BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Ok, here is my post from another thread to get everyone up to speed:

Man my 99' TA is acting weird right now too. Here is what happened to me.

Driving home everything is normal, get about 2 miles from home & a new Camaro is behind me messin with me. I blip the throttle real quick & it falls on its face at 3500 rpm. I instantly hear the dreaded fuel pump whine. I limped it home the rest of the way. Bought a used stock pump from a 02' SS with under 50k miles on it. No more whine, pumps good to go. Take the car for a drive & its better but still limp. Take it to a buddy & we slap a new fuel filter on it & discover why the stock pump burned up. The filter was so clogged you couldnt blow through it. So now its got a fresh filter & good pump. Still limp though & now really smells like gas. But its not throwin any codes. Just out of curiousity I switch my Interceptor gauge from knock/coolant to watch my O2 sensors on B1 & B2, low & behold B2 is just sitting on 450 not switching while B1 is bouncing all over the place. So now I'm assuming a dead O2 sensor which would cause the extra rich smell. My only problem is its my daily & I havent had a chance to pick up a new set of 13111's yet. I'm praying I dont wash the cylinders before I can get it fixed or I'm gonna be screwed.

So fast forward to today. Car has now thrown a code, I havent read it yet but the SES light is steady on. I'm goin out to my wifes grandpas house to do the following maintaince as soon as I get off work in a couple hours. I'm hoping all this will fix it & bring the car back to life.

Maintaince:

new Autolite 193 plugs
oil change
LS6 install w/new intake gaskets
clean coil packs
degrease entire engine (pretty filthy)
slap on new powder coated valve covers with fresh cover gaskets
check rockers
check valve springs
new Bosch 13111 O2 sensors
check injectors for any possible debris
clean MAF with MAF cleaner
new air filter
clean TB & sensors
clean AIT sensor
check knock sensor condition while intake is off

I have seen & found a few threads with people having similar issues. There are mixed results for fixes to it so I'm just gonna cover them all, LOL. Car has 161k miles & could use a good tune up.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well got it all done. Found a couple issues as well. And have some advice from my discoveries. First off, anyone running a O2 harness extension I advise you to check it out & see if you find what I found. Mine was so brittle it crumbled in my hands & the wires were melting on the driverside. The new 13111 Bosch sensors came with a longer harness so the extensions arent needed. They also have a black heat resistant jacket covering the wires instead of plastic wire loom. Definetly a worth while upgrade.

I also kept my plugs & labeled them which I'll add as soon as I get some pics. I found the notorious hole in the "Y" piece of the PCV hose behind the intake & the connection to the rear passanger side valve cover is also ripped & leaking. I'm thinking time for a catch can & be done with this crap. I could tell by looking in the runners in the heads while swapping intakes that its time for the PCV to go.

Final verdict is it runs like a whole new car now. Except...LOL, there is always a damn except. Never before did it take two hit of the ignition to start the car, but since this problem first began it does. And sometimes it'll idle perfect then just start hunting for idle all the sudden & when it does this if I blip the throttle it almost trys to bog or choke for a second them the RPM's come up. I'm gonna try playing with the set scer on the TB for the blade to see if that helps & at worst try to get my buddy to tune it this weekend. I know 4yrs ago when I thought I was getting nitrous I had a tuner pull 4* timing out while he was turning off/deleting codes. I'm thinking this could also be a factor so first I'm gonna have him flash it back to stock & see what happens, then we can tweak it from there.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Took it on lunch & had the codes pulled. Its poppin a P0300 & P0174. I talked to a friend right before lunch & he asked me a question that made me slap myself in the face. I totally forgot to unhook the battery when I did all the work. So I'm doin that after I eat & then after work I'll start & drive it a couple times to let it relearn & see what happens.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Hmmm, unhooked the battery & let it sit for a few then hooked it back up & restarted the car. Took a second to find idle then was smooth like before these issues ever started, no sluggish reaction when I blip the throttle but the "Service Engine Soon" light is still on. Its the one in the upper right of the cluster, not the lower left. I'm still not 100% what the friggin difference is & why we have 2 of those, LOL.

Car is running smooth though & obviously has picked up the missing power. I have no choice but to drive it till this weekend since its my daily driver, then my buddy should be able to tune it I hope.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Ok, so after even more research & asking around I'm gonna try pulling the PCM BATT & PCM IGN fuses on lunch & then follow the diagnosic driving sequence to reset everything.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

Damn Mike you are having a lot of problems That really sucks..

Pulling the negative terminal on the battery for about 15 mins should have done the trick for you.. What are codes P0300 & P0174?? And why when you hooked up the batter you got the SES light is beyond me.. I had no idea there were 2 lights.. then again I've never had my SES light trip before.

Good luck Mike.. You prolly should have used NGK TR55 plugs... The f-bodies seem to really love them

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I wont use NGK's in a LS engine, seen too many with failures. I only run Autolite plugs, never had a single issue.

LOL, yea there is 2 different service lights. The codes are:

P0300: Random cylinder misfire
P0174: O2 sensor failure bank 2

First I'm gonna go have the Autozone boys delete the codes on lunch & if it comes back tonight I'll pull the fuses & follow the driving cycle directions I found from Autotap to relearn the PCM. Reguardless this weekend it should be getting tuned finally.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well never mind, just got off the phone with the Autozone pussies & they wont clear any codes, just pull the code. Tried to tell me it was illegal, friggin douche bags.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

hmmm never heard of anyone having issues with the NGKs...

