v8maro

iTrader: (4)

I've read/seen many posts about installing these things and I would like to see the final answer.
Did you have to remove the starter to install these?
Did you have to disconnect the steering wheel?
Were these steps necessary to complete the install?

Please include your year of car and make.
thanks
-Steve

mikemodano9c

it might not be exactly the same for every car...thats your answer...

plan on doing the above things...none of them take that long or are that hard...

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

I have no problem doing them, I just don't want to when I hear stories from X amount of people that don't do that.
Ya know what I am saying?
Do I have to move the motor or trans up at all?

-Steve

Technoman64

iTrader: (6)

I installed a set on a 99 TransAm and did not have to remove the starter. I had the car 18" off the ground on all 4 corners. There was just a bit of inteferance on the drivers side. I knudged the header up in with a shorty bar. It was hitting on the rear corner of the flange that bolts to the head. If you are installing EGR and AIR systems be sure that the set you get have the mounting tubes/plates in the correct position. I would buy them again and not think twice about it.

critter

iTrader: (9)

No
No. I chose to trim the tab on the block instead
Not the ones you mention.
2000 Z28

The only other grief was:
1) the ORP it the floor, so I stuck in 6" of heater hose where it was hitting. It is still there.
2) the SLP catback was the same size as the ORP, so I had to kludge a coupling with old pipe and band clamp.

I left the AIR and EGR off, so can't comment on the fit of those.

I had the car 16" off the ground on both ends.

BadManLS1

iTrader: (1)

You do not have to remove the starter...I did have to remove the heat shield on the passenger side for clearence...you can put the shield back on after the header is on. I removed the steering shaft on the drivers side to get the header on...you don't have to grind the block if you do it this way...it was easy to get off and put back on. The header on the drivers side is close to the K-member...you can either grind it down some or install a poly motor mount to keep it from hitting and creating false KR. I went with the poly mount. The y-pipe on the drivers side will hit the floor board when you take off hard...I put heater hose on those spots and it solved the problem. All of this can be done with the car on jack stands. It's not that hard of an install just take your time. I would do it again if I had too...great sound and performance with the Pacesetters.

SSactionLs1

can you elaborate on tha false KR thing...cuz i still havent trimmed my K and it hits (atleast at warmup)

Z06PSI

iTrader: (33)

Put a set of 01-02's(no EGR or AIR) on my 00 SS and the only thing unusual was the removal of the steering shaft.(didn't have to remove it with the MAC's) ....pretty straight forward and had 0 problems...

BadManLS1

iTrader: (1)

False KR is a vibration (knock) that will set off the knock sensors and pull out timing...which = loss of HP. If the headers or the y-pipe is banging anywhere it will pull timing. So to prevent it from hitting the K member you can either grind the portion back that it hits or put in a poly motor mount to stop the movement. You can also do the torque strap mod to prevent this from hitting (do a search on it)....But the poly mount is a sure fix. On the y-pipe you can put heater hose or hangers to prevent it from hitting the floorboard. To give you an example of how bad it can hurt your HP and times....After I put the headers on and went to the track it ran almost the same time as before the headers because of it hitting...after I got the poly mount and put the heater hoses on the y-pipe, it ran 3 tenths faster and gained MPH!

monodax

I put these on back in April of this year when they where "experimental" lol. They have been fine since and as far as fitment issues I have read where SOME people have to do crazy things like lower the tranny, raise the engine, cut on the block or k-member. I had to do nothing but just disconnect the steering linkage which is like 5 mins tops and is very easy. Nothing was difficult really just time consuming considering I did it alone in my garage on jack stands on the weekend. But as stated above it just depends on the car and the batch of headers you received. I believe their is enough variance in the tolerances of these cars to make a difference for builders of headers/exhaust to make all fit perfectly. The coating has held up well and looks almost new except for were i scrape on speed bumps but that is the norm. If you get into installing them you will have alot of help on these forums as now this is a popular header and it has proven itself over and over as people install them.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

so im lookin into gettin some pacesetters, how is the fit compaired to the jet hots? if i get poly motor mounts would that be a good idea? and how close is the fit and have the improved the design??

DeepBlueZ

1998 Z28 A4

starter wasnt moved....steering linkage was loosened

BTW: my car seems to be running at least up to its potential if not past and i recently noticed marks in one spot on the driver side header where its real close to the K-member and another spot under the car on the ORP. I was worried about KR too but i dont seem to be getting it and the exhaust IS contacting the car from time to time?????

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

Mine is touching the k-member, and I can't even break the tires loose from power loss. Although it could just be I can't hear the tires with how damn loud it is. Pulls like a bitch up top though.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

yeah i ended up getting some, i had to grind the kmember down, and i love them

foff667

iTrader: (2)

myth- removal of starter needed truth- jack the car up high enough 25-30inches and it shouldnt be necessary.

myth- removal or partial dissassembly of steering linkage needed truth-cut off the casting flash using a sawsaw or grinder and the drivers side header should go in

youll probably have to clearance the kmember a bit and ypipe fit is so so.

lata
Bill

MadIceV8

iTrader: (12)

Only extra things I needed to do was grind down the block a little bit and the k-member.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i didnt touch the block but the y pipe did hit my torque arm

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

What's everyone using to grind the k-member after the headers are in?

foff667

iTrader: (2)

i used a sawsaw i did a writeup on my site check it out in my sig.

lata
Bill

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i used a dremil and 3 steel bits, took a min or 2, then used a file to finish it off