venom 13

iTrader: (7)

I would like some input on re-pinning a 1998 harness for use with a 2002 PCM. As this is my first time and I am not good with electrical systems, I want to make sure the schematic I am using is correct and if my understanding of the information is also correct.

From my understanding, the process should go something like as follows:

Question 1)
Is this the correct interpretation?
The diagram says:

1. Red C1-3 WHT TO Red C2-45



This means take out the wire (White Wire) from the 98 harness, which would be located on the “red” side, that is in the Pin Hole # 3.

Plug that wire into Pin Hole # 45.

And repeat for each step. (I’ll be pulling each one first, labeling then, inserting into corresponding pin holes)

Question 2)
How do I get the screw with retainer out? (The one holding the red cover to the aluminum housing, it has some retainer on the screw) And yes I’m serious…I swapped an entire motor into the car but don’t know how to get that one screw out lol

Question 3)
The diagram says some wires that are in the red housing, will end up in the blue housing....does this mean I'll have to undo all of the protective loom (all the way to the original plug for that wire), and re run the entire wire for that specific section of wire loom? Or can I just trim the loom back then run it up after the wire loom split for the red and blue housings?


Example: 34. Red C1-44 YEL TO Blue C1-12

Question 4)
Does the diagram I’m using, look like the correct one for my application? Also, does this diagram seem to be accurate?


If you can't answer all the questions, I'd appreciate help with any of the questions you may know.

Thank you for your time and help,

Matt

venom 13

iTrader: (7)

Diagram I plan on using (if accurate)...might be helpful to others doing the swap also:


To begin the process of converting the 1998 F harness to the 1999-2002 F harness start with C1 RED connector. Take notice, the 1998 PCM C1 is RED and the C2 connector is BLUE. The opposite is true for the 1999 –2002 PCM. C1 is BLUE and C2 is RED. If you are performing this “in car,” disconnect the battery to avoid arc welding. Remove the Red and Blue covers and label the aluminum connector housings using a permanent marker with the colors red and blue. Some terminal locations in the connector will need to be perforated with a small sharp pick to allow the terminal to slide into its new location.
The numbered instructions have the color of the connector noted “Red” or “Blue.” The 1998 location & wire color (in Caps) are next then followed by “TO” where it goes on the later model harness. Some circuits will be deleted if present. EGR circuits will be shown for 1999/2000 conversions. The EGR wires can be installed in 2001-2002 applications if desired. Some circuits will fit best if extended. Label them and extend them after swapping is finished. Use the “Check Auto/Manual” Excel file to verify the swap. The colors and circuits reflect the 1998 color code that is sometimes different from the later models.

