Clayton Andrew

I attached a video, easier to get what I am asking... haha.



edit use 1080p to be clear

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Clayton, I would use a dremel cutting wheel, or some type of cutting wheel, then cut the remainder of that bolt, down flush with the top of the pan. From there, drill through what's left of the welded bolt. (Is there a welded nut underneath that pan?)
Then get a stainless bolt, long enough to slide through the newly created hole (from the bottom), to perform the hold-down function. Put the battery in and place a new stainless nut over the holder-on-er piece.

Clayton Andrew

That seems to be what people are suggesting. I have been under the car and seen the other side, it does stick through as if it was a bolt through a hole, but it has a small square area that is around it which is all welded as part of the car.

it took me a while to realize it was welded as part of that metal since it does from both ends just look like a bolt going through

farmington

iTrader: (14)

If you use a new bolt like recommended above, you will have to have help installing it, you'll need another wrench from the bottom, but how often are you going to remove the battery?

Clayton Andrew

rarely... ever... haha. probably wont need another battery for at least a year, probably 2. lol. even so, poppin her up on some quick ramps and getting someone to hold a wrench isnt that big a deal to me. it beats spending time finding someone to weld. :/

mikey67

Cut it flush, drill and retap the hole.

97camaroguy

iTrader: (5)

Overbore the piece that the rod goes through (the plastic tray) with a drill so it can fit a coupler nut through it. Buy a coupler nut appropriate for the stud .

Then get an appropriate bolt to thread into the coupler nut to tie down the tray. Cheap and quick.

Clayton Andrew

holy... crap... thats genius. I may go with this

97camaroguy

iTrader: (5)

here to help Let me know how it turns out.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

I just re-did mine. There was originally a bolt in that hole. It's the upper right one....



Mine stripped the nut insert on the body. It's the left/rusty hole, where your bolt is snapped....



I took a 1/4-20 x 4" bolt, with SAE washer and fed it up from the bottom. The 1/4-20 bolt is skinny enough to fit through the existing hole. You will, obviously, have to get some penetrating lube and vise grips, and remove the remainder of your old bolt.

Then I put a 1/4-20 nut on the bolt and tightened it down. To allow the coolant tank/battery tray to sit flat, I clearanced the bottom of the tray where my new 1/4-20 nut is. Lastly install the tray, add the battery and hold down clamp, and put another SAE washer and 1/4-20 nut on the 'stud/bolt'. Tighten it and you are done! I cut the 4" bolt/stud down some for aesthetics.

I never took pics of the stud/etc. If you can't visualize that, I'll try and draw a sketch or snap some photos later this week. Good luck!

White6SpdZ28

iTrader: (6)

It's welded? That's weird cause I had to replace my tray this past weekend and mine is bolted down and the bolt threads into a hole on that pan.

Clayton Andrew

yes, it was welded. Forgot to reply back w results. But since the metal was so old I was able to break off the bolt area and leave a square hole thru the metal. I actually used a really nice construction-level epoxy that I got from my father (chief engineer for hilton hotel, so he usually has some cool stuff haha) and put it inside the hole of the Tray. I then found a long enough bolt and mid-dry of the epoxy, bolted her down into the tray, the epoxy basically turns hard as concrete, so now I have a perfectly threaded area on the tray for the bolt, I can remove it/reinstall the bolt at any time and itll bolt right back in. Pretty nifty actually. I am very pleased and it doesnt require a nut on the bottom (aka someone else holding that sucker as someone up top bolts it in). Passed inspection and Im happy took me zero dollars.

cbailey

Its just a stuck bolt man not welded. Pb blaster- tap it with a hammer, let it sit, pb it again, tap it medium force while turning with some vise grips on there tight, and go left and right till it loosens then just back it out and put a new ( gm part number 11515984) 8 x 1.25 x 75 bolt.

I had the same problem, I soaked it with pb, whacked it a few times and let it sit over night and it came right out. I had worse corrosion than you do too, sanded it down, masked the engine bay down and re-sprayed the area with primer and duplicolor pewter.