What is the second service light? I only know of SES and check gauges lol
You should just buy the little OBD II scanner from them.. I bought one with my AutoZone rewards card and out pocket cost to me was like $10

MM98

iTrader: (13)

The random misfire code is very common on a untuned cammed car, easy fix with tunning.. Referring to the two ses lights on our cars.. I never knew about the bottom left red one until my last cam swap.. Once I started, it felt kinda funny & noticed that a lil red light flashing intermitantly at me.. I've never seen it before, so I knew something must be going on.. Sure enough, I failed to get the last plug wire on the passenger side all the way on. Once I did, the light was gone. I always thought the main yellow/orange ses light would flash if you had a true misfire. Anyways, not real helpful, but that was my one run in with that light. Hope you get it figured out.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

What sucks & is starting to **** me off about the whole situation is the car ran flawlessly before the first time it ever sputtered. I've driven it daily for just over 60k miles total over the last 3yrs since doin the H/C swap & it never skipped a beat. Idled right on 900rpm never missed never popped codes except in the winter from the O2's not getting hot enough, but once it was warmed up I could shut the car off & restart it without any codes.

Now since this happened its been like a damn dog chasing its tail. I have replaced the following in the past 2 weeks to try & fix this thing...

fuel pump
plugs
air filter
fuel filter
cleaned MAF
new Bosch 13111 O2 sensors
oil change
LS6 intake
new intake gaskets
new valve cover gaskets
cleaned TB

And now I'm gonna pull the fuses after work & see what happens. Its still got a slight hesitation when you start to accelerate from a stop. Maybe the codes being thrown is effecting it so I'm hopin the fuse trick helps. If not I'll just have to wait. Sucks but it is what it is...

MM98

iTrader: (13)

Just a thought here, but have you re-logged your O2's since you replaced them? You mentioned you just changed them, but you're still setting an O2 code. I wonder if you maybe have a burned up connector terminal on one of your O2 plugs.. Not on the O2 connector side, but the connector it plugs into on the body harness.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Hmmm, ya know that actually crossed my mind but I let it go & moved on. I'll definetly check that.

Another thing that striking me as weird is that on my Interceptor gauge when I try to watch the O2 sensors to see if they are switching I can push the button once & it'll change off of bank 1 but for bank 2 I have to push it twice. And only one of them matches bank 1 with its readings, the other sits steady on 450 maybe goin up/down 5 in the reading but thats it. I was kinda wondering if since the code had been tripped, parts replaced but codes not properly turned off or reset if its telling the PCM its got a bad sensor in the car still even though its been replaced. Thats what makes me wanna try pulling those fuses to reset the codes.

Can the O2 extension melting cause the actual terminal it plugs into to short out? I'm guessing if the ternimal is bad when we hook the EFIlive up to it we will be able to tell?

MM98

iTrader: (13)

The computer will just store the code until cleared.. If you don't clear the code, it will run a pass/fail test & the light will go off if it's working properly. To answer your question, no, if the new o2 is working properly the uncleared dtc will not affect it.

Anything is possible, if your new o2 sensor is still not switching, then you either have a crap one out of the box or possibly bad connector not getting power to it.. I spent $400 on a new ac compressor & dryer only to find out that the problem was a bad ac clutch coil connector!

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Thats exactly what I"m not in the position right ow to do. I just cant afford to blindly toss money at it but at the same time its my daily driver so I have to get it figured out. Luckily my buddy is gonna tune it for just the cost of another liscense from EFIlive.

I'm really curious about the gauge & the fact that i can get 2 different readings for bank 2 but only 1 for bank 1. One of the readings I get on bank 2 will change & match the reading I get for bank 1.

Things that make you say hmmmmmmmmmm, WTF!!! LMFAO

MM98

iTrader: (13)

I hear ya man! I wish i would have done a lil more detective work rather than just thinking it was the problem.. Your friends efi live should be able to show if the o2's are functioning correctly.. Im not fimiliar with the interceptor gauge you're using.. If you get some free time, just have a look at the connectors.. You can usually see lil burn/hot spots on them. Good luck & let us know what you find.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

See & visually I looked at the connectors when I found the extension all burnt up. Everything still looks great but of course its tucked up in there pretty good & kinda hard to see things sometimes without a lift.

As far as the dash lights go, I just found this...

"Service Engine Soon" light is the upper right one, will illuminate if its a emissions system issue.

"Service Vehicle" is for a mechanical issue with the engine & needs to be immediately addressed.

Just incase anyone was wondering, lol.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Ok, now I'm pissed, confused, frusterated & have not a clue whats goin on. Pulled the fuses last night per all the instruction I found & the damn SES light is still on. Still has the sluggish feeling when taking off & the car didnt act like it was hunting for idle after pulling the fuses which struck me as weird cause that was supposed to reset fuel trims & everything but I'm thinking it didnt for some reason.

Also just happened to look in the fuse box while I was waiting for the other fuses to see why my hazards stopped working, damn fuse was melted & deformed. Anyone know what could cause that?

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

swap o2's from one side to the other... that will tell you if its the sensor or wiring. From what I have found only ac delco o2's seem to work on cars with lt headers. i had a set of bosch and they wouldnt switch properly... Im guessin its a temperature thing since the headers run cooler than manifolds.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Thats why I went with the Corvette Bosch 13111, the baffling in them is supposed to be a little different & get better readings when running LT's.

Right now my scan gauge is showing bank1 & bank2 now almost identical in readings & movement, so I'm starting to lean away from the sensors being the issue.

I have a extra set of coil packs I'm gonna swap on & recheck all the plug wire connection today as well as check the fuel pressure at the rails. Next thing I can think of thats free to do is remove the LS6 intake & reinstall it to make sure it is seated properly with no pinched gaskets.