with decent lift then yea every 30k or so theyll need replacing. If u are a dumass and setup any valvetrain w/1000lbs of seat pressure for a miniscule decrease in the time each valve event occurs then yea theyd need replaced all the time but not factory my man. They do it so it only needs done once. Not to say freak **** dont happen but until my track times or dyno #'s fall off, nothin under the valvecovers is gettin touched until the cam goes in.

BTW 3 weeks ago me and my bud ran his 25 thousand mile 02 Firehawk against my 142 thousand mile 99 T/A with IDENTICAL down to the brand of each part bolt ons - he ran one hundreth faster than me and i ran a half a mile per hour faster than him. DEAD NUTS EVEN ALL DAY LONG. LS1's are solid 4 life if taken care of!!!!! No valvespring probs if u stick w/boltons forsure!

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

Ive done my research - unless u had previously made too small a choice on your cam and just want to increase your lift a lil, changin your rocker ratio is a waste of time/money - no one ever told me (and i did alot of askin) they got a gain from rockers on a bolt on car - once again if i geta cam ill do those but even then id stick stock ratio. Grinding valvecovers sucks from what i hear as well, no thank you!