2. Red C1-3 WHT TO Red C2-45
3. Red C1-45 DK GRN/WHT TO Red C2-34
4. Red C1-34 WHT (auto) or GRAY (manual) TO Blue C1-79
5. Red C1-4 BRN/WHT TO Blue C1-73
6. Red C1-7 YEL TO Red C2-21
7. Red C1-21 PPL TO Red C2-57
8. Red C1-57 DK GRN/WHT TO Red C2-29
9. Blue C2-21 BLK TO Blue C1-40
10. Red C1-72 BLK TO Red C2-1
11. Red C1-76 BLK TO Red C2-40
12. Red C1-40 YEL/BLK TO Red C2-47; for manual trans discard WHT (Note 1)
13. Red C1-47 DK GRN/WHT TO Red C2-17
14. Blue C2-47 PPL/WHT TO Blue C1-69
15. Blue C2-69 DK BLU TO Blue C1-51
16. Blue C2-62 LT GRN TO Blue C1-2 Recommended to Extend
17. Blue C2-2 TAN/WHT TO Blue C1-28
18. Blue C2-28 DK BLU TO Red C2-33 Recommended to Extend
19. Red C1-33 BLK TO Blue C1-36
20. Blue C2-36 LT BLU/WHT TO Red C2-8
21. Blue C2-1 TAN TO Blue C1-25
22. Blue C2-25 BRN TO Blue C1-80
23. Red C1-11 DK BLU TO Red C2-30
24. Red C1-30 GRY/BLK TO Red C2-53, if not present, skip this step.
25. Red C1-53 RED TO Red C2-27
26. Red C1-27 RED/BLK TO Blue C1-43
27. Blue C2-43 GRY TO Blue C1-8
28. Blue C2-8 TAN TO Red C2-25
29. Red C1-25 PNK TO Red C2-63
30. Red C1-63 BLK TO Red C2-57 SPLICE? Or Blue C1-63
31. Blue C2-30 BRN TO Red C2-36 Recommended to Extend
32. Red C1-36 DK BLU TO Red C2-38……………TEST FIRST! 99-02 PCM’S
33. Red C1-12 LT BLU/BLK TO Blue C1-44
34. Red C1-44 YEL TO Blue C1-12
35. Blue C2-12 DK BLU TO Red C2-24
36. Red C1-24 BLK/WHT If present discard it and Blue C2-24
37. Red C1-13 RED/WHT TO Red C2-67
38. Blue C2-67 GRY TO Blue C1-46
39. Blue C2-46 PPL TO Blue C1-66
40. Blue C2-66 GRY TO Blue C1-45
41. Red C1-14 DK GRN TO Red C2-18
42. Red C1-18 YEL/BLK TO Blue C1-37
43. Blue C2-37 DK GRN/WHT TO Red C2-9 Recommended to Extend
44. Blue C2-3 TAN delete
45. Red C1-9 PNK/BLK TO Blue C1-3
46. Red C1-15 BLK/WHT TO Blue C1-76
47. Blue C2-76 BRN TO Blue C1-70
48. Blue C2-70 PNK/BLK TO Blue C1-61
49. Blue C2-61 ORN TO Blue C1-57
50. Blue C2-57 LT GRN/WHT TO Red C2-76
51. Red C1-37 BRN/WHT TO Red C2-46
52. Red C1-22 DK BLUE TO Blue C1-17
53. Red C1-23 LT GRN/BLK TO Blue C1-4
54. Blue C2-4 RED TO Red C2-39
55. Red C1-39 DK GRN/WHT TO Red C2-43
56. Red C1-43 DK GRN TO Blue C1-42
57. Blue C2-42 PPL/WHT TO Blue C1-68
58. Blue C2-68 LT BLU TO Blue C1-11
59. Red C1-31 DK BLU/WHT TO Blue C1-77
60. Red C1-77 PPL TO Blue C1-33
61. Blue C2-33 BRN TO Red C2-2
62. Blue C2-38 LT BLU TO Red C2-7 for 99-00 w/EGR. 01/02 Discard
63. Blue C2-7 RED/BLK TO Red C2-14 Recommended to Extend
64. Blue C2-14 ORG/BLK TO Blue C1-53
65. Red C1-32 ORG/BLK TO Blue C1-34
66. Blue C2-34 GRY TO Red C2-41 for 99/00 w/EGR 01/02 discard
67. Red C1-35 LT GRN TO Red C2-48
68. Red C1-48 YEL TO Red C2-31
69. Blue C2-48 LT GRN TO Red C2-32
70. Blue C2-32 TAN/BLK TO Red C2-42
71. Red C1-42 LT GRN TO Red C2-44 manual transmission only.
72. Blue C2-41 PPL TO Blue C1-65
73. Blue C2-65 GRY TO Blue C1-47
74. Blue C2-31 PPL TO Red C2-4 Recommended to Extend
75. Blue C2-39 RED/BLK TO Red C2-6
76. Blue C2-6 TAN/WHT TO Blue C1-29
77. Red C1-49 PPL TO Red C2-26
78. Blue C2-26 ORN/BLK TO Blue C1-54
79. Blue C2-54 LT GRN/BLK TO Red C2-77
80. Red C1-54 LT BLU/WHT TO Red C2-28
81. Red C1-52 PPL/WHT TO Red C2-66
82. Red C1-55 DK GRN/WHT TO Red C2-50
83. Red C1-56 DK GRN TO Red C2-68
84. Red C1-58 LT BLU TO Red C2-69
85. Red C1-59 BRN/WHT TO Red C2-61
86. Red C1-61 RED TO Blue C1-18
87. Red C1-62 BLK TO Blue C1-41
88. Red C1-71 PPL TO Red C2-20
89. Red C1-75 GRY TO Blue C1-23
90. Blue C2-23 BLK TO Blue C1-60
91. Blue C2-60 BLK TO Blue C1-1
92. Blue C2-5 TAN TO Blue C1-26
93. Blue C2-9 BRN TO Blue C1-55
94. Blue C2-55 LT BLU/BLK TO Red C2-78
95. Blue C2-10 PPL TO Red C2-54
96. Blue C2-13 YEL/BLK TO Red C2-51
97. Blue C2-22 YEL/BLK TO Blue C1-21
98. Blue C2-35 WHT TO Red C2-10
99. Blue C2-49 YEL TO Blue C1-74
100. Blue C2-52 DK GRN TO Red C2-64
101. Blue C2-64 GRY TO Blue C1-48
102. Blue C2-56 LT BLU/WHT TO Red C2-79
103. RED C1-41 BRN/WHT delete, was for low oil light.

NOTE: Red C1-60 BRN, Blue C2-19 PNK, C2-58 PPL and C2-20 ORN remain in the same locations.

The low oil light will not work in the dash of the 1998 car. It can be wired in elsewhere if desired. See omitted wire from RED C1-41 BRN/WHT.
Traction control UART data is not supported in the later PCM.

Additional notes for manuals:
1. The skip shift light will not function with the 1998 cluster. It can be wired in elsewhere if desired. See omitted wire from Red C1-40 WHT.
2. The clutch pedal position sensor needs to be wired in. If not code P0704 will set.

venom 13

iTrader: (7)

Bump.

tjwashow

iTrader: (2)

sounds way to complicated for me even think about answering but good luck on your quest for an answer

DopeFedZ

iTrader: (34)

I used the instructions from the page below.
http://www.mrk-motorsports.com/pages/links.html

You have the right idea about switching the wires around. Just write on each housing red or blue since you need to remove the red and blue plastic covers. No need to remove the screw in the center of the housing. Just use a pick or small flatheqd to remove the red and blue covers.
There are little tabs on each end of the connector.
I suggest you label every single wire before you start removing them with the old location and the new one.

I also would suggest you pull off all the loom and reloom it. Makes things easier to work on and some wires will need to be lengthend. Removing the loom makes it easier to route the wires to the other connector to when needed.

You can get the pcm from mrk too already with the fuel segment swap done.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

There are no instructions on that page. Just links to supposed instructions that go to pictures.

DopeFedZ

iTrader: (34)

Whoops

http://www.mrk-motorsports.com/pages/links.html

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

1) Yes

2) You dont take the screw out, only the colored covers. Use a thin metal object like a screwdriver or knife blade to depress the retainers on the ends and it will slide off exposing the pins. You also have to pop off the gray back covers to pull the pins out. Be careful as the covers like to break

3) Undo about a foot of loom/tape on the harness. When you're done, retape and put the original loom back over the bundles. It would be a good idea to extend a few wires as a few are short. You can pull the harness over and get the repin to work without any permanent modifications, but it is not ideal

4) Looks fine

Good luck