PLEASE HELP!! car running horribly after moser 9" install w open headers
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PLEASE HELP!! car running horribly after moser 9" install w open headers
just got done w the moser 9" intall and had to remove all my exhaust after the headers. got it started and went out to do my heat cycling. it seemed to lack power. when i cruze for about 30 sec, it starts bucking and shuttering and i have to tap the gas to get it to run right again. while on the highway, it got real bad, like to the point i shifted into second and couldnt bearly get up a hill and had to put my flashers on and limp up it at like 20. it would make a gargling type exhaust sound and lack any power at all. I had to pull over and call AAA. that sound was making me sick and i felt like i might have needed to shoot it with a rifle to put it out of its misery.
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IDK your mods, but i know that when i have open headers with my cam i have absolutely 0 low end (below 2K) and it acts a lot like what your saying, but then again i have a "donkey dick" cam
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.623 lift comp cam, springs, pushrods, pace setter headers, UD pulley, ls6 intake, ported/polished TB, LID, MSD wires, TR7 gapped to .035, spec 3+ clutch, Spohn TA, Moser 9" w/ 4.30s anda Nascar detroit locker, 125 shot, Walbro 255, used to have a 3" exhaust with a y-pipe until i had to remove it. I wish I had my WB hooked up so i could see wats going on but the bung is not on the header.
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how would he have burnt a valve? i ran around open collector, and i even have shortened collectors for 3 months and never hurt anything, im about 99% certain the opinion on the forum is thats an old wives tail and a big pile of
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well I put my y pipe back on and it seems to run alot better, I got a flashing ses now so im going to autozone to see where the misfire is. hopefully my o2s arent bad. :o i pulled #2 and #3 to see if they were fouled but they looked fine so im going to see what the scanner says. The problem was infact because of the o2s being too close to the air, when i hooked my y-pipe back on i was able to hook in the WB and is was reading like 11 to 12:1 with no load and like 10:1 tapping the gas until it changed the LTFT.
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well I put my y pipe back on and it seems to run alot better, I got a flashing ses now so im going to autozone to see where the misfire is. hopefully my o2s arent bad. :o i pulled #2 and #3 to see if they were fouled but they looked fine so im going to see what the scanner says. The problem was infact because of the o2s being too close to the air, when i hooked my y-pipe back on i was able to hook in the WB and is was reading like 11 to 12:1 with no load and like 10:1 tapping the gas until it changed the LTFT.
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I went to autozone and pulled up a P0307 or Cylinder 7 misfire. I'm about to pull the plug and see whats up. can you just use some break cleaner to clean fouled plugs? cause they are pretty new, like 4,000 miles on them. they are TR7's and can't be found at the autozone.
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I went to autozone and pulled up a P0307 or Cylinder 7 misfire. I'm about to pull the plug and see whats up. can you just use some break cleaner to clean fouled plugs? cause they are pretty new, like 4,000 miles on them. they are TR7's and can't be found at the autozone.
could you not get by with a tr6?
as far as cleaning, not sure.. i doubt it.. i would just go ahead and replace them, but thats me..
#14
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you cant ask for a "tr6" though.. they wont even know what that is...
i dont know the number for it.. but look around on here and there are a few threads of people complaining they cant get them and then people say whatever autozone calls it... they go back and get them...
#15
TR6 is stock number 4177
Nitrous (one step colder)
Heat Range: 6
Gap: .035 - .038
Plug: NGK TR6 (stock number 4177); NGK TR6IX (stock number 3689); Autolite 103; Denso IT-20 (stock number 5326)
Nitrous (one step colder)
Heat Range: 6
Gap: .035 - .038
Plug: NGK TR6 (stock number 4177); NGK TR6IX (stock number 3689); Autolite 103; Denso IT-20 (stock number 5326)