Do I have any bolt-ons I can do that would be "worth it"?
#1
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do I have any bolt-ons I can do that would be "worth it"?
Looking at my mods in sig does anybody know of any good mods left to do? I don't want to do pulleys. I cant reeally think of anything else that would be worth it. I would like to get an 11.99 with bolt-ons only before I get a cam package. I just bought some 315 nittor 555r's to maybe help my 1.78 60ft out a little bit. Im gonna run it one more time at the end of the season when its cooler to try and get a new best. Anything you guys can think of? I also have a cutout just after the y-pipe and magnaflow catback.
#3
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Amarillo Tx
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just installed my asp underdrive pulley and love it , feels like the midrange is stronger which carries itself through the top better. But since you said no pullies There's ported and polished throttle body , ported ls6 intake, larger maf, smooth bellow, weight reduction, hoolah girl dash ornament ,all of them together will add up to get what you need well maybe not the hoolah girl ha.
#5
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think it has alum drive shaft stock.. I have 3.23 gears. Not going to do any different gear because there wouldn't be enuf gain for whats lost. I am thinking about a ported throttle body and the fast intake I have thought about, but god damn they are exspensive as hell.
#6
yea the steel came with the 2.73s which i had, so I opted for the 3.42s and al ds. I feel your pain on the intake, makes more sense just to do the cam when you put 1k in a damn intake manifold. do you have a good merge pipe on the y, I just changed mine out feels like I gained a bit through the band since mine was choked down to 2.5" by the previous exhaust shop i had do work on it.
#7
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the pacesetter y-pipe. Unless I can find a used fast intake I will probably just go with the ported throttle body. I think FAST would make so much more money if they made the price a cuple hundred dollars cheaper. they would sell so many more it would be worth it and customers would be getting a good deal instead of a 1k ******* intake manifold. I can't beleive no one else makes a good intake manifold cheaper.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
I would first move to a 4000 converter, sure you don't want to hear that so...
Fix your exhaust.
1 7/8 headers flowmaster y 3"-4" with a 4" I pipe cutout then reduced to 3" and your choice of muffler.
Ftra is decent.. I would see what you could get out of it and maybe get a chrs1313, small difference money wise but you will pick up a little.
After that.. Used Fast 90 or 92 setup.. They can be had for 700-850 with a tb and you can keep stock rails.
Only thing left is an ewp, which is expensive for the performance gain.
If you really wanted you could go to a bigger diameter lid and maf, or sd tune after the intake and tb.
Honestly, I would fix/upgrade the bolt ons you have now for the best you can get. You will spend about the same as buying another bolt on, but also gain about the same.... As well as having better supporting mods for later.
Fix your exhaust.
1 7/8 headers flowmaster y 3"-4" with a 4" I pipe cutout then reduced to 3" and your choice of muffler.
Ftra is decent.. I would see what you could get out of it and maybe get a chrs1313, small difference money wise but you will pick up a little.
After that.. Used Fast 90 or 92 setup.. They can be had for 700-850 with a tb and you can keep stock rails.
Only thing left is an ewp, which is expensive for the performance gain.
If you really wanted you could go to a bigger diameter lid and maf, or sd tune after the intake and tb.
Honestly, I would fix/upgrade the bolt ons you have now for the best you can get. You will spend about the same as buying another bolt on, but also gain about the same.... As well as having better supporting mods for later.
#9
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would first move to a 4000 converter, sure you don't want to hear that so...
Fix your exhaust.
1 7/8 headers flowmaster y 3"-4" with a 4" I pipe cutout then reduced to 3" and your choice of muffler.
Ftra is decent.. I would see what you could get out of it and maybe get a chrs1313, small difference money wise but you will pick up a little.
After that.. Used Fast 90 or 92 setup.. They can be had for 700-850 with a tb and you can keep stock rails.
Only thing left is an ewp, which is expensive for the performance gain.
If you really wanted you could go to a bigger diameter lid and maf, or sd tune after the intake and tb.
Honestly, I would fix/upgrade the bolt ons you have now for the best you can get. You will spend about the same as buying another bolt on, but also gain about the same.... As well as having better supporting mods for later.
Fix your exhaust.
1 7/8 headers flowmaster y 3"-4" with a 4" I pipe cutout then reduced to 3" and your choice of muffler.
Ftra is decent.. I would see what you could get out of it and maybe get a chrs1313, small difference money wise but you will pick up a little.
After that.. Used Fast 90 or 92 setup.. They can be had for 700-850 with a tb and you can keep stock rails.
Only thing left is an ewp, which is expensive for the performance gain.
If you really wanted you could go to a bigger diameter lid and maf, or sd tune after the intake and tb.
Honestly, I would fix/upgrade the bolt ons you have now for the best you can get. You will spend about the same as buying another bolt on, but also gain about the same.... As well as having better supporting mods for later.
#10
I say go with the P&P Throttle Body. Those have been shown to gain up to 5WHP on a stock LS1. With all your supporting mods you might gain a couple more than that.
Although if you don't mind spending a few bucks more you could just buy a bigger TB.
Although if you don't mind spending a few bucks more you could just buy a bigger TB.
#14
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you had good Ideas. I guess im just not that desperate to get that extra little bit out of it. Hopefully when I go back in sep with maybe a p&p throttle body and the better tires I can hit a 12.2 or so. I guess I ran the 12.3 with 89 octane so I will run 91 this next time also and see what that gets me.
#17
you had good Ideas. I guess im just not that desperate to get that extra little bit out of it. Hopefully when I go back in sep with maybe a p&p throttle body and the better tires I can hit a 12.2 or so. I guess I ran the 12.3 with 89 octane so I will run 91 this next time also and see what that gets me.
#20
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Probably a dumb question, but do you do weight reduction for your track runs? 1/4 tank of gas, spare tire and jack removal? If you have a wrench and don't mind killing some time you could remove the back seat and passenger seat. All of those combined you can save 100-150 lbs.